Quantcast
Jump to content

4 dog knight

Members
  • Content Count

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

4 dog knight last won the day on October 19 2013

4 dog knight had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About 4 dog knight

  • Rank
    Newbie

Profile Information

  • UTV Brand
    Mule

Recent Profile Visitors

2,318 profile views
  1. Ultimately I did mount a 2 in. receiver to the front frame and made a pivoting snowplow to plow my 650 ft. Driveway. I found some V-bar chains on Amazon for about $35 and put 7 seventy pound sand bags in the back for traction. Plowed my drive all winter and it worked AMAZINGLY well for a 2WD! I got stuck twice when I got too close to the edge of the driveway. All I had to do was shovel out the snow around the tires and drove out! My cloth cab and Radiator heater mods allowed me to plow in great comfort, warm enough so I couldn't see my breathe at some pretty cold temps. Read my heater post on this site for more details on that mod.
  2. Mine is on the vertical tube next to the radiator on a small plate welded to the tube, on the drivers side. Unfortunately, it is also where the radiator cover rubs and it's made it hard to read. I sanded it off, wiped on some black paint and then gently wiped the paint off of the surface so the paint would hang in the stamped Model/Serial number.
  3. Steffen, I'm NOT an electrical guru...but the unit running the starter by itself says shorted ignition switch. Something has to be completing that circuit and it almost has to be the switch, unless there is a short in the wiring loom somewhere? The Dead battery might also be from a result of it shorting out and trying to start itself. Gotta be a dead short in there somewhere. I'd try testing the switch with a VOM by checking continuity in the different switch positions. Then isolate the the switch functions with some jumpers and see if it will start. I'd fully charge the battery overnight on a low amp settting. 2 amps should be okay. Then I would try jumping the starter with the battery and some cables to make sure it's functioning. I still think it's the switch.
  4. I hope this will help others, as I'm obviously too late on the initial request! I purchased a couple of inexpensive boat seats (under $20 ea. on sale) that fold down. I will mount them on a couple of 1 in. sq. tubing crossbars that have a inverted U welded to the end to I can drop them into place on the box side for a quick in and out. Also, the old bus seats I rode as a youngster to school look like they might also be a good fit. I think the newer ones have much higher backs for safety, so look for an old bus!
  5. Check out a product called FuelMedics. It works like the Stabil...but also works really well on oxygenated/ethanol based fuels.
  6. Will, I went thru a similar predicament, but mine was a broken internal case where the shifter shaft went thru the top of the case. I tried welding it but that didn't work because the hole was too elongated. If I had access to a milling machine it could've been bored straight and had a bushing inserted. My gears were in fine shape...it was just not able to shift into place due to the sloppy shaft. One other critical issue is that you get the idle down below 900 RPM or it won't want to drop into gear. The driven clutch is spinning over pretty fast to slide those gears into place if the idle is too high. These things will idle down to nothing if the carb is clean, etc. You may adjust the shifter cable to put more pressure on the cable. Unfortunately, it "pushes" the cable into forward, while pulling it into reverse. You can adjust it to a point where it won't clear the nuetral notch in the dashboard if you go too far. It also won't start, as it needs to sense the nuetral shifter position. I did have to replace my cable, as it was too wippy and wouldn't push the shifter shaft into the proper position. Good Luck!
  7. Nice mods. I'm a "thrifty outfitter" myself. Harbor Freight has some down and dirty pricing on Winches and hitch adapters, etc. I'm thining I want to add a 2" receiver to each end and then mount my winch on a 2" tube and a mounting plate. That way I can move it to either end if needed.
  8. EZ heater for a Mule 2520 My first post here, but I thought I'd share this as I think it has some merit. I did a quick Mule Heater search but nothing came up. I live in N. MN. and will use my Mule to plow my 650 ft. driveway. Just got it running after 3 yrs. of dorking around with a broken transmission case and then two blown head gaskets. (Kept trying to "get all the air out of the cooling system" to now avail!!!) So, I found a cloth "cab" online and put it on and then began thinking about how I was going to keep the windshield from icing up. I looked at After Market heaters and they are EX-PEN-SIVE! I did find what appeared to be a good solution for around $200, but still didn't want to part with that much cash. (my wife sez i'm CHEAP...I prefer to think I am thrifty) So I started thinking...with a rear engine and a front mounted radiator there shouldn't be any kind of engine contaminents in the air coming thru the radiator...so why not use THAT as my heater core? I'd been having trouble with the radiator mounted fan switch anyway and I wanted to pull that to troubleshoot it. I pulled the right front wheel off and the side panel next to the radiator and then removed the radiator. I guess you could do it without removing the side panel and wheel, but it's just four phillips head screws and you gain so much more light and visibility. I cautiously bored four 2 1/2 in. holes in open spots on the fire wall/floor boards directly in line with the radiator, carefully checking before I completely bored thru to make sure I wasn't going to hit any wiring our anything crucial. Now, when the cooling fan comes on it blows nice warm air in thru all the holes and works GREAT! I had actually purchased some 12v. computer cooling fans to screw to the firewall to pull more air thru, but the the radiator fan blows plenty of heat and moves much air. Maybe I'll need to add the fans for colder weather running. I was thinking I may need to "duct" one of the holes thru the fiberglass dash and up toward the windshield to de-fog that, but so far so good, so I will wait on that as well for colder weather testing. I did stuff some weather stripping foam around some of the larger gaps in the area around the radiator. I also cut some 1/2" plywood and screwed it to the bottom side of the frame under the seat area and vertically ahead of the engine compartment to inimize outside air infiltration. (it also quieted the engine noise down as well!) I can buy some 2 1/2" computer desk plugs to cover the floorboard holes for summer operation, but for now it's working exceptionally well, toasty warm in the cab at around 20 degrees outside temps. Windows aren't fogging or anything. I can only speak for the 2500 series, but I'm wondering if this low-cost mod won't work for other models as well?


×
×
  • Create New...