Hunterworks Wins Durhamtown UTV Championship
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By Robert Mack
I have a Kubota RTV900 that I am having issues with......it will start up, run about 10-15 seconds then die......turn the key off and wait a few minutes, and the same thing happens. I have gone through all the steps listed to bleed and prime the pump even though I did not run out of fuel....and I cracked the lines on the injector pump and watched fuel pump out as I crank it, so I am not convinced that it is a fuel injector issue......is there a relay that could be causing this? What is the starter timer relay that people have mentioned and what does it do?
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By malenurse13
We just bought a used 2017 American Landmaster TW450. No hour meter that I can find, so not sure exactly how much it has been used.
The first 2 days we had it, the starter was a little sketchy, but it started after 2-3 tries. Sometimes when turning the key, we would hear a loud metal "clink" sound. Like the starter made contact, but didn't have enough power to turn.
THIS MORNING... Turning the key, we hear a single click sound. That's it. Even with a new battery, the starter is still doing the same thing. Both batteries (old and new) were reading 12.8 volts on volt meter. So I'm wondering what else could be going on? Any ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated...
Thank you!
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By SteveMO
Folks:
I live on 11 acres that demands a bit of maintenance, and co-own a large farm a couple of hours away that I hunt on (professionals do the farming). My mowing/brush control/trail maintenance duties are handled by a 57" rough cut mower (Kunz brand), and I also drag logs and pull sprayers and seeders for food plots and such.
I've been using a pair of ATV's for decades to handle this work - a 750 for when I need real power (or need both machines at the same time when I have help) and a 500 cc with fixed rear axle for most duties.
Some of the places I need to work are VERY rough, and very three-dimensional, with steep ups and downs and some side-hilling I've learned the hard way not to try with my independent rear suspension 750, but handle with ease with my fixed rear suspension 500.
I've decided I want to sell the 750 and replace it with a UTV that I hope to use as my main workhorse. If anyone makes a working UTV that fits my specs that's what I'm gonna do. This is an all-work machine, I don't do any recreational riding so don't care about things like top speed.
So looking for advice on what models might handle what I'm looking for:
Gotta have:
2 passenger (1 row)
selectable 4wd
Power steering
Selectable gearing (not CVT)
Power-assisted dump bed
Engine cooling adequate for all-day slow-speed work in the summertime. Like towing a 700lb mower at 4mph all day in 100° weather)
Beefy tow rating, including tonque weight. Nobody ever mentions tongue weight because that exposes how crappy independent rear suspension is for towing safely in rough terrain.
Really want:
Selectable locking diff
Fixed rear axle (Isolates tongue weight from rear suspension. Holds more stable & consistent center of gravity than IRS over side-slopes and other complex terrain, and keeps geometry and suspension response consistent over wide range of tongue-weight of towed loads)
Slow speed cruise control (Factory option or aftermarket, covering at least 4mph - 10mph. For calibrated spraying and controlled mowing speed.
Muffler designed for quiet operation for comfortable all-day use, and to minimize disturbance for getting to hunting grounds. Not concerned about normal motor noise, but don't want something specifically piped to "sound fun".
Any advice on brands or models I'm most likely to have luck with?
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By TomW
I was driving the UTV the other day when it simply died. I was using the sprayer which might have drained the 3 year old battery and the stator didn't recharge it. I towed it to my shop and charged the battery . The next morning it cranked first time and I drove it home . I parked it and turned it off . I then tried to crank it and it would only make a weak click noise . I changed the battery and the voltage regulator but it would still only click. I noticed on the digital display that the reverse light was illuminated and would stay illuminated no matter what gear I selected . If I put it in low that light would light but the reverse light stayed on . Same thing for neutral . I shorted the two poles on the starter solenoid with the key on and it cranked up easily and idled fine. You could put it in reverse and it would move backwards and you could put it in low and it would drive forward. The entire time the reverse light stayed on . I checked the fuses and they all looked good . So lets say I get a new started solenoid . If I replace it and it now starts with the key what is the issue with the reverse light . Is it harmful? What else needs to be done to correct ? Any ideas out there.
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By Dave egger
Hello. I need some help. I have a 2015 Polaris rzr 1000. I was told the clutch was bad so I put a new one in with a new belt and having the same problem. It won’t go over 55 mph and it takes forever to get to that speed. It also will not go over 6600rpm and it also takes forever to get there also. I’ve taking it to the dealership and had them look at it and they said they can’t find the problem. I’m at a loss. Has no check engine light at all. If someone could give me some ideas or has had this problem it would be much appreciated. Thank you Dave.
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