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About cheddarpecker

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  1. Yep, that's what the plate is there for, best just to take it easy. The average lift kit consists of spacers of one sort or another, and pushes the factory suspension geometry to the extreme, accelerating wear on ball joints, control arm bushings, CV shafts, and steering linkage.
  2. Howdy, y'all. When I searched for tech support online, I found nothing posted pertaining to replacing the water pump on the Mule 3000, with the FD620D Kawasaki twin, so I went ahead and tackled it. Parts diagrams don't show the primary housing in the way, and nobody seems to mention that you have to tear down the primary drive to get one of the bolts out of the cover. In order to follow that procedure, one must purchase the clutch removal tool, at a cost of around $40 plus shipping. To make your own tool, call around to your local bolt shops and ask for a 100mm length, M14x1.5 hardened bol
  3. It's easy enough to step up the holes and pop them out with any suitable self tapping screw. It's also just as easy to booger up the threads above the screws with the wrong driver, but I prefer instant access, without having to pop limiters off, or buying different screws. Under the plugs, a flat blade screwdriver will turn them just fine, so long as it isn't too wide for the recess. I have modified drivers for such purposes. I also don't like anyone telling me I can only turn an adjustment so much. There's a certain sense of pride involved in waving my finger at them.
  4. My, yes. I've already come to the conclusion. Typing "puller description " into google got me the specs, now just to buy the appropriately sized bolt and make a suitable arbor to go in before it. Kawasaki has never been at the top of my list, despite the fact that they managed to get into powered equipment in a way that Honda is still far behind. I was the John Deere service guy for some time, and got to play with lots of them, from the little singles on walk behind stuff, to the big fuelies in garden tractors. Have been, and always will be a fan of Honda motorcycles from the seventies. I fee
  5. You have to drill the plugs on top of the carb. Be careful, as if you go too far, you'll cheese the screw heads. If you've cleaned the carb and it's back on, just drill the plugs, run a wood screw in the hole, and pop it out with a pair of side cutters. Likely, all you need to do at this point is to back them out a bit until it idles high and even. Adjust adle after.
  6. I wasted the time to create an account. I think my question will go for years unanswered, after noting less than two pages of topics. Good thing I used a fake email to avoid future spam from third parties. Oh well, it was worth a shot.
  7. Okay, y'all, I went for the stupid looking bolt first, and sure enough, it backs out into the drive housing and goes no further. I guess this is a stupid question, but do I really have to remove the cover, belt, clutch, AND THE HOUSING? Pardon my frustration, but this should have been an hour job, and it makes me want to strangle someone in engineering. I'll thank anyone for a timely confirmation of the utterly obvious. I know this engine went in all kinds of machines, but they could have left me a hole with a plug in it behind it, or perhaps used a shorter bolt in this application. I'll hang

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