I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility
That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
Sorry for the novel...
I'm new to the forum and new to the side-by-side world. This is my first post. A bit of background about me. My dad was a mechanic all his life and he taught me what I was willing to learn at the time. In the mid 60's we had a marina on a small lake in Mid-Michigan area that also service many surrounding lakes. I was the mechanic. We sold Polaris, Johnson and Arctic Cat snowmobiles along with Johnon and Mercury outboards, boats and pontoon boats. We also sold Bridgestone motorcycles very early on. While going to college I raced on the Ski Doo Michigan Distributor's race team out of Clare MI. That was the first year for the factory race sleds, the Blizzards! Anything with a motor and or wheels, I'm all ears and eyes. I retired as a design engineer for the an O.E.M. making plastic production equipment. Also served a stint as a Chevy/Pontiac service manager back in the 70's and 80's. Oh, I retired the end of '19. We had moved from MI to MO for my work and after 20 years there and retiring, we moved back to Mid-Michigan. Nuff said I believe.
I just purchased a 2021 Coleman UT400 that has 320 hrs. and 1420 miles.
I have multiple questions/issues.
1. The wet clutch appears to be toast. It will rev up high and just barely move. Got one ordered, complete kit. Shouldn't be a big job.
2. This UT400 has a bad smoking habit and it think it's bad for its health... It not only smokes on startup but continues to smoke until it's shut off. I brought it home in my 22' enclosed car trailer yesterday and by the time we shoved and drove it into the trailer, the smoke was SOOOOO BAD, that we could hardly see out the back of the trailer. Valve seals usually stop smoking after it starts up and all the residual oil has been burnt up. Rings on the other hand seem to smoke the entire time the motor is running. I've read that some of the Hisun motors have had suspect oil rings. If this thing is smoking that badly from rings, I have no idea what the bore is like until it comes apart. For the money, I'd rather have a complete cylinder/piston replacement kit and just be done with it. Also put in new valve seals at the same time.
Thoughts? I can't think of anything other than the two items mentioned above that could cause this. It's not like in the old days with a PCV sticking and sucking oil up from the valve cover area and feeding it back into the intake to be burned. I think that with the above swapping of parts, that "should" take care of my smoking motor...
Just how is the oil level checked, dip stick screwed in or just stuck in the hole without screwing it in?
I also cannot believe that in these days of engineering marvels, that a company, or many companies, would design a motor with a wet clutch using the same lubrication system as the motor. Trans I can see, not much wear particles from the trans. But with all the junk flying off the clutch shoes and then recirculating into the lubrication system, hopefully the filter will strain the big chunks out prior to being pressurized and forced back into the bearings and cylinder area. Just doesn't make good engineering sense to me.
3. I see no issues setting the toe-in, but these little guys do not, from what I can find, any way to adjust camber or caster in anyway. I'm guessing some of the larger more expensive side-by-sides have the lower A arms with threaded ends at the frame to turn to adjust the camber/caster. I may elect to take my lower control arms off and cut the ends off and weld in adjustment bungs and rod ends to replace the stock units. Am I missing something on the available suspension adjustments or lack there of??? Right now the right front tire is really tipped in at the top compared to the left side, also has a large amount of toe-out. The toe-out will not be an issue to correct.
4. How do you change the clock from 24 hour to 12 hour?
I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get deeper into my new toy.
Also, it came with a 60" plow and I hope to use this to keep my quite large driveway clear this winter. I do have the luxury to do multiple plows during a storm to keep the level of snow down a bit. Yes, I know, I should have bought a larger rig, but with the issues this has, I got it at a very good price.
Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
By Bryan g
We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable. That dont always fix it. I went round n round with coleman on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair " I told them shift lever does not have enough travel . No amount of cable adjustment will increase travel . I extended lever with piece on flat iron by 3/4 of inch . This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely . Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out, grease all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts, brake hose routing , make sure not touching exhaust . These are just few of the more common failures I see .
I have a Coleman ut400, when I use the winch to raise the plow the battery light comes on, once I let off the switch the light goes off. Does anyone know if that’s normal?
We have 2.4 acres of forested mountain property with about 1000' of gravel driveway to plow and maintain. My trailer is a Silverwing SW9f 5'x9' and we would really like to have something that seats 3 people. I looked at Polaris, Yamaha, Can-AM, Kawasaki and so far the only thing that fits the bill is the Polaris Ranger 570 full size.
Just wondering if anyone else has ideas of other options new or used that would fit this? I really like my trailer and it will be great to use behind the UTV also when i get it so i hate to have to get something different.
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