We just purchased the Coleman UT400, I put 5 gallons of fuel in the tank and the fuel indicator still reads "empty". After looking around the fuel tank, I found a tube that is only connected at one end, maybe this is the issue? I have been looking for a more comprehensive manual that may show how this tube should be connected, no luck. Looking for help on this issue/issues. Thank you.
My gauge is working fine, but as it got low on gas and the gauge showed it as low, I filled it up but the gauge didn't come back up. Does it need to be restarted or anything to reset? Does it need to be driven a certain distance maybe or should it be instant?
By Bryan g
We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable. That dont always fix it. I went round n round with coleman on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair " I told them shift lever does not have enough travel . No amount of cable adjustment will increase travel . I extended lever with piece on flat iron by 3/4 of inch . This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely . Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out, grease all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts, brake hose routing , make sure not touching exhaust . These are just few of the more common failures I see .
Haven't posted in a while since solving the excessive cabin noise issue, so I thought I would share a few upgrades to my Sector... Realize that this is driven daily on the street, so some of the mods are to make it more streetworthy.
Locking gas door.
Rear view mirror.
Modified windshield for better airflow in cabin.
Lowered and modified headrest bar for improved rear view. Tailgate protector.
Overhead utility rack. Keeps the interior cooler and dryer, too!
Folding rear seats.
Dust cover and seat protector.
If anyone wants links to the rear view mirror, seats, or arrests, let me know and I will post. But know that everything requires some level of fabrication. The utility rack was all custom built. Cheers!
If you pay any attention to your UT400, you have probably noticed that the right front wheel tips in at the top a LOT. The left fronts seem to be about right from what I've seen. I look at them all when I'm at different stores just to see if they're all that way, and yes, they all seem to be that way.
There "should" be adjustments on either the ball joints or the inner pivot points, but these are solid, not way to adjust them.
I have the UT400 up on my 2-post lift and the right spindle seems to be around 3-deg tipped in at the top and the left spindle is about straight or maybe half a degree tipped in. This is at full suspension drop, not ride height. I took the shocks off and rotated the spindles from bottom travel to full max up travel, way more than the shocks will allow. The higher the spindle lift, the more tip in there is on both spindles. This is true because of the unequal upper and lower A-arms. It's just the nature of of the dual A-arms and them being unequal in length.
I took the inner pivot 8mm bolts out and inserted a lot smaller 1/4" bolts and pushed the lower A-arm inward and the angle on the spindle decreased. I then took the top inner bolts out and did the same thing, but pulled out instead. This got the spindle equal to angle of camber on the left side. I used the offset in the holes to see how much I need to go on the lower alone. I was also concerned about bottoming out the axle assembly because the spindle centerline will not be a bit closer to the front diff. But as it all turned out, it was not close to bottoming out.
I cut about 1/4" out of the two 1" A-arm tubes as they were welded to the lower ball joint mount casting. I tack welded them back together and trial fit it all together. That seemed to be about right. I took it all back apart and welded it up solid. Now it all looks to match the left side quite well.
Also want to use this in our yard and the stock tires are NOT turf friendly, especially with the solid "spool" rear differential. I found these on Amazon, 25x12-12" and 25x8-12" hard pack race tires as they're called. They're 6-ply and tubeless. The initial probably I had was that the size rating was not even close to the actual size. They said, install and then recheck the diameters and I did. They did get larger, but the rears are more than 1" smaller in diameter than the side wall stamping. Instead of 25", they're 23.75" tall. What I DON'T WANT are shorter tires. I had already purchased the used wheels at 12" to match the original factory diameter, but in hindsight I would now opt for 14" wheels with 4x110mm bolt pattern and would have been able to find a tire in the 27" diameter range a lot easier and cheaper. Live and learn they say.
Here are some pictures of before and after.
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