2020 Polaris rzr turbo S Street legal conversion custom roll cage
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By John Gubancsik
After sitting this winter in a garage, I noticed coolant under the side by side when I went to get it out. Does anyone know what would cause the coolant to leak out while in storage? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By riggy400
Bought a Coleman 400 UTV (pretty much a Hisun), the previous owner tried to replace the timing chain, couldn't time it properly and sold it to me. After some hours I figured out how the timing all is supposed to be set (I think/hope) and as I am reassembling, I noticed that the water pump gear was awfully hard to spin. I held the gear with my hand and spun off the impeller. I checked the bearing, spins great no obvious issues noticed other than this o-ring which seems to be out of place? When I remove this o-ring and reassemble the WP, it seems to spin nice and easy without a drag. I looked up the service manual (although very inaccurate info there often) and don't see this o-ring present. Am I missing something here or what? Any input?
This is not easy to access once the engine is back in the machine so would like to avoid having to deal with this if it becomes a problem.
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By monkthumper
Fuel pump and cooling fan inop. I have the fuel pump hot wired that keeps me goin but now cooling fan wont kick on. I'm bout to look for a scanner hook-up unless someone can give me direction, any help?
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