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By BWF
I have a 2011 or so Landmaster LM200. I cannot get it to start. I turn the key and nothing happens. The brake switch seems to be working, the ignition switch works. The Coil is new the Voltage Regulator is new and the starter relay is new.
I can connect the terminals on the starter relay and it starts right up and runs fine. I just can't get it to start by turning the key.
I am having a bit of trouble bleeding the brakes, not much fluid comes out at the calipers when I am pumping the brakes, though that an air bubble near the brake switch might make it not sense that the brake pedal is depressed.
I am at a loss, please help!
Brad
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By HISUN Sector 750 EPS Failu
"Mrs. Smith" doesn't like how loud our Sector 750 is. On a HISUN forum someone said the same thing about his 750. I haven't given it much thought because I've been more focused on stuff that has broken.
So, I used my decibel meter to check ours out. 4000 RPM, Low gear, under 20 MPH . . . . 97 decibels. That's above most ordinances, even state boat noise limits.
AI Overview Ninety-seven (97) decibels is considered very loud and dangerous to hearing with prolonged exposure, roughly equivalent to a newspaper press, a loud nightclub, or a snowmobile. At this level, damage can occur after just 30 minutes, necessitating hearing protection -
By Jeff freeman
I have a Coleman 550. Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness? Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.
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By BigToys
I'm posting this because I couldn't find any like issues, and I have never seen an issue like this in over 30 years.
I got the machine because it wouldn't start. It was only sparking on every 5th revolution. checked the crank position sensor, then 1 at a time cleaned and put dielectric grease on all connectors. I tried starting after each one. Finally it ran. Then after two weeks of starting it everyday, it went back to that spark every 5th revolution. Put in a new coil, and a regulator because it was dropping voltage to the battery while sitting. Of course I had a new plug, checked cam timing and chain, set both valves, and the injector was firing as it should with a perfect spray pattern.
I did a lot more troubleshooting and eventually it got spark every revolution, had great spray, and wouldn't even pop. Stayed this way. It was driving me nuts, wouldn't even pop with ether.
I pulled the trigger on a new ECM because what else could it be? Installed it and she fired right up, and is perfect now. Hope this helps somebody.
BigToys
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By Razorair
New to this site I just got this 2014 Coleman UTV 700 High Temp Light on from the start cold I haven't really ohm checked the sensors although they are all new but I have done lots of work on the engine I've replace the head gasket, wet clutch rebuilt the primary clutch and cleaned the secondary clutch with a new belt plus a bunch of other stuff I just can't figure out this high temp light that is on at start and has never been off. I have bled the air multiple times. I also wired a switch for the fan to run it most of the time due to others that have suggested this. It is running good the radiator is getting warm but really haven't ran it enough to make sure it's not getting too hot but I just want the light to work as it's suppose to. I would really like to install a true temp gauge if anybody could help with doing that.
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