Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi I have a 2008 Joyner Renegade that died and will not re start It had been sitting for about 2 months while I waited for a new rear diff and then finally found time to work on it. It started OK after I filled it with gas and charged the battery. It started and ran for about 5 minutes and died I pulled the outlet line off the fuel pump and am getting lots of fuel the engine It has electrical power to all circuits as near as I can tell. Any schematics I have found are microscopic and when you expand them they are written in Chinese. I found one fuse box at the right front frame Who knows what the fuses are for They are not identified on the panel or cover. I replaced one fuse and all others were good I found some fuses and 3 relays tied up behind the battery Switched relays around and made no difference. There is a huge 40 amp fuse in line I cleaned the corrosion off the terminals on it. I still have the same issue It is cranking over, has fuel delivery to the engine but is not firing

Is there another relay/fuse panel I am missing? Does the system use a TPS and or crankshaft position sensor that could be the culprit?

Does anyone know of an on line service manual for this beast

Thanks for any assistance

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Did you check the coils with a spark tester? I just worked on a buggy that would start and only run a few minutes and then die. Chased the ghosts for weeks. Turned out it had a weak coil and it would spark pretty good on the first crank then the spark became weak or intermittent and would die. New coil and it runs fine. 

  • 4 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I have a 2007 Joyner 1100 sand viper and  before it even get's to where the thermostat opens up the oil pressure get's so low I have to shut it down. What could fix this ? I thought about adding an oil cooler with fan, thicker oil, or removing the thermostat. Any advice?
    • By nrggaragebuilds
      2004 250DL DIRT DEVIL. Hey y’all, I already know this is a long shot. But I am looking for a the “prick gear” assembly that makes reverse work for my external reverse gearbox. OEM PN D250.08.103 and its assembly. I bought the kart as a basket case, but I saw that the reverse box was present so I was optimistic.  Upon starting working on the buggy I realized there was a block off plate in plate of there the normal gear would be. If my understanding is correct that means the transmission no longer has reverse gear. I figured it’s just a standard bevel gear and I could probably find a gear to make work, but I don’t want to spend the time making all the other housing parts to shim the gear perfectly. Has anyone spare parts, or figured out an aftermarket solution from McMaster? I already know it’ll be a challenge to get this box to be happy again, but figured I would ask  
    • By mrpro
      I got the fronts adjusted.  I'm trying to raise the ride height in the rear, but my spanner wrench keeps slipping.  Is there an easier better way?  It's like there's too much pressure working against me to be able to twist the height adjusters.  How can I relieve that tension to make them easier to turn?  
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Silent3923
      Been waiting over a month and a half for a transmission from bobcat,  they claim the polaris transmission is different.   Can anyone verify that???
×
×
  • Create New...