Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok thank you. Have another question you might could help me with. I bought a 25$ adjustable fuel pressure gauge to swap mine out with because it wouldn't hold but 20psi and wound send the rest to the tank. I put this new one on and it wouldn't really adjust or hold the same constant pressure it with between 60 or 80 then will just drop to 10 or 20. Would anything else cause this or just another bad regulator?

Sent from my VS880PP using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I have used Team Joyner and now Joyner USA so i have been selling parts for about 15 years.I have found that you can get a better price from [email protected]. Eric is a good guy and will almost always have a better price.Forget the 5% lower price.That just sales talk! Eric will give you the best price that what i have found.Are prices our vary good to and we only sell Chery Parts.We are working with China on some outer c/v joints.So you can replace just the outer joint.Not the Up grade kit.For some its going to work out better for a lot less money.They Up grade is good but if you don't want to invest 600 dollors

On a 3,500 Joyner 600.00 is a lot of money.The outer joint sell for 105.ea or a pair for 200.00

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Most of the times, the regulator was set up wrong. The lines should be on correct order. Mine regulator (ebay 20€) worked fine for 2 years.

fuel cell - line - t-adapter to fuel rail - regulator - line to fuel cell

Gesendet von meinem SM-G920F mit Tapatalk

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By HISUN Sector 750 EPS Failu
      It looks bad, but the HISUN (Axis) 500 at work has had "regular" oil in it for 900 hours now.  I discovered it when I googled what my Sector 750 uses, it being about time for the first oil change.  This is the only side by side that the mechanic at work takes care of, and he's the type of person who knows it all.  He would never check an owners manual or search something online. 
      The problem with someone who knows it all is all you get is what he knows.  
      Being on a first-name basis with the HISUN Tech Team, I've asked them what the consequences might be.  I'm concerned that the clutch may be permanently damaged.
      Anyone had this experience?
    • By GNFO
      Wanted to do this for a while and finally did it. I did the conversion of my Sector E1 (mine is Axis branded, but same as Hisun) over to lithium two years ago and have been very pleased with the night and day improvement in performance.
      With the big battery bank, I always thought I could use that battery resource to power plug-in tools when I'm too far away from the house.  I finally bought a 48V DC to 120V AC inverter (2500W capacity) and installed it.  I ran wire directly from the 48V batteries down through the axle tunnel to the shallow "hood" storage area in the front.  I loosely covered the open areas to prevent splashes from underneath, but left the drain paths clear, and added a little foam tape to the edges of the access panel to help steer any water to the drain holes that might come in through the top.  I had to position it to make sure it fit under the panel, and had to add a spacer in one spot because of the depression in the space under the front left of the picture.  Turned it on, and it all works perfectly!  I ran my electric hedge trimmer to clear some bushes as a test with no problems.  The 2500W should allow it to handle anything I would normally run off a standard 15A outlet in my home, including other power tools.  It felt pretty neat to park in the middle of nowhere and just plug my equipment in and start working.  For my 6 acres the capacity from the batteries should be just fine.  I could always add more if I really wanted to, but I've never gone below 75% anyway even after a bunch of runs with firewood, so I think it will be just fine.
      For those who are curious, the Sector E1 could definitely accommodate an even larger AC inverter and I briefly considered a 6000W one, but a) they are correspondingly more expensive and I don't think I'll need to run more than a couple items at a time, and b) higher power inverters are also bigger, and I don't think the front space will work with anything much larger without significant modification. That said, if you really needed to run a bigger load, I'm sure you could come up with a way to mount it (modify the front space or add a waterproof enclosure in some of the empty battery spaces left by going from 8 Discover batteries down to 4 LiFePO4 batteries.) 
        
    • By FGT
      QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.

      EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.


    • By Challenger750HP
      I have a 2017 Cub Cadet Challenger 750 and I have been watching videos on the top end rebuild of the same engine. So, I have one question about it and I’m not sure if someone could help or not. I’m having trouble getting mine to fire over. Could anyone explain how to set the timing on both the flywheel and the cam? I think I may be setting the cam in an incorrect direction. When I put my foot on the brake to start the engine turns over and I have spark and fuel but I cannot get it to fire. The timing chain was off at first and I reinstalled it and tightened it with the tensioner and everything looks good but I cannot figure out how to set the timing perfectly to make it start up. Do you have any suggestions? Or any thoughts on what’s stopping it from firing up? I appreciate all of your help in advance!!
    • By Butcher6868
      I have a Coleman ut400, when I use the winch to raise the plow the battery light comes on, once I let off the switch the light goes off. Does anyone know if that’s normal?
×
×
  • Create New...