Utv engine breaking
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By William P
After a short while of engine running the temp light comes on and the water in the radiator water is boiling., water level is ok pryer to starting engine. This is consistent. Coleman 400 bout 3yrs old
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By Jon V
Good afternoon. When the timing chain came off its lower gear (previous owner had over-tightened the tensioner), I ordered new parts.. chain, oil-pump chain, tensioner etc.. But now that it's time to put it back together, the main crankshaft makes a clang noise and stops when you turn it by hand. I want to solve this before assembling everything. The camshaft cover is off so that the valves aren't being activated. Should the transmission be in neutral to turn the crankshaft? The engine was running fine until the chain came off the lower gear. Then it would spin when the starter motor engaged so I assumed the crankshaft was spinning. Any advice is appreciated.
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By lmarkie
I swapped out the Subaru motor for a Predator 670cc. If I remove the heat shield around the muffler, The stock muffler sits in there just fine with 1" to spare.
Only problem is the exhaust exit is toward the back seat instead of out the back.
Do you all think that the stock exhaust would be okay (just as effective) if cut a hole and welded a pipe on the reversed (opposite) end? Of course, plug the old exit end. Other option I thought of was to roll a tube 180° with a 7" center line radius and finish extention of 12" or so.
Any thoughts?
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By Red Good
Serial # a8mv86futja001002 , no search engine will give me a model , it has a 471 engine . Is massimo always hard to get hold of ? No answer to emails or phone calls ?
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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