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Mikey last won the day on October 25 2019

Mikey had the most liked content!

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About Mikey

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/21/1956
  • Location Pleasant Prairie, WI, USA

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  1. @Travis Hi Travis, Many thanks but I put it in a big press and finally got it to come apart. The spline connection was really corroded from sitting I think outside in the rain. The split ring is there but on the other side of the spider. i have a lot of cleaning to do but I think it will be a good clutch when I am done. Many thanks for the help once again!
  2. @Travis Many thanks for the quick reply. I am dissassembling a used and "supposedly" good clutch. Mine looks exactly like the exploded view you sent. I did check my manual as you suggested and I don't see the 2 pieces of 92022 split ring in my clutch making me think that maybe they are missing. However my spider (49050) seems frozen to the thin sheave shaft (59302). I sprayed the spline well with penetrating oil and hit it pretty hard with a hammer but the splined shaft will not budge from the spider. I hate to ruin the clutch as they are quite expensive and I was happy to get this "working
  3. I am trying to dissassemble my primarty clutch. I removed the obvious bolts and separated the main mechanisim cover from the body of the clutch but I cannot see how to separate the thin sheave from the body of the clutch. I am guessing it is threaded to the splined shaft. Not sure if it is a right hand or a left hand thread. Anybody have a source for dissassembly instructions? I already tried Youtube with no results. Many thanks, Mike
  4. Just found this item on line which looks like it will accomplish what I want. It is made by coupersproducts.com http://coupersproducts.com/ice-crusher-maxstat-inline-coolant-bypass-thermostat-for-utv-heaters/ It provides a second inline thermostat that prevents cooling water from flowing anywhere else besides the cab heater until that circuit needs the additional cooling of the radiator. Simular product available on Ebay for less money. https://www.ebay.com/i/162600036184?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=162600036184&targetid
  5. I would like to install a water to air cab heater in my 2500 but cannot see how to tap into the cooling system so the heater will have flow from the engine water pump except when the thermostat is open. Does anybody know if the factory heater has some kind of thermostat adapter that lets hot water circulate through the engine and the cab heater core before the thermostat opens? Unless I can solve this water flow problem it seem pointless to install a cab heater if it will just have intermittent water flow when the thermostat is open. I did buy a $66 Mr. Heater MH4GC Golf Cart Propane Hea
  6. @Travis Thanks Travis, Yes, all figured out and back on the trail again. I stumbled accross https://www.powersportsnation.com/ while looking at ebay ads and found a good condition $40 master cylinder from them. It arrived in only two days. I disassembled it, cleaned it, reassembled it and installed it. Works like new again. While in there I found my brake pedal return torsion spring was broken so ordered a new one off eBay that arrived today for installation tomorrow. All good. Thanks for the follow up. Mike
  7. @Travis You are correct. I did not notice that. However since it is a pressurized oiling system it probably won't matter. Certainly complicates a proper dipstick set up. These things are always more complicated than it seems they should be. Thanks for your comments.
  8. Does anybody know if a kawasaki FD440V engine will interchange with an FD620D? It looks like the same engine from the outside but has an internal governer which you would not need to connect and a different crank output side so maybe you could swap cranks or have the FD440V splined at a machine shop. It is 15HP instead of 20 HP which isn't great but is probably plenty of power for most applications, so I am assuming it has a different bore size but you can pick them up for cheap. I don't need an engine now but would like to have a spare on the shelf. The FD440V is used in John Deere rider mow
  9. @Travis Thanks. Yes it is a Nissin master cylinder (MC) with an 11/16" bore. I decided to buy a used MC from an later model Mule. It is diferent than mine in that the push rod is detached from the piston in the MC. On my MC the push rod is one with the piston in the MC which is a bad design as it will tend to cock the piston in its bore during brake application. I am hoping the newer designed MC will fit my 2500 or that I can modify the push rod to work while keeping it detached from the piston. $40 on ebay. I did find some Nissin rebuild kids but these were $40 or more and did not seem to mat
  10. My master cylinder is leaking from the rod that goes to brake pedal. I had planed on replacing it with a new one as I had routinely seen them on eBay for $109 but now that I need one the cheapest used cykinder is $134. Does anybody know where I might find a seal kit for the cylinder? Are all Mule cylinder's 11/16" diameter?
  11. @Travis Funny you should ask. Just fired her up today. Runs great. Over boring the one cylinder cured the oil buring problem. The only real problem I had was the place that overbored the one cylinder quoted me $110 over the phone, then when I got there after driving 1.5 hours, they said it would be $227 but gave no explanation why. Then when my neighbor picked it up for me when he was up that way, they charged my credit card $457 to bore an hone one lousey cylinder. I tried contacting them twice and they do not return my calls so I am disputing the charge on my credit card which should t
  12. 1. What does the pressure switch (see pic) with one wire going to it do? I don't see an oil pressure idiot light so it must supply ground when seeing no oil pressure to either the fuel pump or the ignition. Does anyone know which system it interrupts? My fuel pump is bad so I am converting to a vacuum fuel pump but don't want to loose the no oil pressure warning feature. I could wire this pressure switch to the over temp light on the dash since I replaced this with a digital temp guage so the over temp dash light is unused at the moment. 2. Inside the crankcase, under the oil pump
  13. @Travis Thanks for all the effort. I think maybe you are right that it was an option becuase it sure looks like a factory installation. I thought that all the water cooled Mules came with an over temp warning light as standard though???? Anyhow another member directed me to a great website bulbtown.com and I was able to identify two possibilites and ordered them both. If you are willing and your dealer can add any info I would love to have it but if not I think it's likely that I have a solution coming in the mail soon. I fished in Canada this June with a guy from Conroe. I liv
  14. @tfisher15 Many thanks. That particular bulb is too big in diameter but that is a teriffic website for bulbs. I hunted around it and ordered two possibilities that I'm almost certain one of them will work. Thanks for your help!!! Mike
  15. @Travis Yes, in the top right corner. Close up pic shows the housing that these two of the same bulb, are located in.

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