ERV JR

After 4 years of storage I drug the trooper out and serviced it . Did a few hot laps and remembered what a rough ride it had. So I read a post there are take off shocks from other utvs that work on the rear , but no details so what do I look for and what brand fronts hace most used ? I looked into Foa and also fox years back then let it collect dust. My wife says I should trade it for  an xj or a suburban or k5 and build a crawler since we have 4 kids. I was with her on the idea last week then yesterday I took it for a spin and had a blast.

I know its been talked about before , but after not using the trooper in 2 years I am going to drag it out of storage. Are there other options for shocks out there not any type of take offs from other utvs that can be adapted to the front ? I will have to rebuild the trailing arm mounts, mount arms in double sheer and new bolts. May halso have to replace rear spindle bolts.And diff upgrades But really want to upgrade shock since ride quality is bad.

did you try a wet compression test or just a dry ? BTW if you ane not sure what a wet is I will explain. First off are you disconnecting the fuel pump relay ? If you leave it in the injectors can wash the cylinder down.

Try a wet test, jake a cap full of oil,or the old oil cans with the pump and tip and squirt a few shots of oil and then spin it over with the gauge in it. Th oil will seal up the rings.

Also a compression test should be done at operating temp due to expansion, mind you I have done them cold also. You could warm it up then recheck it

The fab work is not a problem, I have my own shop where I retore and build hot rods and race cars. I also have a job as a union mechanic and have worked at honda,chevy,Mercedes Benz dealers as a tech.

I was actually thinking of just buying a turbo and not the kit, then either doing a log style exhaust or building a header

ARE YOU USING AN FMU ? or what are you using for fuel control , also do you still have the stock fuel pump ? I have considering building a turbo kit for mine .

something to check is is the bolts where the trailing arm mounts to the frame and the bolts for the spindles. I know mine are aorn and loose. I noticed it when replacing the shock I was able to grab the arm and wiggle it around,also the bolt for the shock was worn and had almost an offset to it.

The quality of the bolts seems poor and wear alot ,so it could be a combonation of spindle and trailing arm bolts worn and causing problems.

When I get the chance I wil put it back on my hoist and replace the bolts check the mounting brackets to see if holes are oval and mount the arm in double sheer.

buy a used motorhome, late 80's early 90's class a or c. then tow a open trailer. Well thats my plan anyway

the law requires riders to wear helmets, no aftermarket backseats allowed passangers must be able to touch the floor. But its states that its for rigs with under 1000cc's. I really hope it dose not apply to the troopers

EVR, You should never have to give fuel to a fuel injected engine if it is running correctly. The computer should make the adjustment for you.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

no the pump runs of a few seconds then turns off til the engine is started but with the pump acting up it bleeds off the pressure that was in the system, I tested it with a gauge. I myself worked in the automive, heavy equipment and fab field. I have a good understanding of computer controled engines and what the sensors do how systems operate. I also have agood understanding of fuel systems and hp requirments and design, I have build many drag cars and done plenty of fuel systems at my shop. My point is that you dont alot of pump to supply a small engine that sees 5k rpm, the pump should be gravity fed also. Yeah you could slap an Areomotive A1000 pump on it but its going to return most to tank and create heat since its moving the fuel so much

these people are stupid who built these things. Why mount the filter higher than the pickup point ? I know most of you have changed that on yours and I will do so after this weekends trip. Also its a bad idea to run the return right next to the outlet bung as it can cause cavatation of the pump. My list of changes and repairs gets longer but I dont have time ,and only work on it until its time to take it out lol

I replaced the pump tonight , so its now a 5/16 line from the filter to the pump

I bought the Airtex E2000 tonight and put it on, set pressure to 50 psi and took it for a few blasts down the street and around th eshop parking lot a few times, running really well and also starts easier. I dont have to hold the gas pedal down anymore. I got the pump with my wholesale account for $56.99. I am happy

Thanks ERV JR for the referience. I checked on the specks on that pump and by what I found the are not as good as the stock pump. Free flow 30gph, 70psi thru the regulator. I want to increase both because I'am having some problems with the engine not getting enough fuel and if I want to modify my engine later it needs to be enough to cover the mods.

it says the min flow is 30 gph @70 psi, if pump output is @ max 40gph that they list you will flow 40 gph, the regulator will return most of the fuel. These little 1100cc engines dont need that voloume, look at the regulator they have 1/4npt barbed fittings, the id is small and those wont flow very much. If the pump flows enough volume to keep the engine happy and the pressure can be regulated down its fine.

I found these AMERICAN MADE pumps at Summit Auto. MSD 2225 43gph, 70psi,$105.95 Trick Flow TPS 25004P 43gph, 85psi ,$84.95 Airtex 110-E8248 70gph, 120psi $123.95. I think I'am going with the Airtex more than enough for any application and with a return in the system no worries with to much fuel. It also is a vain style pump a much more efficent pump.

I found an airtex e2000, autozone has them for 89.99, and carter also has a cross over part number for that.

ok I got the new fuel filter in today and see what you mean about the goofy line stuff inside the other

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Airtex-Master-Fuel-Pump/_/N-8vcz2?itemIdentifier=386516_0_0_

heres a link

So i have been having fuel pump problems and decided to find a new pump as the others are trash . I found an Airtex and carter pump, will pickup the airtex in a day or 2

airtex # e2000 autozone price $89.99

pepboys also has a carter pump that the number crosses to ,american made

the check ball is there to maintain line pressure /fuel in the fuel rail. Without it you may have to cycle the key a few times to build fuel pressure and have longer cranking times

Never done it that way but have heard others have. My main concern is to give it time enough to assure that all the gas that that may be hidden in the cracks of the seams has had time to evaporate out. Thanks for the input.

Lenny

thats the point of back purdgeing with argon or running a hose to a tailpipe of a running car

That's interesting because that is exactely what I plan to do to mine. I now have it out and I'm letting a fan run air through it for a few hours to get rid of any fumes. Should get it welded and back in this afternboon.

Lenny

you can fill it with argon to back prudge it, or hook it to the exhaust of you car for awhile then weld it

Mine cracked a few years back, I took it in under the extended warranty, The replacment tank had small triangle gussets welded to the tube and tank

I thought about it after I left to disneyland yeaterday and I posted that incorrectly, the inlet on the pump was large and the filter inlet was small with a large outlet.Pretty stupid,and goes against everything ever said about fuel system design. Normally you run 1 size larger on the inlet to the pump ,say -8 to the pump and -6 from pump to regulator,so as not to starve the pump and prevent cavatation (sp)

anyone have a part# for a replacment fuel filter ? I found the fram number listed in the parts section but its not correct , maybe for earlier units.

MY inlet port is around 3/4 in dia an that other one was eithe 5/16 or 3/8.

I knew that molly could be mig welded and actually it is not any harder then welding the others. Also if mig welded correctly, less heat is added because of the speed of laydown travel. I am under the understanding that heat treating is only needed on the thicker wall stuff as it can chill a weld area quicker. The thinner wall stuff doesn't need it if welded correctly. I tiged my DOM cage. Now if I could just be younger so I could see it better and not shake, I wouldn't have to keep re-pointing the tungston. Gosh i went through four 6" tungstons In the process. Should have been less then one.

Lenny

It seems that im the youngest in the bunch of trooper owners ,lol @ 29 . I actually mig welded my rear cage, did a bit of tig on it but decided time was better spent bending tubing than welding one joint

It is not DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing. If it was, it wouldn't have the weld seam sticking out on the inside. DOM tubing it much stronger then ERW (electric resistance welded) tubing. DOM, alloy 1020, has a tensil strength of aprox. 80,000lbs/square inch and a yeild strength of aprox. 70,000lbs where as ERW is 45,000 and 32,000 respectively. Also DOM is going to have a wall thickness that is consistant within a couple of thousands of an inch. DOM is commonly used for building vehicle frames and rollbars. Alloy 1020 is easier to find then 1026 but 1026 is about 10,000lbs stronger. Both DOM and ERW weld fine. I used DOM 1020 to redo my roll cage and doors recently as I was unable to find the 1026 in the size and wall thicknesses I needed. The other option for frames would be 4130 Chromoly tubing which is what higher tech race vehicles are made with. It has strengths of aprox 110,000 and 90,000 respectively. It also welds fineand is the most expensive but usually requires heat treating after welding to eliminate brittle weld spots. Joyner used the cheaper stuff. I'll be posting my roll cage project shortly.

Lenny

Actually DOM is about the same price as molly,atleast in 1 5/8 dia, also chassis shops are not heat treating molly after welding, for the cage to cert for Nhra the cage needs to be tig welded. You will find most people using ER70S-2 which has a tensile streangth of 70,000. some guys use er80 others will use stainless. Consider that the streangth is less than that of the base metal but you are also making a filliet weld . None the less look at aircraft they are migwelding molly, dessert cars are often molly but migwelded due to the time involved .

But Tig welding allows better heat control and if done correctly reduces the HAZ (heat affected zone) or the base metal.