U.S. Probes Off-Road Vehicles After a String of Accidents
-
Popular Now
-
-
Similar Topics
-
By Big Red Dog
Bought my 2009 Yamaha Rhino, (fuel injected of course), recently from the original owner. Only had 500 miles and 70hrs. Starts reliably, however, it will not idle but about 50% of the time. Also, when driving slow in low or high, that is to say, relatively low rpms and below about 10 mph, it bucks and almost wants to die..... not smooth at all. However, at speed (say 12-15 mph or more) it runs very well, like it should. Any ideas?
-
By Stubbsmobile
Hey yall,
Helping a friend out. he purchased a 2020 massimo buck 400 utv. has about 100 hours on it. after starting the engine, shifter in low, it does fine. when shifted to high gear, most of the time it acts like its not in gear completely, and it pops out and grinds bad. when you can get it in high gear, it acts like something is binding and it wont hardley roll before it jumps out of gear and makes that grinding noise. almost like trying to dr4ive a standard transmission car and start off in 3rd or 4th gear.
I have been on this site for several hours now, and totally understand the overall feeling about massimo utv. I can only imagine trying to find transmission parts when other members cant even find a fuel filter, lol.
A new transmission is (part#47516) $1159.99 plus tax and freight.
anyone have any other ideas or suggestions on what is causing the noise in high gear and not wanting to move?
Thanks ,
Chris
-
By Razorair
New to this site I just got this 2014 Coleman UTV 700 High Temp Light on from the start cold I haven't really ohm checked the sensors although they are all new but I have done lots of work on the engine I've replace the head gasket, wet clutch rebuilt the primary clutch and cleaned the secondary clutch with a new belt plus a bunch of other stuff I just can't figure out this high temp light that is on at start and has never been off. I have bled the air multiple times. I also wired a switch for the fan to run it most of the time due to others that have suggested this. It is running good the radiator is getting warm but really haven't ran it enough to make sure it's not getting too hot but I just want the light to work as it's suppose to. I would really like to install a true temp gauge if anybody could help with doing that.
-
By Tommy2bits
Just bought a brand new 2022 (NOS) Sector E1 with Lithium upgrade. (Single 135ah/200amp continuous). I've climbed a moderate hill in my woods probably 20 times since buying it. Today It won't climb it unless I am in Low. In High it almost makes it and then completely dies and I have to roll back down the hill. In Mid range (Max Range) I can't get 2 feet up the hill and the power output in only 100 amps, I have climbed this hill in every speed before many times. I put it on the trailer tonight and it wouldn't even get on the dang trailer in mid range. Torque is gone. That being said, when I am just cruising around in Midrange, it runs absolutely perfect with plenty of power. The only thing I did was charge it up, that is all. I charged to 100% using the charger that came with the battery. Before you think the BMS is shutting down due to overcharge protection, remember I am going UP hill so there is no regeneration AND I have done it before at 100% charge AND another big problem is that after 1 mile it is already down to 85% so it's not over charging and why is the battery draining so fast when I got 27 miles before. Battery output is fine in Low it pulls 200 amp up the hill just like normal so that doesn't point to the battery being the issue. All the individual cells on the battery are in line, so there is no dead cell either. I am tech savvy but to toward electric motors and I tried to cover all my bases. Please don't tell me basics like torque is reduced in High and Mid. The only thing I can think of is that I smelled something when I took my first drive today and I thought it was the Ebrake dragging but there was the correct amount of play in the cable and I jacked up the rear wheels and they spin freely. maybe something burned out in the motor, I do not knowm still runs great, we'll see if I have any trouble on the hills at the lake house this weekend. Maybe this is "Normal" and the settings were off before and was giving equal torque for whatever reason instead of 50% in Mid and 70% in High like the manual says....
For reference....this is it not even able to get on the trailer in mid range
-
By Bigmountainrider
Hi Team,
I'm new to the Forum, and I'm looking for your help. I have a 2009 Yamaha Rhino 700 that has stopped consistently charging. Here are the specs and Info I can provide, the Stator and Regulator are new. The Stator does not have continuity to ground on all 3 wires at the engine bay plug. The stator puts out 15-17AC/V at Idle and 38-39AC/V at 2000rpm at both the engine bay plug and the regulator plug. The Battery regulator plug has Battery DC Voltage, when Running the regulator puts out Charging voltage 13.4-15V. I have upgraded/added ground wires from the primary battery to the engine block, from the stock ground wire bolt on the engine to the Chassis and from the secondary battery to the regulator grounding bolt/ground wire. Now the symptoms are it Charges when first started and will continue to charge while driving or at high idle until the machine returns to idle- it will not charge after that, this includes any RPM. If your shut the machine off and restart the process restarts -it will charge until returned to idle. The Machine has and RM Stator and Regulator and a Kimpex Flywheel. The last time it was driven it had an overheating event- unrelated to charging I think, but worth the mention.
Any thoughts would be helpful, I have the factory Regulator- it was working at the time of replacement- when swapped the same issues occur.
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.