New Billet Spare Tire Carrier from MachineTrix
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By Cody Brown
Not sure how better to describe it other than no lights, head lights, dash lights, no cycling of fuel pump when the key is turned, no starter activity, etc. checked all fuses in the fuse box under the driver seat (anyone know of any other fuses I might have missed?). Hooked starter up directly to the battery for a split second and it cycled fine. Same with the radiator fan. This machine was running fine during a ride, and my son hit a bump, it died, and never came back.
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By Dan_Lockwood
If you pay any attention to your UT400, you have probably noticed that the right front wheel tips in at the top a LOT. The left fronts seem to be about right from what I've seen. I look at them all when I'm at different stores just to see if they're all that way, and yes, they all seem to be that way.
There "should" be adjustments on either the ball joints or the inner pivot points, but these are solid, not way to adjust them.
I have the UT400 up on my 2-post lift and the right spindle seems to be around 3-deg tipped in at the top and the left spindle is about straight or maybe half a degree tipped in. This is at full suspension drop, not ride height. I took the shocks off and rotated the spindles from bottom travel to full max up travel, way more than the shocks will allow. The higher the spindle lift, the more tip in there is on both spindles. This is true because of the unequal upper and lower A-arms. It's just the nature of of the dual A-arms and them being unequal in length.
I took the inner pivot 8mm bolts out and inserted a lot smaller 1/4" bolts and pushed the lower A-arm inward and the angle on the spindle decreased. I then took the top inner bolts out and did the same thing, but pulled out instead. This got the spindle equal to angle of camber on the left side. I used the offset in the holes to see how much I need to go on the lower alone. I was also concerned about bottoming out the axle assembly because the spindle centerline will not be a bit closer to the front diff. But as it all turned out, it was not close to bottoming out.
I cut about 1/4" out of the two 1" A-arm tubes as they were welded to the lower ball joint mount casting. I tack welded them back together and trial fit it all together. That seemed to be about right. I took it all back apart and welded it up solid. Now it all looks to match the left side quite well.
Also want to use this in our yard and the stock tires are NOT turf friendly, especially with the solid "spool" rear differential. I found these on Amazon, 25x12-12" and 25x8-12" hard pack race tires as they're called. They're 6-ply and tubeless. The initial probably I had was that the size rating was not even close to the actual size. They said, install and then recheck the diameters and I did. They did get larger, but the rears are more than 1" smaller in diameter than the side wall stamping. Instead of 25", they're 23.75" tall. What I DON'T WANT are shorter tires. I had already purchased the used wheels at 12" to match the original factory diameter, but in hindsight I would now opt for 14" wheels with 4x110mm bolt pattern and would have been able to find a tire in the 27" diameter range a lot easier and cheaper. Live and learn they say.
Here are some pictures of before and after.
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By Kierobi
Evening All,
Finally took ownership of a 2015 Massimo MSU 500 and am in need of some spare parts to get it fixed up and running properly again.
Where is everyone shopping for spares? Found a couple of places that stock what I need but prices vary wildly and some stores seem to be ludicrous! Have visited the big warehouse websites as well and found most of what I'm looking for but not everything!
Thanks in advance!
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Steve Vanvelzen
I Recently purchased a Massimo T-Boss 550F last fall with their 60" snow thrower because I couldn't find a decent UTV here in Southern Ontario; nothing in stock anywhere. I am having really bad buyer's remorse after spending time on it and reading all the bad online reviews. The company boasts the fact that it is built in Texas, USA, so I was hoping to do the right thing by buying, "Made In North America" but it is still Chinese Junk, assembled in the USA. and I am starting to realize that I am going to have a lot of difficulty getting parts for this thing; I can't even get an oil filter, finally bought a "Hisun" filter and hope it fits. i busted the shear pins in the snow thrower and can't find replacements for that either. The thing is so hard to change gears most of the time; I am terrified I am going to wreck something. The place I purchased it from is absolutely useless. Can I adjust something myself? Anyone out there have this problem and have some advice (besides selling it and buying a good brand)?
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