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By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
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By Ridge Runner
Hi
i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter. The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening. There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place. The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them. This is right by the tail light assemblies. I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in. Bottom line I’m making it worse.
coleman was no help. If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole. Any ideas?
thanks
Ridgerunner
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By JOSEPH LAMAR
I have a 2020 axis 500 and I have replaced the TPS twice and the whole throttle body assembly once and still have code 122. I can barely drive the thing. It bucks and surges like crazy
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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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By Qtband
I'm looking at picking up this UTV and this is what the owner says:
"All I know about it is it runs. Display does not work and it will not move! Front end or trans could be locked up. It moves some, but does not sound good."
My question is, what could the moving issue be, and how can I check it out when I look at it? I feel the price is right at $2000, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into.
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