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By Stan Morton
My 2018 XG-850-SL starter died yesterday. The old part number from Kubota is E7153-11732 which has been superceed by part # EG881-63010. I am looking for an aftermarket starter because the Kubota retail price for the starter starts at $550 and upwards toward $850. If anyone has gone down this road before and has found an aftermarket starter ~ please share with me. We own a ranch and this thing is used every single day and is sorely missed when it is down for maintenance. Kind Regards, ~ Stan
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By Nickie Watts
I have a Hisun Strike 1000 I have been trying to get going, it has only 39 hours on it, so I can only assume it has been sitting for a long time.
The issue is it is losing spark to both coils after 20-30 seconds of running, doesn't matter if it's WOT or Idle, it will shut down. What sends signal to the coils to fire? It has a crank sensor, I was thinking a CDI box, but I have not found one of those on the machine.
The rear end was busted on it when I got it, So I ordered a new one and installed it only to run into this problem. I can only imagine the problem has happened over it sitting so long and not being driven.
I originally thought it was a fuel problem, so I checked the injectors, throttle body, o2 sensors. Discovered the heating element in one of the o2 sensors was bad, so ordered both and also replaced both injectors just to be sure, then discovered it is only losing spark.
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By rmissildine
Hello all. I'm new to the forum and have read all the posts I could find concerning the 550 Mule, so far no one with my problem. So, I'll give it a go and hopefully get an answer.
I got this mule about three years ago, had to do some minor repairs, and it's been a great machine. Last fall, I noticed an oil leak coming from the left side around the crankcase cover. I was able to slow the leak considerably, but it still leaked. I never had the time to tear it down due to work. I retire in March of this year and decided to fix it with a new cover gasket. I ordered a new gasket and crankshaft seal and while waiting for them to arrive, I began the tear down and cleaning of the mating surfaces. Got the seal and gasket installed and the cover back on and torqued. Decided to crank it up and let it idle a bit to check for any oil leaks before I put the converters back on. Fired right up, let it idle for about 10 minutes, no leaks. I'm happy at this point...
Next day, installed the inside converter cover, new belt and converters, not the outside cover though. I wanted to see how the new belt was going to work out. I still had the rear end jacked up so it wouldn't move. Guess what, it wouldn't start up. Cranked over like always, just wouldn't start... Now I'm bummed. So I start checking gas, spark and everything is good. Even tried a squirt of starting fluid, and it did fire a couple of times but no start. Now I'm even more bummed. Time for a break.
Now I've worked on everything from small engines to tractors and have never had this problem. After a little thought I decided to run a compression test. The repair manual lists 115 - 178 psi as the correct range, I had 30 psi!!!!! What in the world happened over night. I did spray a light oil into the cylinder and it came up to about 60 psi but that was all I could get. I checked the valve clearances, their good.
Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can point me in the right direction cause I really like this little machine.
Thanks for your help,
Roger
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By AJ Clapp
I have a 2017 Vector 500 4x4 with electronic front locking diff. Used it about 30 miles ago, and the front axle won’t unlock. This makes steering very difficult and I’m sure it’s not good on front components either. Checked the connector and the wire and switch. Everything *looks* fine. Before I go digging into diff was wondering if anyone else experienced this. Indicator on dash shows an X indicating locked axle. 4x4 indicator for front axle just flashes. Can’t tell if I’m actually in four wheel drive. This thing is so underpowered it would t spin wheels anyway…
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By Greg Kilgore
We all know summer is hot inside the cabs of our SXS. So I've rigged up a couple of fans to help cool down the cab.
I didn't want to drill the fan's "support rails" into the ROPS (Roll Over Protection System), aka roll bars. So I used water clamps to hold them in place.
I just need to replace the wires I ran with bigger gauge. Then finish the wiring to switches, relays, and battery. But the hardest part. The actual mounting of the fans is complete. Also just in case anyone plans on doing this. I may have to only use 1 fan in the middle instead on 2. Due the the draw on the battery.
The fans are 12", 12V 80W. So I'm figured they were 6.7 amps apiece. Used the WAVe formula to get unknown values Watts=Amps*Volts then solve for unknown. I know the watts and volts from sticker on fan. So just used above formula to get amps. So a 7 amp fuse should be OK and a 10 amp fuse will be good.
So pulling 14 amps from the battery all day may be too much for the charging system to keep up with. And I haven't even installed the radio yet. So I will have to test and let you know.
See pics below.
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