Quantcast
Jump to content

Mule 3010 parking brake switch


Tincup
 Share

Recommended Posts

Where is this switch located? Is it under the rubber boot protecting the brake mechanism?

I have an '05 3010 and the parking brake light and high water temperature light don't come on. However, the radiator fan runs and it's powered by the same switch that powers the light. I don't know if I have bad bulbs or what. I can find no easy way to remove the bulbs to check them.

Any pointers?

Thanks for your time.

Tincup

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Here's an update. The water temperature light bulb is fine and won't come on until the temp is above 105F, I have no way of easily checking the water temperature, I'll wait until summer in the SoCal desert and check it. The parking brake light switch is on the brake handle, my problem was simply a dirty contact on the switch. I burnished the contact point and applied a small dab of No-Ox and it's working fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coker737,

OK, here's the real deal :) ! After reading the shop manual and looking at the schematic, I don't see how the lights would come on momentarily when you start the rig. There is no ground offered to the switches to turn on the light, none that I can see in the schematic. Also, the temp light comes on between 226F and 237F, not 110F, it was 110C DUH :wacko: my bad.

Instead of doing my reading in the morning after my first cup of coffee, I should wait until later in the day after I've had my first cold adult beverage :D !

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By dwall662
      My  problem is that when the temperature dips under 50 degrees, my Coleman 550 acts like the battery is dead and no electrical activity at all. The battery is at full charge. It only has 15 hours on it and the same thing happened last winter. Above 50 degrees, starts every time.  Very frustrating needless to say.  Anyone else experience this problem.  I bought it at Tractor supply and they are not a service center and don't know who works on them in the area.
    • By Earthscum
      Hi, I'm a mechanic and am at a loss for a customer's 2021 UT400. This thing only got used for the end of the summer, only has 3.3 hours on it.
      So far I've found:
      No start - starter switch works, relay in relay/fuse box clicks. Solenoid is operating as it should, no signal to  solenoid to start. Starts and runs when I hard-jump the solenoid.
      No F or R lights on dash - N lights up, and goes off when shifted into either gear
      No brake lights - tested switch, it works as it should
      No turn signals
      Parking brake light is on - switch is working correctly, doesn't change status
       
      All connectors are secured, no wires look out of place. I have an incredible dislike for HiSun equipment. Every one I've dealt with has been full of gremlins. Has anyone else had any issues like this? Would this be something wrong with the dash? Or the relay/fuse box? or both? I don't want to contact Coleman and have them send a bunch of stuff that won't fix it, especially with how long electronic stuff takes to get these days. The last warranty I did for them was a go-kart that shelled the drive shaft bearings and it took 4 months for them to send us the parts.
      Any help or knowledge would be much appreciated!
    • By Alex
      Its maker has affectionately dubbed it Teslaris, for obvious reasons.
      The Polaris RZR RS1 UTV has a one-liter, two-cylinder engine that from the factory has around 100 horsepower, making the 1,383-pound (627-kilogram) UTV very quick. But there’s always room for more power in one of these vehicles, and instead of fettling with its engine, one dune vehicle aficionado decided to swap in the rear drive motor out of a Tesla Model 3 / Model Y.
      We don’t know how many of the battery modules the put in the vehicle, but it doesn’t appear to be much heavier than stock and it goes up sand dunes with remarkable ease. Depending on which version of Model 3 was the motor donor, the drive unit could have either 261 or 325 horsepower, as long as the battery pack can supply enough wattage and voltage.
      Judging by how easily it flies up the steep sand dune, almost lifting the front wheels off the ground under harder acceleration, it’s safe to say it looks like a real hoot. The steep grade you see it tackling in the video uploaded by the electric UTV’s creator, Ron Cobbley, is located in the St. Anthony, Idaho sand dunes.
      We found more videos on vehicle’s official Instagram account and aside from how interesting it is to see an electric powertrain in an application like this (and how it changes the vehicle), we also noticed that you really hear the tires on the sand more. Usually, this sound is drowned out by the engine.

      The sound’s tone and pitch probably change with speed, giving the driver audible information to help him or her gauge their speed. You don’t really get this in a road-going EV driven on tarmac, which is why it’s trickier to drive an EV quickly - specifically because you have no way of knowing how fast you’re going just by ear.
      Source: https://insideevs.com/news/559789/polaris-utv-tesla-motor-dunes/
    • By Rick McGill
      I thought the problem was electrical but I just found this in the oil filler tube. Does anyone recognize the part? I know I'll have to tear down the whole engine, and maybe I'll find the rest of it in there. Something beg enough to seize up the engine. That was the problem I was trying to diagnose.... 'Cause it's locked up. 
      Thanks in advance.
      Rick
       

       

       
       
    • eManualOnline
    • By Rangerbill
      I'm trying yo do a break up grade for my '13 Polaris 500 Ranger.
  • Gallery Images


×
×
  • Create New...