Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

2010 Redline Revolt...

The Motor and Turbo are freshly built with approx 30-40 hours

Turbo Smart Manual Boost Controller

New Primary Comet Clutch

Polished Intercooler w/ 6" Intercooler Fan

Polished Oil cooler w/ 6" oil cooler fan

Brand new Odyssey Battery

Fox Shocks

Aftermarket sway bar

5 point Harness

The larger 12" radiator fan

Window Nets

RPM gauge, Boost gauge, Oil Pressure gauge, Water temp gauge, Fuel gauge and Speedo gauge

Brand new Steering box

Heim joints upgraded

Custom Belt guard

Crankcase Overflow Can w/ filter

Gearbox Overflow can w/ filter

Custom 6" LED Baja Lights in front

Rigid 10” LED Lightbar

6” LED front bumper light

Skat-trak Extreme's in the Rear

Skat -trak 's in the Front

Custom front bumper

Redline Rear bumper

Has a Custom wrap

Donalson (dual) Filter system & additional Uni filter and Outerwear

Custom steering wheel

Wired for Dual Tribal whips

Extra's include:

(Brand New) Extra Redline F & R Gearbox/transmission

2 New Extra stock front rims

1 new Stock Rear Rim

Extra Primary clutch

Complete Clutch Weight set for tuning

Redline Clutch removal tool

Extra Steering box

4 New Carlisle Heavy duty Belts

3 Used Redline belts for back ups

1 new extra Radius rod

1 New extra Tie Rod

Multiple extra used Heim joints

1 New extra Shift Cable

1 New extra Throttle Cable

1 New extra Weber oil Filter

Extra used stock muffler

Stock steering wheel

1 extra used Fuel Injector rail

1 extra NEW complete (dual) Donalson Filter set

Complete factory manual

Complete Weber engine rebuild manual

$12,500

Just let me know if you are interested. 405-471-4828

post-1844-0-57360200-1370180476_thumb.jpg

post-1844-0-52192900-1370180486_thumb.jpg

post-1844-0-49754700-1370754064_thumb.jpg

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Rschrem
      Hi, my 2010 Hisun will crannk but comes to a stop and only clicks.  It has new battery and solinoid. Battery connections all seem good. Any ideas what the problem is? 
    • By Xov
      Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro.  Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more.  There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model.  Hope this will help others as they research.
      Intended Use Cases
      Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property.  The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion.  Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus.  Experiences So Far
      Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing.  The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame.  I expect a little better QC.
      I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage.  It isn't quiet; it's silent.  I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller.  The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4.  Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent).  The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque.  It feels very powerful.  All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
      The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard.  Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more.  Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
      Power steering is nice, but vague.  Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input.  Plan early and plan often.
      In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart.  I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done.  After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th. 
      Until next time...


    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo 700 MSU. The machine started burning oil all of a sudden. One day fine-- next morning burning oil. Looking for advice. Do I pull the engine to inspect the top end or can it be done with the engine in place? Pro? Cons?
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated in advance.
      Chile
       
    • By Prepper
      I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines.  There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil.  My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage).  While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure.  Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine.  Could they both be right ???
      Any thoughts ?
       
×
×
  • Create New...