Tinman

Your fuel pump may not be priming good. Maybe try to turn the key on and let the pump prime then turn the key back off before trying to start and then turn it on again and try to start onlyafter it primes a second time. The pump has a check valve in it to hold the prime pressure. If it is leaking slightly it could cause the problem.

Lenny

Yeah. I found that doing what Kinarfy does with a cold start helps - pump the gas once before turning the switch. I'll try your idea.

I wouldn't have mentioned it, except that I have the only Joyner in Panama. This means everyone comes and looks, and starting trouble on a hot engine is slightly embarrassing.

Haha. We're old and cranky, and our Joyners are young and cranky. Must be Joyner PMS. There's a thread in there somewhere.

It turns over just fine both times. I'll explain what I do. I turn the key and the engine turns but doesn't start. I turn the key off for a second or two, then turn the key again. The engine starts fine after that.

I heard of this problem on some Nissans, and Nissan had found no fix - engine starts fine, but only on the second attempt. The manual does have a troubleshoot section for hot start issues, but they speak your language Kinarfi, not mine...

Rocmoc,

I know what you mean.

I sold my g/f, my one and only, a SWEET done up 2006 CBR Repsol that I danced with for three years all across the states. I gave it up to be where I am, no apologies.

However, the day will come when I have to return...

And my wife is warned that 24 hours will not pass before a repsol will be sitting and waiting for her first ride.

You can see a pic of her here:

http://www.pauldaytonscifi.com/who-is-this-paul-dayton-anyway.html

Kinarfi,

Every time i read your posts, I feel like I've drunk 5 too many beers. Obviously, you know FAR more about electrical systems than I every will.

Ok, so it seems to me that if I'm going to have to rebuild the motor anyway, a little Sneaky Pete setup on the 650 might be fun. I'm thinking something to top the dune at Comp Hill, that kind of thing.

Has anyone built a N2O system for a Joyner? I figured I'd drill and tap the bottom of the intake with Fogger nozzles, put the smallest jets available in and hit it halfway up.

Anyone done this?

You're crazy. But a good kind of crazy.

I've found here in Panama that bringing anything in REALLY helps. They could care less of the part number. A good mechanic will likely remember something that's similar or identical to what we have. However, it would be nice to have part numbers to simply order online...

Just happy to have you and your experience still with us. As you can see from my avatar, I also have other toys...

Anyone have any issues with starting the T2 once it's been running for a while?

Once the engine is hot, I regularly have to turn the key twice to get it going again. Once I do that, it fires up after two or three seconds. It'll never start on the first shot if it's hot. This is nothing major, but it is annoying.

I've tried tapping the gas on the initial shot, but that was a mistake. I'm guessing the mixture is slightly rich on the hot restart because of this, but I'm not sure.

Found this today, bought one and will be installing it on my T2. It's slightly too long, but perfect width wise and the price is right. I'm asking the supplier to cut it, hope he does...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360310179481?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Ahhh, so the kits come from you!

Great stuff, and nice instructions. I did use the 1/2 inch wrench for the reason you mentioned. The lockwashers worked fine though and with no clearance issues.

Now if we could only find out what Toyota Kinarfi got those spherical bearing washers from...

No problem bud. Thanks anyway. I'm not in any pinch, but it would be nice to have.

If you're not successful finding them, you can likely get a machine shop to make you some for cheap. They're real simple.

Rocmoc, you don't have any spherical spider gear washers laying around, do you? The one damaged one I have is usable, but considering my machine has only 1000 miles, I wouldn't mind having some spares.

I had to replace one of the spider shims also and was lucky enough to find a perfect replacement at a local drive line shop, He thought they came out of a toyota rear end.

I didn't bother with the lock nuts, just used lock tite.

Kinarfi

I figure you know this question is coming, but I'll ask it anyway in the hopes you might know but forgot to mention it:

What model Toyota was it? This is a pretty important part...

Thanks Lenny.

All nuts definitely contact the gear teeth, to the point I couldn't properly tighten some against the face. I did LT everything, including the nuts.

Once I go back home end of the year, I'll pass by my old job and make a few extra shims just in case. If I have a chance and am confident I can measure the rad properly, I'll make a mold and press new ones at work, leaving me with a few extra sets for any who might need them.

Well, while I wait for the new rear driveshaft, I decided to shim my rear diff with the ebay shim kit. All went well except for:

#1: One of the four spherical shims behind the spider gears was deeply scored. Anyone know if getting another one is even possible? Keep in mind that these shims keep the spider gears lined up with the drive gear. Any wear means a widening gap, leading to gear wear. I've upped the oil to a heavier grade, and will be drilling a larger oil hole in place of the 1/4" one there now.

I figure cutting a new shim out of shimstock and using the spider gear to shape it would probably work, but I'd still prefer to buy a new one. Likely that is near impossible.

#2 is minor: The 12 replacement nuts that lock the ring gear on interfere with the teeth. Buy 12 lockwashers before doing this mod. You also need a vernier or 1" mike, plus feeler guages, plus a bearing puller (with at least 3.5" clearance) to complete this job.

That's about it. Now for the front diff...

Yo bud, that's a sweet deal. What's up? Everything ok?

I agree with Rick. We felt you were talking about the front. If it is the rear that failed, by all means replace it. AND you were lucky if you did not damage the engine. Past failures of the rear driveline have punched a hole in the oil pan. Count your-self lucky. Sounds like you have one of the first Troopers. Other upgrades Team Joyner provided when they were still in buisness was bigger brake rotors and a red shift cable replacement. Also sooner or later your fuel tank sending unit will fail, no real replacement. The steering rack did not come with dust covers so water & mud can get in the rack. Good idea to get some if you are going to be driving in a lot of water & mud.

Note, when I replaced my REAR dirveline I cut the steel plate under the engine off to get access. I replaced with a bolt-on aluminum plate. The early Trooper had steel plate all weild under the Trooper. Later ones had bolt-on alumium under the entire underside.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Sorry about the misinfo, I thought I had mentioned it. Mine didn't come with the welded steel plate - it's all removable.

And you're right - my oil pan is dented, but not punctured. Noticed it as soon as I pulled the lower plate off.

What is 'Red shift cable'?

My steering rack has two CV style boots, square on one end. Is this the dust covers you were talking about? I'm in Panama. 8 months of the year I'm wallowing in mud

Thanks Lenny. I'll post pics of the old driveshaft and the new one once it comes so everyone can see the difference

Thanks Rocmoc, I gave them the part number so it should be all good. And at $154.99, I'd imagine it is the rear - the front is much longer and likely more expensive.

I'm curious myself. Price is right though.

I was told by Bryan at joyner-usa that the tranny half of the u joint will pop out with a slide hammer. Will work on that this week, together with shimming and redoing the rear diff. with the ebay kit.

Thanks for the update Exile. Does this go for the front driveshaft too?

Thanks Rocmoc! Does that mean I win an award?

FYI, I have just ordered a new driveshaft, and was told the replacement is 'CV' style, whatever that means. I guess I'll see in two weeks when it arrives...

And nearly left me stranded. I was able to winch/front wheel drive out of this impossible area, but just barely.

Question: The u-joint connecting to the tranny output shaft seems welded on. Is it or can it be removed? Also, anyone fabricate a driveshaft? Replacement is cheap - $150, but I'm in Panama and there's none in stock... FYI, the front U-joint (connected to tranny) is the one that went...

Any help would be deeply appreciated...

Awesome! My next job, as soon as I get the how-to from Rocmoc!

Thanks Kinarfi, I did pick that up on another thread.

Lenny, a question if you don't mind.

I've ordered new gauges and sending units from joyner - only because: finding quality gauges that don't cost $200 is near impossible, and because of the oil and water temp lights. I'm guessing both lights are tied into the sending units, but don't know. Does anyone else know? Can we use aftermarket gauges and still have use of the stock warning lights?

And, is there some way to tie in the handbrakes to the regular brakes and have use of both for parking and regular driving?