2009 Joyner Trooper 5 Speed Transmission Shaft Size
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By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
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By rdc
Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
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By mrpro
My 2022 Coleman/Hisun UTV 400 steering shaft has a couple of U-joints and angles to help get it down from the steering column to the rack. Today, my son who drives it most came in and said that it wouldn't steer and that he could turn the steering wheel but it doesn't turn the wheels I investigated and noticed that the bolt that clamps down the upper part of the steering shaft onto the lower one before the first u-joint in the steering shaft had fallen out. We haven't been able to find it, so I wanted to see what size and thread, bolt I should get to fix it?
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By Outlaw Redneck
Hello all. I have a 2005 Joyner sand spider 650 with the dreaded broken output shaft on the transmission. I got ahold of a 2007 joyner commando 650 for cheap that had a bad motor but a good transmission. I got it because everything i read said that the transmission would work but it seems that it will not. Due to the commando being 4x4 it has a selectable locker and a small ring gear using a "idler" gear to turn the ring gear which make the output spin the wrong direction. Is there any way that I can make this thing work? I really dont want a commando, I like the buggy but if the trans wont work then I can only put my motor in the commando. Any help would be appreciated. I have the ring gear from the original trans but the shaft is broken and the shaft from the commando wont fit the ring gear it doesn't appear.
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By Andy Dickerson
So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines.
I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there.
I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.
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