Quantcast
Jump to content


2009 Yamaha Rhino 700FI no 4x4 or diff lock


pchow

Recommended Posts

This just started happening a few rides ago. 4x4 and full lock were working fine. Now it won't go into 4x4 or lock. Took the servo motor off and it turns and operates just fine when I press the 4x4 button and lock button so I know its not that. Been doing some research and people seem to be saying that the slider (picture with red arrow pointing to it) should be all the way to the right for 2 wheel drive, middle for 4x4 and all the way left for locked. I tried pushing it to the left and it won't move any farther than what you can see in the picture. Seems like it's hitting something. It'll move all the way to the right, but I can only move it about 1/4" to the left (where it is in the pic now). Been trying to find an exploded view of the front diff with no luck. The Yamaha parts diagrams don't even show this slider as a part (diagram I have attached).

Couple of questions. Anyone have an exploded diagram of what the front diff parts should look like for a 2009 Rhino 700 FI
Special Edition? Some people say there should be a "fork" that the slider moves but I can't see that on the parts diagram either. Is my pic with the blue line pointing to the fork? Anyone with any ideas? Would like to get my 4x4 working again so I can do some snow wheeling soon.

 

IMG_9746 copy.jpg

front diff.JPG

IMG_9750_LI.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

TBH, I'm not the best when it comes to schematics. But the exploded diagram, doesn't look like the same component as the pictures. I don't see that bar, or any of the arrowed items at all, in the exploded version. I'm wondering if it's the correct diagram. It appears to be a front diff.

Looks like some scarring on the right side of that gear in the first picture though. But I could easily be mistaken. 

Gearing always just works till it doesn't. Seals, and bearings, pins, and keepers of all sorts are used, and sometimes fail. When something has come out of place, and blocks something else. There's usually not any remedy short of major surgery. 

With the price of parts, and the labor involved. Have you considered looking into a salvage replacement rear end?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think this is all referring to the front differential; my understanding is that the rear is always engaged, and that 2 wheel, 4 wheel, and 4 wheel locked is all done in the front differential.

I don't see that piece in the parts diagram, but I understand the resistance to move the slider to the left. Many times, the 4WD locked command is sent, and the indicator will flash, but it takes some rotation of the left and right wheels at different rates to allow everything to line up so that the servo can lock the differential and the indicator shows locked.

Keep one of your front wheels on the ground and jack up the other so that you can rotate it slowly until you are able to move the slider over fully.

Understand that if you are able to do that, and the servo is working properly, this won't answer why you aren't able to go into 4 wheel drive, or lock your differential.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think this diagram is better. When you lock the differential, the servo motor turns, engages the teeth on part #7, slides it to the left in your picture, or right in the picture below, riding on rod #6, so that the forks on #7 that engage on part #11 cause it to move to the right in the picture below and engage inside part #9, locking the differential.

image.png.cc4e9ee6b07b98024f07084197f8c123.png

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, mfendley said:

I think this diagram is better. When you lock the differential, the servo motor turns, engages the teeth on part #7, slides it to the left in your picture, or right in the picture below, riding on rod #6, so that the forks on #7 that engage on part #11 cause it to move to the right in the picture below and engage inside part #9, locking the differential.

image.png.cc4e9ee6b07b98024f07084197f8c123.png

Thanks so much. This is the diagram I’ve been looking for. Where did you find it? I’ve looked at so many different manuals and haven’t been able to find the right one. It definitely looks like this. I’ll try your idea with keeping one tire on the ground and turning the other one. My servo motor and switch work fine. I pulled the motor off and can push the button and it turns properly. It’s just the slider part #7 that’s not moving enough to the left. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Oldman
      Ive got an American Sportsworks BD-200.  I can’t get the ignition switch to work, but if I cross the solenoid, it starts right up. Runs great.  Can anyone send me a simple wiring diagram for a switch and where the 3 wires from the switch go!   Any help is greatly appreciated!!!   Thanks!     


    • By Retired Plumber
      The rear differential lock light is on and I would like to get it off. How do I do that it is a Coleman UTV700.
    • By Gorj
      I am having an erratic issue.  Sometimes the solenoid/relay does not activate when switching on the power.  Thus the electric motor does not work. You can hear the solenoid activate because it is right under the seat in the middle. The solenoid/relay connects the batteries to the electric motor circuit. When it fails at making the connection I get a 54C3 code on the display.
    • By great8redsfan
      Okay folks. I have a low power issue. Been like this for a few years. Place I work at bought 3 and all have lost most of the pulling power.  They gave them away after local shop worked on one for 3 months and it had great power for about 1 month and then crap. They replaced throttle body, fuel injector, spark plug and IAC motor. Seat belt switches have wires cut and left open so no seat belt warning light anymore. It revs to 6k rpm in neutral but when put in gear and take off in low it just doesn’t seem to want to go anymore. Running 93 octane fuel with Stabil.  Any ideas greatly appreciated. I dont have a scan tool but no codes on dash. If held to floor it pops a little and runs almost 5K rpm but if I let off pedal about an inch it smoothed out and revs up to 6k rpm. 
    • By AndySwish33
      Brand new t boss 550. couple of questions. 
       
      1.  Do you need speakers in order to play music ?  Hooked my phone to Bluetooth no sound 
      2.  On screen registration.. it won’t let me fill in the info on the touch screen.  Navigation works but the registration portion does not 
      3.  Is there a data plan you can get or need ?  
       
      thanks everyone 
×
×
  • Create New...