Jump to content


Mule 3000 Water Pump Removal Made Easy

Recommended Posts

Howdy, y'all.

When I searched for tech support online, I found nothing posted pertaining to replacing the water pump on the Mule 3000, with the FD620D Kawasaki twin, so I went ahead and tackled it. Parts diagrams don't show the primary housing in the way, and nobody seems to mention that you have to tear down the primary drive to get one of the bolts out of the cover. In order to follow that procedure, one must purchase the clutch removal tool, at a cost of around $40 plus shipping.

To make your own tool, call around to your local bolt shops and ask for a 100mm length, M14x1.5 hardened bolt. Total cost should not exceed $10. After you've removed the clutch retaining bolt, insert a slightly smaller diameter steel punch that's 3 1/4-3 1/2 inches long. Lubricate the threads on the bolt and proceed with extreme caution, as the clutch is cast aluminum. In other words, don't pull it unless you absolutely have to.

But hey, I'm just replacing the water pump. Why should I have to do all this? Because the engine was designed and then applied. Little details like this escape engineering departments all the time. Irritated? You have every right to be.

Now you can give Kawasaki a gesture I'm sure they're pretty familiar with. After all, some of us don't wave with all of our fingers, at least not every time.

Remove the in frame breather duct by pulling the one bracket bolt in the floor, the clamp to the tube, and the clamp on the primary housing. Remove as an assembly. Remove the bolts around the primary cover and pull it out through the frame in front of the tire. Angle is key, it will slip right out. Don't bother with the exhaust or heat shield unless you like drilling broken hardware.

Remove one primary case mounting bolt, located at one o'clock, just above the clutch. I used a 4" angle grinder to take down the ridge in the immediate area, and finished it with a sharp chisel. You'll be drilling a half inch hole just above the rubber isolator, perhaps 1/32" to the left of the center of the bushing. I felt it out with my fingertips before drilling a 3/16" pilot hole. Use your bit to open up the hole in all directions, until you can fit your 1/4" 10mm socket through it, and remove the bolt from said poorly thought out location.

But wait, there's another bolt that won't come out now. It's in the very back, and only goes so far. Do I need to drill again?

No, just pop the pump out and the bolt will come with it. Mark it, bag it, or otherwise set it apart so it can go back in the same hole.

After you've cleaned the gasket surface and installed your new pump, you're left with an open hole in the primary case. Places like Harbor Freight Tools sell rubber plug assortments pretty cheap, and should you ever need to replace the pump again, it's as simple as removing the plug and the bolt. Otherwise, there are numerous varieties of mix-in-hand epoxy putties that can be formed into the hole and knocked out again later.

So the dealer wants you to bring it in and pay an exorbitant amount to go through what's likely the same process I've described above. Having worked as a flat rate tech in a dealership before, I know what kind of cheese gets by, and this is mild in comparison. This way, the tech can flag three hours for an hour and a half job at best. I'm sure some can turn this out in an hour, but you'll still pay face value by the book.

Some don't care, it's only money, and someone else's hands get dirty. For everyone else, there you are.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

About to give it a go. I have to do the timing Case gasket behind water pump, so the whole case has to come off anyway. Do you need heat on the shaft to help ease clutch off? Thanks

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Honda533
      Machine sat and had multiple rodent chews thru out the wiring that we fixed.  Also replaced the Following: ECU, Coil and Plug Wire, small Control Box that contains fuses and relays.  Pick Up coil test at 219 ohms which is typically good on most machines but i can't find the specific manual on this thing to get the spec.  Battery good, cranks fine but the fuel pump doesn't prime or run and no spark.  Tested pump with direct 12volts and it works.  If we supply a ground to the pump it primes and works but still no spark.  We have traced all wiring including grounding and all is good. Tested key switch.  I has (4) positions.  1 - off, 2 - does nothing, 3 - powers up everything (lighting and odometer and powers ECU, 4 - starts engine.  The key switch only has 3 wires. 12v in from battery and 2 - 12v out which is power to the system and send 12v to starter relay coil.
      Are these electrical systems actually switching the grounds on and off vs the traditional switching the 12v+ on and off.  
      at my wits end with this thing. 
      Also when we figure this problem out we will post the solution.  seems 90% of people that ask for help on these forums, never post the fix which make this pointless.
    • By Kyle LeBouef
      Any suggestions to remove the primary clutch without purchasing the manufacturer's tool?
    • By Travis
      scared me all the way to death and back.
    • By Hammer
      We have a new Mule Pro FX LE EPS.  It has the manual dump bed and looking to add some type of electric lift to it.  Even with a small load, two people can't dump it by hand.  Seems kind of a bad design, hinge point and the hydraulic strut assist is too far towards the back.  Been looking at electric actuators on ebay.  For those that have done this, do you put the actuator in place of the strut?  How does it work?  To me, I would think even with a 400lb actuator, it might struggle since it would be so far back.  Thinking of putting it towards the front more.  But not sure of the best place to mount it.  And would I need a super long stroke to get it to raise the bed all the way? 
    • By Regretting my choices
      Hello.  I purchased this unit as a "non runner" with the intent of using the frame to build a go-cart, but once I got it home it seemed way to good to part out.  The motor cranks over, and I have spark, but no fuel.  If I put a little fuel in the cylinder it fires up until that fuel is burnt, then of course it dies.  The fuel pump is not running and I have removed the plug and there is no power going to it.  I have checked the safety switch on the brake pedal and its fine, I have checked the fuses, all good, but am not sure where to go from here. The shifter is missing on the unit, but the indicator light on the dash shows its in neutral, and the e-brake indicator switch is working as well.  I am thinking of jumping power to the fuel pump next to see if it runs and if the motor will start.
      What am I missing?  What can stop the fuel pump from getting power to it?
just get it
  • Create New...