Quantcast
Jump to content

cheddarpecker

Members
  • Content Count

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About cheddarpecker

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • UTV Brand
    Kaw
  1. Yep, that's what the plate is there for, best just to take it easy. The average lift kit consists of spacers of one sort or another, and pushes the factory suspension geometry to the extreme, accelerating wear on ball joints, control arm bushings, CV shafts, and steering linkage.
  2. Howdy, y'all. When I searched for tech support online, I found nothing posted pertaining to replacing the water pump on the Mule 3000, with the FD620D Kawasaki twin, so I went ahead and tackled it. Parts diagrams don't show the primary housing in the way, and nobody seems to mention that you have to tear down the primary drive to get one of the bolts out of the cover. In order to follow that procedure, one must purchase the clutch removal tool, at a cost of around $40 plus shipping. To make your own tool, call around to your local bolt shops and ask for a 100mm length, M14x1.5 hardened bolt. Total cost should not exceed $10. After you've removed the clutch retaining bolt, insert a slightly smaller diameter steel punch that's 3 1/4-3 1/2 inches long. Lubricate the threads on the bolt and proceed with extreme caution, as the clutch is cast aluminum. In other words, don't pull it unless you absolutely have to. But hey, I'm just replacing the water pump. Why should I have to do all this? Because the engine was designed and then applied. Little details like this escape engineering departments all the time. Irritated? You have every right to be. Now you can give Kawasaki a gesture I'm sure they're pretty familiar with. After all, some of us don't wave with all of our fingers, at least not every time. Remove the in frame breather duct by pulling the one bracket bolt in the floor, the clamp to the tube, and the clamp on the primary housing. Remove as an assembly. Remove the bolts around the primary cover and pull it out through the frame in front of the tire. Angle is key, it will slip right out. Don't bother with the exhaust or heat shield unless you like drilling broken hardware. Remove one primary case mounting bolt, located at one o'clock, just above the clutch. I used a 4" angle grinder to take down the ridge in the immediate area, and finished it with a sharp chisel. You'll be drilling a half inch hole just above the rubber isolator, perhaps 1/32" to the left of the center of the bushing. I felt it out with my fingertips before drilling a 3/16" pilot hole. Use your bit to open up the hole in all directions, until you can fit your 1/4" 10mm socket through it, and remove the bolt from said poorly thought out location. But wait, there's another bolt that won't come out now. It's in the very back, and only goes so far. Do I need to drill again? No, just pop the pump out and the bolt will come with it. Mark it, bag it, or otherwise set it apart so it can go back in the same hole. After you've cleaned the gasket surface and installed your new pump, you're left with an open hole in the primary case. Places like Harbor Freight Tools sell rubber plug assortments pretty cheap, and should you ever need to replace the pump again, it's as simple as removing the plug and the bolt. Otherwise, there are numerous varieties of mix-in-hand epoxy putties that can be formed into the hole and knocked out again later. So the dealer wants you to bring it in and pay an exorbitant amount to go through what's likely the same process I've described above. Having worked as a flat rate tech in a dealership before, I know what kind of cheese gets by, and this is mild in comparison. This way, the tech can flag three hours for an hour and a half job at best. I'm sure some can turn this out in an hour, but you'll still pay face value by the book. Some don't care, it's only money, and someone else's hands get dirty. For everyone else, there you are.
  3. It's easy enough to step up the holes and pop them out with any suitable self tapping screw. It's also just as easy to booger up the threads above the screws with the wrong driver, but I prefer instant access, without having to pop limiters off, or buying different screws. Under the plugs, a flat blade screwdriver will turn them just fine, so long as it isn't too wide for the recess. I have modified drivers for such purposes. I also don't like anyone telling me I can only turn an adjustment so much. There's a certain sense of pride involved in waving my finger at them.
  4. My, yes. I've already come to the conclusion. Typing "puller description " into google got me the specs, now just to buy the appropriately sized bolt and make a suitable arbor to go in before it. Kawasaki has never been at the top of my list, despite the fact that they managed to get into powered equipment in a way that Honda is still far behind. I was the John Deere service guy for some time, and got to play with lots of them, from the little singles on walk behind stuff, to the big fuelies in garden tractors. Have been, and always will be a fan of Honda motorcycles from the seventies. I feel that by the eighties, they were all washed up, everyone, with Suzuki topping the turd list, followed by Yamaha, then Kawasaki. Unfortunately, I think the EPA had the most to do with it, of course the public didn't have to buy that junk, but the alternative was American made, and nobody with any sense would have anything to do with Hardly Ableson.
  5. You have to drill the plugs on top of the carb. Be careful, as if you go too far, you'll cheese the screw heads. If you've cleaned the carb and it's back on, just drill the plugs, run a wood screw in the hole, and pop it out with a pair of side cutters. Likely, all you need to do at this point is to back them out a bit until it idles high and even. Adjust adle after.
  6. I wasted the time to create an account. I think my question will go for years unanswered, after noting less than two pages of topics. Good thing I used a fake email to avoid future spam from third parties. Oh well, it was worth a shot.
  7. Okay, y'all, I went for the stupid looking bolt first, and sure enough, it backs out into the drive housing and goes no further. I guess this is a stupid question, but do I really have to remove the cover, belt, clutch, AND THE HOUSING? Pardon my frustration, but this should have been an hour job, and it makes me want to strangle someone in engineering. I'll thank anyone for a timely confirmation of the utterly obvious. I know this engine went in all kinds of machines, but they could have left me a hole with a plug in it behind it, or perhaps used a shorter bolt in this application. I'll hang around, but soon, I suppose I'll be tearing down half the machine to get at one poorly placed bolt. Has anyone done this? I can't find one mention of it online.


×
×
  • Create New...