Quantcast
Jump to content

wiring problems


pete42

Recommended Posts

Thanks plumber found out mine it updated to the 09 wiring harness so far I have most engine relays getting power fuses good but the wire for starter silinoid not sure the only wire there is yellow with a round connection not push on type also my new ecu is sparking if touches frame my fuel pump not coming on on key switch 4 wires big red wire hot small red white stripe hot purple wire not hot white wire not hot?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Purchased this new harness jmcmotors i have checked for polarity on fuse relay panel 4 out of 6 fuses don't have polarity (fan fuel ignition guages) in 2009 Manuel it shows 7 fuses in panel not 6 but this harness has 6 1 relay has no polarity (fan)the gages don't cycle no power fuel pump no power starter silinoid? I don't know if this harness will work

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By LongSun
      I can not find it on the board, so I'm afraid I'm the only cheapo on the forum.
      What is the fuel economy of the Hisun HS590? (I guess it is the same as the HS550)
      I count in liter per 100 km, but if you use MPG it's okay with me, but please tell if you use the US or UK MPG!
    • By TomW
      I had a problem 6-8 mo ago when the unit would not start . But you could see power on the dash. The starter solenoid was replaced and it has been fine until yesterday. When I started it up I noticed a high pitched noise coming from under the front. Like a alarmbuzz ..It seemed to drive fine so I went ahead and used it off and on for a hour or so . The noise would not go away . I parked it in the shed and lifted the hood . It seemed to be coming from the battery compartment ( where the new starter solenoid is) I jiggled the connections and the noise changed timbre and then the machine went dead. No power at all . No lights . When you cross the two poles on the starter solenoid ( previously last year it would start and run ) nothing. Checked the battery and it is fully charged . I checked the fuses inside the battery box and they all looked good  but I must be missing something. Anyone have a clue what I need to do next to R&R. The closest repair place is 2 hours away in Mississippi . Any help would be appreciated.
    • By Alien10
      I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 purchased in January 2022 that runs and operates pretty well.  65 hours on it so far.   It is a work vehicle for my 10 hilly acres with two 1 acre woods and 5 acres of "lawn".  The rest is under a lake. 
      My parking brake does not seem to have any grip.  It worked when new but after a month or so, it is just almost useless.     I press the parking brake pedal hard until it stops. Still, it won't hold even on slight inclines.   I don't see the caliper move as I press the brake pedal down.  There seems to be plenty of pad left on it and the rotor is shiny as if it is rubbing a little when applied, but not enough to stop it from rolling. 
      Any thoughts on possible causes? 
       
    • By NDV45
      I have  2008 Cub Cadet Volunteer Tracker.  Was running fine, parked and next morning electric fuel pump inop.  Checked voltage had 4.2 volts.  Swapped relays in fuse box, checked all fuses (good) and still low voltage.   Does the ECU control the voltage to the fuel pump or which relay controls the voltage to the pump?
      Have checked all wiring and not found any place it could be shorted (not saying I may have missed something). I am at a loss.  Need Help Please.
×
×
  • Create New...