I have a Q-Link (Rhino clone) and the fuel injector won't open up and spray. The fuel pump is brand-new and kicks on and primes to the injector but nothing comes out.
I've cleaned and dielectric greased the electrical plug and the ECU plugs but no change. not sure where to go from here. Any help?
Hi new to the Joyner trooper family just purchased a 2008 trooper, however the speedometer , coolant temp and voltmeter are not working I was hoping it was a continuity or ground issue but the copper is testing good, it appears the voltmeter is bad as my fluke works off the plug-in behind the gauge, tested the water temp sensor have 5 volts arriving, and approximately 3000 ohms on sensor cold no idea what I should get. As far as the speedometer have no idea how to test again copper seems to have good continuity. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Dwight
I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans. The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again. I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?
Idle problems - - - - http://www.utvboard.com/index.php?s=&s...post&p=4460
Another idle problem was solved by undoing the wire that was wrapped around the plug wire for an hour meter. http://www.utvboard.com/findpost-t1524-p5814.html
Over heating problems, -- From Snowman -- One other problem is they will air lock. To get all the air out of the system you need to disconnect the small water line (about 1/4 inch) that starts around the thermostat housing and goes into a T with two larger hoses, drivers side. You need to remove the hose at the T and hold it in the air above the motor while holding your finger over the hose barb to keep the coolant in. Now you need to get some one to top off the rad. This sounds like your biggest problem to me. (http://www.utvboard.com/topic/1733-t2-issues/page__view__findpost__p__6993)