Tommy2bits

I have a 135ah LifePO4 single battery with 200a continuous and I climb very steep off road hills at home like a champ and get around 30 miles out of it before I hit 20%. At my lake community, my old golf cart would struggle and drop to 7mph while the machine doesn't even notice the long and steep paved roads. Using a 200a battery may not be fully utilizing the motor but it is definitely a limitation for me in power or longevity 480.mov

Nope no errors, it seems like all the torque levels are now the way they're supposed to be and guessing that it wasn't operating correctly before because I didn't have any speed limits and I could climb steep hills and 2WD high range now when I test the hill I get 100% torque in Low 70% and High and 50% in M, which is exactly what it's supposed to be. I drove 30 miles at all through the community last weekend and it drove like a champ even in mid range but with the new normal torque and speed levels. The regenerative braking is now working normally too.

The only specific concern that you cited appears to be that the battery was "not done professionally." Please explain what is concerning you that a "professional" would do differently beyond remove 8 old batteries, install 1 lithium battery, and charger that comers with the battery. There is nothing else to do. This is the setup that many non -professionals have done. Yes you can further reprogram the controller but many have have not done this. Please explain what is the technical concern thanks

thanks, I appreciate the info. It really just bothers me when I let off the throttle, not when I hit the brakes. Now I know just in case though!

I mainly just cruise around my lake community with crappy roads since the golf cart was too harsh and the regen is more annoying than helpful, can you point me to the regen switch to disconnect? I've only seen one other post about this and the wire on the pedal they thought it was affected something different

Just bought a brand new 2022 (NOS) Sector E1 with Lithium upgrade. (Single 135ah/200amp continuous). I've climbed a moderate hill in my woods probably 20 times since buying it. Today It won't climb it unless I am in Low. In High it almost makes it and then completely dies and I have to roll back down the hill. In Mid range (Max Range) I can't get 2 feet up the hill and the power output in only 100 amps, I have climbed this hill in every speed before many times. I put it on the trailer tonight and it wouldn't even get on the dang trailer in mid range. Torque is gone. That being said, when I am just cruising around in Midrange, it runs absolutely perfect with plenty of power. The only thing I did was charge it up, that is all. I charged to 100% using the charger that came with the battery. Before you think the BMS is shutting down due to overcharge protection, remember I am going UP hill so there is no regeneration AND I have done it before at 100% charge AND another big problem is that after 1 mile it is already down to 85% so it's not over charging and why is the battery draining so fast when I got 27 miles before. Battery output is fine in Low it pulls 200 amp up the hill just like normal so that doesn't point to the battery being the issue. All the individual cells on the battery are in line, so there is no dead cell either. I am tech savvy but to toward electric motors and I tried to cover all my bases. Please don't tell me basics like torque is reduced in High and Mid. The only thing I can think of is that I smelled something when I took my first drive today and I thought it was the Ebrake dragging but there was the correct amount of play in the cable and I jacked up the rear wheels and they spin freely. maybe something burned out in the motor, I do not knowm still runs great, we'll see if I have any trouble on the hills at the lake house this weekend. Maybe this is "Normal" and the settings were off before and was giving equal torque for whatever reason instead of 50% in Mid and 70% in High like the manual says.... For reference....this is it not even able to get on the trailer in mid range

Ok thanks a bunch, I just wanted as much info as possible. appreciate the confirmation

Thanks, I had a feeling it couldn't be locked but can feel it pulling at the same time. Do you have any info or source on that?

Any reason why what is supposed to be a locked rear diff doesn't tear up the turf when I max out a turning circle? When I lock the front diff, the front end tears it up like it should but not the rear. Tried in 2WD, 4WD and 4WD diff lock. My old Rhino would rip up the dirt in 2WD so I know what it is supposed to look like. New machine with 8 miles on it. I am not complaining about it, just wondering. Can't be the tire tread since when I lock the front it tears it up. Scratching my head on this one.

Wired very simple, Only a single battery and both chargers are attached. Going to correct the Delta Q soon so not looking to beat this set up to death. It had zero miles on it so it hasn't been like this for any length of time

Thanks for the info, I've seen some posts that say the Delta Q has an acceptable profile and I've seen others say the USB update is needed but I haven't reached that point as I've only had it a couple days but it's been on the list. The battery is a single Newtipower 135ah LiFePO4 with 2C grade cells and 200amp output. Only had one full weekend with it and got 27 miles. mostly in High. I would probably do 30 miles on the Max range setting, that's about what I expected which is great for me

So where can I get this memory stick with the additional profile everybody keeps talking about? From Delta Q?

I think the key reason for the two chargers is like you said, the old charger is set up for the lead acid profile and charging cycle and allows trickle charging. You don't want that, he didn't have a memory stick to change the Delta Q, which I'd like to do, but I just bought the thing.

The guy I bought mine from said some thing that made sense, plug in the OEM plug and charge it "for a while" until the little 12v is charged up and it will charge the Lithium as well but don't do full charging that way. Once the 12v is charged (Just ballpark it and don't check or sweat it), unplug and plug in the charger that came with the lithium battery to correctly finish off the charging so there is no overcharging or trickle charging.

Been raining so I haven't checked the controller but yeah, he just gets new old stock machines, slaps in the LiPo04 and the display and charger that comes with it and moves on to the next one, I did see this in the manual today. (see attachment) Regen increases in Low. Unfortunately I see the increased Regen across the board and mostly in "M" but I am just going to run it in High all the time after reading this unless I am climbing a hill. VERY happy with the machine overall. As a side note, on my first steep hill climb at my property, I was accidentally in 2WD and High gear and it did great

Yeah the screen is the battery monitor that came with the battery, I talked to the seller and he said he did not have the equipment to program the motor. He is a dealer but just barely, really just some guy with a warehouse flipping bikes. That is nice that you can hit the throttle to hold the unit while the brake is still on

As I have been riding more I can definitely tell it's not the brakes. When the needle goes to the green, regen mode, is when the motor starts drag. Sometimes it operates normally but sometimes it's just heavy-handed. A big problem is when I'm going down a steep hill on a trail at my property, it literally will lock up the rear wheels, and I'll end up sliding down the hill. No brakes are being applied. That's a dangerous way to go four wheeling. That brings up another issue that is just normal design... the machine won't let you hit the "gas" and the brake at the same time, normally that's just fine until you're on the side of a hill with 2 inches from the edge and you really need to give it a little bit of gas to hold it in place while you let off the brake because when you just switch from brake to gas, it's going roll forward a little before the motor kicks in and you'll fall off the hill. Back to regen... I thought I hit on something when I looked on the BMS controller screen, I realized it was a touchscreen and there was a discharge mode on and off and a charge mode on and off. I turned the charge mode off, thinking it would freewheel and I would just turn it back on when I needed to charge the batteries... it worked for about 30 seconds then I got an error code when it wanted to regen and it couldn't. Sure wish I could adjust it. I don't know what controller it has or if it was adjustable. would love more info on that. When I feel it working properly it is great, I see what it wants to do so I understand how to use the pedal

It does have that point but it is a tiny sliver and as you said, that sliver changes with the speed and angle of the road. I spend the majority of my time hyper focused on trying to find that sweet spot where it's not feeling like its slamming on the brakes but not accelerating and I am not a leadfoot. It grabs so hard that it pushes your body forward when it slows you and that is just barely letting off. It might be wonderful for those people who like micromanaging the throttle pedal but for me it is a pain and going to go away of I can get it to. Sometimes I do feel it working correctly but then it falls back into super slow down mode easily coming to a full stop if I don't give it "gas" 😢👉🍻

I had my first long drive and spend the weekend at the lake community and the regenerative braking happens at any battery level so that is not the overcharging problem. It will pull hard and come to a complete stop if I am not on the gas even on a flat road. I can tell it has definitely nothing to do with the brakes, there is zero drag when I am on the throttle. The amp meter goes straight to the green charging zone when it is slowing. Problem is that you have to be on the throttle twice as much to fight against the engine breaking so it kind of cancels out the whole recharge feature. It's definitely not performing as intended. I'm just gonna deal with the minor inconvenience and see if I can disable that feature altogether

First trip out to the lake house community this weekend. The place has moderate hills with crappy roads and two steep hills on the good main road, my old golf cart could only do 10 mph up those hills. The Hisun hit them without even noticing. The tight suspension from lighter batteries is solved after loosening up all three settings on the shocks and good to go. The regenerative braking is a pain in the butt. It's like a two foot driver... GAS or BRAKE. It slowed me down to a full stop at any any speed, any speed setting and any brake charge level, so it wasn't the 100% over charge possibility, I will be disabling that crap somehow some way. The single 135ah Lithium battery lasted 27 miles and that was just driving normal and lasted two full days. We went to the gate twice which is 1 mile and trucked it a good bit of it at 25 mph but most of the time we were cruising through the streets at low speed. I can confidingly say I could get 30 miles out of it if I tried at all which is exactly what I expected. So basically I doubled the range of my golf cart and now have great suspension for the bumpy roads without riding my noisy Rhino. I am happy and it is a win. The jury is still out if it will make it an ATV park for an afternoon but a definite maybe. We will see how the torque affects the batteries soon but I know the motor can climb hills with the lithium battery with 100% amp output up to 14% of the battery with NO decline in performance which it KEY I also learned that it is much easier to remove the roof than strapping it down! IMG_2265.MOV

Thanks, I have a set of spanner wrenches and will give ti a try.

Yes that is what I read too as I noted it just seemed like the machine would freewheel if the battery went onto stand by mode but who knows I am going to do some testing at a lower charge once I get it home. I guess I will be in the hunt on how to disable the regen braking if I can't find a solution, just too weird pressing the throttle to go down hill.. I saw one post that instructed to unplug a connector on the brake pedal but if I remember correctly it turned out to be the brake light connection

Have you noticed the ride becoming significantly stiffer? I am buying one that was upgraded to one big Lithium battery and it rides horrible. I plan on loosening the preload on the coilover springs and adjusting the dampening and the release on the shocks and removing the away bar. Beyond that I may need to get some softer shocks since these are set up for 500lbs of batteries. Just wondering your experience and how do you charge your little 12v battery?

Hello, new member. I am about to buy a new old stock 2023 e1 with only 8 miles on the unit and a nice new 13.5kw Lithium upgrade. When going downhill, the regenerative braking stops the buggy completely. Tried it on a moderate slope and also on a significant slope. Did not see any error appear but didn't really know what to look at either at the time. A gentle nudge of the throttle and it goes just fine and there are zero other issues with the machine and this appears to be a minor inconvenience and just weird to hut the gas going downhill. From my research, I read that if the battery is fully charged, the regenerative braking may act erratic because the BMS on the battery stops the charging which may disable the motor and it is possible that it will engage the brakes. It did not feel like the brakes were doing anything, it felt more like the motor was braking, Another interesting fact is that I tried three units and they all acted the same way, so that let's me know there is not something "broken". How does the braking react with other e1 owners? With or without a battery upgrade? I am excited to bring it home tomorrow as I have 5 ac of property with lots of trails and gullys that I currently ride with my Rhino and I also have a house at a lake community with crappy roads that I get bounced around in my golf cart so this should bridge the gap and I can sell the other two.