-
Similar Topics
-
By Chile
2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity.
Question 1: When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
Question 2: I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance. I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention. I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
Thank you all in advance,
Chile
-
By Prepper
I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines. There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil. My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage). While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure. Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine. Could they both be right ???
Any thoughts ?
-
By GBarney
Recently bought a 2010 RTV 1100 with bad engine. a d1105T out of a toro 5400 just came available locally. Looking for info on if anybody has installed the turbo version of this engine, what challenges/ problems were encountered, how it turned out.
Looks like nobody has any insight. I will complete installation and report back as to how it went, how it works, and what's involved.
-
By Aaron Colona
Just bought a brand new 760 about a month ago. I'm at 20 hours which the book says is when you need to change the break in oil.
I must be crazy, but I can't find the oil filter. I've googled a million videos...everything seems to be 2019 or lower...and/or a 550. They all show the filter easily seen by looking in past the rear passenger tire on the engine. There is absolutely nothing there on mine.
1.there seems to be very little info if you Google a 760, or anything Massimo newer than like 2019.
2. Does anyone have a current model year 760 that can answer my riddle for me?
-
By GunnersTacklebox
Hi All,
New here, but bought a 2022 Sector 750 brand new last march (old stock up here in Canada)
It's a good bike so far, but I have noticed a quirk and was wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue?
The issue I've had is if I leave the utv parked on any incline, not even a major incline, and leave it to sit for a while (day or two) it will not start properly. It will turn over and not fire until I press the gas pedal, when it will run and rev up, but if I let off the gas it will die. It will keep doing this until I either start it in gear and drive it for a bit or leave it in neutral and roll it down the hill to flatter ground. where it will have to sit for a while.
If I park it on a decline there is no issue. fuel is not low, it's occurred a couple times now.
Any thoughts on the cause of this? Dealership just says bring it in and let them take a look, at my expense of course.
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.