Jump to content


Laser Alignment

Recommended Posts


Just changed dirt proof boots on steering box. Some lessons I learned are

1. When you start, crank the wheels hard in one direction and measure the distance (TRAVEL) from socket to the stop and write it down. If you increase the distance a little, you will get a tighter turn radius but you will probably start binding up in the CVs and if you change it, you will need to realign your front end / toe in which is .98 inches.

2. You will see the gear rack move up and down and this gives you some play in the linkage, go to Ebay and enter 200302043085 . Some edit deletions here.

3. Now the laser alignment, sort of, Center you steering wheel, If this type of thing is important to you, Center the gear rack as best you can, you may need to rotate the spline connectors, then turn the forks in or out until 1/2 of the travel is at each end and the hooks are level, spin the steering wheel to check, tighten the jam nuts, and hook up the tie rod ends and tighten the bolt going through the forks, real tight, there is play here also and tight get rid of it.


Hang a piece of card board or something similar across the back that extends out past the rear wheels about 4-5 inches. Shine a flash light from as close to the side of the front wheel toward the back and mark the shadow cast by the rear wheel, both sides. Now shine a laser pen from the front of the front tire across the back of the front tire and mark where it hits the card board, the beam should just barely be visible on the front side of the front tire.

This should give you an idea of where thing are and you can start making adjustments, rock the buggy back and forth after each tweak before retesting.

Jack the front wheels off the ground, have someone hold the steering wheel hard against the stop, force the wheel out against all play and turn, feeling for any hint that the CV may be binding, on both sides.

Make sure you got all the jam nuts jammed.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Kinarfi, when shimming the top of your steering rack, if you use polyethylene, it makes an excellent bearing material and it won't break when you bend it. Another thing you may want to consider is to put a peice under the entire aluminum cap and then put about a 7/8" wide strip between the aluminum plate and the peice that covers the entire plate. When tightened down it wil bow the full plate peice down against the rack removing the play. This way you won't need to bend the ends up as the strip cannot slide out becauses it's not touching the rack. This way you could actually use metal shim stock for the strip allowing you to loosen the cap and slide in a heavier gauge as the poly wears.

Do you know what the camber and caster settings should be for the Trooper and how do you measure them. Also you said the tow in snould be .98", where do you measure this. Is that the difference between the measurment between the front sides of the front rim and their rear side? I'm getting ready to dive into my front suspension with fox shocks. Yea, frame cutting and all. I'm thinking about lowering my front diff. flatbed warned me that unless I change a loot of suspension points that I would produce bump steer so I'm going to have to watch things real close.

flatbed, I know, you warned me. I suspect that by this time that you are starting to figure me out. The more I'm not susposed to delve into something, the more driven I am to try it. When I was a kid,I swear that some of my projects had more weld material in them then stock steel because of all the changes Iwould try. I've learned a lot by heading down the wrong path.

By the way kinarfi, I don't use jam nuts, I use peanut butter nuts.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't know caster, camber settings, toe in is in the manual and the way I learned it is jack the wheel off the ground and have some spin the as you draw line with a pen on the high points of the tread and measure the distance between the lines as high as possible with out bending the tape measure on the back and axle high on the front and find the difference. Adjust for .98 inches toe in. The manual says measure while on the ground.


PS got some requests in for info with Joyner & No Limits

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By mixfixdave
      I had been wanting to install power steering on my T4 for years so I went to the salvage yard last weekend and bought a complete column (minus airbag) out of a 2009 Nissan Versa for $125 with the ECU.
      It was a fairly simple install. The long shaft that fits to the Joyner steering rack actually fit perfectly into the Nissan column. Had to weld up a U joint on the Nissan column to make it a straight shaft and fab up one simple bracket. Connect power and ground plus a switched 12v and now I can steer with one hand!

    • By Steve Waldner
      I have a Kioti  Mechron utv and want to add power steering. Can anyone till me if there is an electric assist motor from a car that would work putting between the steering wheel and steering box. One that doesn't need alot of electronics 
    • By Wyatt Carneal
      Hey guys.
      I have a 2009 hisun 700 I bought bout 2 weeks ago and it was running fine but was hard to start but once warm it fire rite up  i took the  air filter off and it was nasty so I gave it a good cleaning and it hasn't started since. Its cranking over really slow I replaced the starter. I also replaced the batery. It acts like its not releasing decompression  I found a service manual on line and downloaded it and it said the intake valves setting .010-.015 mm  and exhaust is .015-.020 and they all was set on .008 intake and exhaust. And the timing is set I set the intake to .012 and exhaust to .016 and it still cracks over really slow I'm lost and don't know wat else it could be. Anyone have any ideas.  And help would be great thanks .
    • By Joyce Marzion
      Kenda K530 Pathfinder Front Tires - 25x8x12
      Kenda K530 Pathfinder Back Tires - 25x10x124 

      12 in Steel Wheels pulled from 2018 Textron Alterra 500, NEW

    • By Swampdonkey
      2017 msu500 efi. Has spark and fuel. Valves are within clearances.  Leave key on I get a 118 code. Ect sensor? Could this keep it from starting
      Old plug was black

  • Create New...