Tinman

I'mcurious Charlie - how does the fuek programmer know the right mixture at diff rpms without the O2 sensor?

They look fine Noc. What state/city do you live in?

I need to get a rough cost to see if it's worth shipping. I can either USPS it to Miami, where a carrier takes it to panama at exorbitant cost, or then ship it direct to me here if the price is better.

Either way I'll have to figure out something. The border UTV tire store has two ITP fronts for $160 each, but they're rated winter/mud so I'm guessing they won't last.

Sounds good. Let me calculate shipping and I'll let you know in the next too days. Free is right up my alley, minus shipping of course

I'm at 2800 miles with more than half tread, and I ride on very loose pit run - dry as bone in summer, and a soggy mess in winter. Tons of hills, some seriously steep. Not too much mud, other than 300 ft runs a foot deep. Made it through everything, most of the time on 2X4. On some of the downhillers, I've had trouble stopping as the rocks just roll, but hey, I figured that'll happen on pretty much any tire.

Def need the O2 sensors. Without them your ECM is blind. Another thread mentions serious issues when they were disconnected.

Actually, seeing as I have those tires I know what they look like. They've worked fine - in fact, I've climbed hills that guys on Can-ams couldn't climb. Can you just give me a tread height front and rear? That'll tell me if they're worth shipping costs... THANKS BIG TIME!

OHYEAH...What are they? Can you give me a pic and weight if it's not too much to ask? You're already going way out for me...

ARGHHHHHH Rubbing salt in the wounds.... I knew I was in the wrong country, but this confirms it. If I convince Lenny to move down here, I'll get him to bring 4 tires too...

Thanks Kinarfi. I'll be flying to Florida soon, and I've thought of buying two tires, taping them together and bringing them on the plane. I'm that desperate. UTV tires are VERY expensive here, and there's only one tire available at 14" - an ITP that a small Costa Rica dealer has at the border. $165 for the fronts (I have the two rears -$180 each!!!, purchase when an egg showed up on my sidewall) The ITPs look nice and relatively flat when off the rim, but turn into a bubble when on it. I'm guessing it won't last in this terrain, but had no choice.

Ahhh 15 inch rims. I may have to go that route / with agressive truck tires. $25 / tire??? Not here. Used tires here are IN DEMAND, which is why people will pay $25 for a mediocre well used car tire. I gave away a tire that had 9 patches on it, including the sidewall (came with my used car) and I KNOW the guy would have bought it from me had I asked for $10.

I know the original Joyner tires are $100 for a rear, and I'm fine with mine - at 2900 miles the thread is at half. But I can't get them here, and shipping is ridiculous.

TIRES! Where are you getting them and which ones have worked for you?

I'm ready to pull my hair out - there are no 14 UTV tires here. Shipping is going to drive me crazy, but I may have to...

Problem has come back - but it only happens in serious downpours and after a good hour of knee deep mud sloshing. I'm thinking its water related :lol: I'll be going over all the front fusebox and wiring this monday.

Your homemade parts look like it could had came off any shelf of Joyner parts shop. You got some skills for a guy that lives in a place where resources isn't easily available.

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Doesn't say much for the joyner parts har har

Thanks bud. Just wanted to give our friends some ideas on what works and is easy to make. I think Lenny has a second lever for sale too, and the price is certainly right for anyone who wants to do the same. I can get motorcycle cables here for $5 plus shipping and handling, if anyone wants it.

Also, a gear change cable would work too, pushing the pin in instead of pulling it out.

Thanks guys!

Didn't include pics of the obvious like rad fan. Just the stuff I made up.

First off, FUSEBOX. I replaced mine. If you want to replace yours, cut the wires fuse by fuse near the old terminal. This way if you get confused, you can still see which wire went where. I have a pic of the work in progress, and the final assembly. Relays are now individual too.

4X4 electric to manual conversion.

I have a pic of the diff lever I used and how its mounted. Used a motorcycle cable, and the front diff has a plate as you can see. This plate is home made - Central America has next to nothing, so I had to use a hacksaw and file to make this. However, it works great and is reliable. You can see a front and back of the mechanism that pushes the pin in and out.

I used to be lead hand and team leader at my old tool and die shop. Now my parrot inspects everything and tells me what to do.

Here's the link;

http://www.pauldaytonscifi.com/spotlight.html

Ahhhh, he's lucky he survived. This is much safer

Awesome! Thanks Charlie!

I hear you. I'm nearing 50, and the slow degradation is inexorable. However, it would be much worse if I didn't bike every day. I know so many that, at my age, huff to climb a half dozen stairs and nearly have a coronary ascending one floor. I'll die one day, but I'd like to bike, live, enjoy wife and a myriad other things right up to that moment.

What happened to Kinarfi? Or are you referring to his T2?

It's a problem I had too Jim. Wires burned and fused inside the fusebox. I switched my fusebox to aftermarket and bought decent relays, as one of my relays also melted. I also hang my relays now instead of having them all together...

Do you have a part number for the limit straps?

I found the locking adjustment really finicky too. At first, I had to remove both cables completely, spray Wd40 t clean them, then grease them with motorcycle chain lube. That had them moving smoothly. Once done, I did what Lenny suggested and rasied the ends up, one at a time.

Tip: Use the little red tube WD40 and chain lube comes with, insert it into the cable end and tape it with electric tape to force the fluid through the cable.

I agree completely Lenny. I'm really happy with mine and don't regret my decision. For me, it's a work machine that allows me to go places every week that I did only by 2 day mountain bike rides / dirtbike / 3 day hike.

Now, we take 12 hours, and cover much more territory. Even though I go slowly, the heavy monsoon-created ruts on impossible trails beat the crap out of the T2, and yet I make it every week. I like working on machines, and I like riding them, and I sure get lots of both with this

Well, so far I've installed a home-made manual 4x4 lever that I am happy with. Used a Diff lock lever assembly I bought from Lenny, a motorcycle cable, a slide I made from scratch and it works great.

The Idling issue has gone away for now and its humming fine, though I'm sure it'll return. The RPM gauge is also working fine. Still mystified. Haven't found any shorts either.

Braced the front end thanks to Kinarfi's thread, and am in the process of installing a new fusebox.

Also put in a 16" fan, installed a fuel pressure gauge, and a few other odds and ends.

I'd start with the fuel pump. Too bad the fuel pressure gauge is in the back - I'm changing mine to where I can see it tomorrow.

Plus, you need to learn how to weld...

EDIT by Kinarfi - - - - I need a lot of things, Plus, somewhere I said no criticizing or I would delete your post, actually need to learn MIG welding, better, but at least the cracks and separations are gone / buried.

Thanks again Lenny. I'll check all connections this Friday. I'm wracking my brains trying to think this through, especially because when the RPM gauge was acting weird the engine itself was revving fine except for the idle issue.

In other words, the RPM gauge wasn't reading the revs properly and it appeared that whatever was causing the issue was also affecting idle.

At the moment, it's working fine, which makes it near impossible to find.

On an internet search, I did find the IAC failure affecting the RPM and idle on a car, but the car was over-revving and there was little mentioned as to the cause.