Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just bought a used 2015 MSU 500.  I am in the process of replacing all the fluids and generally going over everything.  I pulled the outer plastic clutch cover off and oil started dripping out.  Oil was everywhere, a huge mess.  I thought for sure I had a bad seal on the clutch or secondary.  So I removed the clutch and secondary CVT so I could get a look at the seals and they both were dry as a bone.  The only two dry spots.  Now I  am stumped.  If oil did not get into the by way of the two shaft seals, how on earth could it have gotten in?  

Thanks

Chris

IMG_2286.jpg

IMG_2285.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Have you checked out the vent that from the top of the crank case to the air box? Except that is on the left hand side I believe unless they changed it (we have a 2008 hisun 700 utv) but I heard that there used is an air/oil separator there and in our case it was missing/destroyed and that led to oil splashing everywhere. I just connected the two ends of the air tubes without that separator and it works fine. Also on our hisun under that fan cover there is a little timing window that unscrews so maybe that is missing in your case. Just ideas as I heard somewhere that hisun makes the engines for massimo. But it may be a different setup as your pics do not look too familiar to me 🙃

Posted

Well I cleaned everything up and and replaced the wet clutch, outer clutch and belt.  I have been driving it around the neighborhood without the outer cover on so I could keep an eye on things and all seems to be good and dry.   I don't see how it could create the mess but one thing that was amiss was the oil filter wasn't even finger tight.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo 700 MSU. The machine started burning oil all of a sudden. One day fine-- next morning burning oil. Looking for advice. Do I pull the engine to inspect the top end or can it be done with the engine in place? Pro? Cons?
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated in advance.
      Chile
       
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity. 
      Question 1:  When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
      Question 2:  I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance.  I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention.  I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
      Thank you all in advance,
      Chile
    • By Prepper
      I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines.  There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil.  My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage).  While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure.  Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine.  Could they both be right ???
      Any thoughts ?
       
    • By Joe Breaux
      Decided to do an oil change on the Massimo ...drained oil, screen was very clean even tho oil wasn't.  Then went to remove old filter.. holy crap ..I tried every tool I have, could not budge it..Went to store and got one of the end cap type..fit nice and tight, put a 1/2 in drive ratchet on it..nope..not moving.  Put a 18 on breaker bar o. It. The inside of the removal tool broke off!!  Had to weld it back together. Put a pipe on the bar for more leverage.  Finally broke it loose..
      I have never seen a filter in my 55 yrs of working on engines so tight..And i was the one who put it on 2 yrs ago.  JUST HAND TIGHT!
       
×
×
  • Create New...