2021 RK 750 shifter adjustment
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By Jeff freeman
I have a Coleman 550. Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness? Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.
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By Andy Dickerson
So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines.
I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there.
I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.
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By Stubbsmobile
Hey yall,
Helping a friend out. he purchased a 2020 massimo buck 400 utv. has about 100 hours on it. after starting the engine, shifter in low, it does fine. when shifted to high gear, most of the time it acts like its not in gear completely, and it pops out and grinds bad. when you can get it in high gear, it acts like something is binding and it wont hardley roll before it jumps out of gear and makes that grinding noise. almost like trying to dr4ive a standard transmission car and start off in 3rd or 4th gear.
I have been on this site for several hours now, and totally understand the overall feeling about massimo utv. I can only imagine trying to find transmission parts when other members cant even find a fuel filter, lol.
A new transmission is (part#47516) $1159.99 plus tax and freight.
anyone have any other ideas or suggestions on what is causing the noise in high gear and not wanting to move?
Thanks ,
Chris
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By CKfrustration
I have a Hisun Sector E1 UTV. Worked pretty good for a while but then started to run into issue with gear grinding noise. Will not engage in forward or reverse. When put into forward or reverse and press pedal can hear a whiring noise as if something is supposed to be engaging but is not. Occasionally it will grab in jolt forward momentarily but then ceases. No error warnings or codes given. Due to money restrictions, I really need to fix this myself. Has anyone had this problem and what could it be that is needed. Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
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By AlphaSerenity
Hello,
Before I invest $10k+ into a brand new UTV for the farm, I want to get my feet wet with a fixer upper and learn the mechanical side of things. I acquired a 2022 Hisun Axis 500 (Lowes-specific model) from an auction for $500. It has only 200 hours and 120 miles on the engine. It looks like the previous owner used it for ranch work and didn't drive it on trails, deep water/mud, or anything too crazy.
While it runs and moves, it has some problems. It struggles to accelerate up any incline in high and low range and sometimes stalls when I let off of the throttle or change gears. When I apply throttle in neutral, it sounds like it is struggling for fuel/air and pops. When I decelerate, there is a grinding sound coming from the clutch, which I've read to be related to the one way bearing and is semi-common. The last thing I've observed is sometimes the speedometer display sometimes will show a much higher value for a few seconds after barely touching the throttle. Based on the documentation, if a problem is detected from the sensors, the instrument panel display should have an error code rendered on the screen in place of the time, but this isn't happening. Here is a video showing some of these issues (engine is exposed with console removed):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFAkO5TaGps
Here is another video of the clutches in action:
I've done some research, but information on this specific unit and sister units is limited. There does seem to be transmission and clutch issues reported. I still need to check into the head gaskets. I don't have the equipment to test compression right now, but I do plan on ordering what is needed soon. I do have an order in place for some cables to read the diagnostics from the computer. There is a shop two hours away from me that works on Hisun products, but I am hoping the problem can be identified and is something within my ability to handle. Below is what I've already investigated. I am leaning towards the primary clutch needing replacement right now.
After getting it home and unloaded, I did the following maintenance/checks to it prior to operating it further:
Changed the engine/clutch oil (and filter) and gear oils using manufacture recommended viscosity Changed the air filter and checked for cracks in the air intake flow. Verified good suction. Cleaned the throttle body Changed the spark plug and verified the gap was within spec (0.6-0.7mm) Changed the coil and coil wire Changed the fuel lines, fuel injector, and verified the fuel pump was outputting the correct initial prime pressure for ignition and continuous pressure after ignition. Also completely emptied the fuel tank and made sure octane 91+ fuel is being used per manufacturer specs. Ran seafoam through system too. Cleaned the spark arrester and verified no cracks or gaps in the exhaust flow Changed out the O2 sensor Checked all wired connections to ensure they were secured and no breaks were visible Checked the belt for tightness and for any signs of wear and tear Verified 4WD and the differential lock function as expected - still hesitates and struggles uphill Verified the fan gears in the shifter are not corroded and working as expected ECU was reset after replacing sensors and fuel-related parts
Thanks!
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