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Mikey last won the day on August 12

Mikey had the most liked content!

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About Mikey

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  • Birthday 09/21/1956
  • Location Pleasant Prairie, WI, USA

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  1. @Travis Funny you should ask. Just fired her up today. Runs great. Over boring the one cylinder cured the oil buring problem. The only real problem I had was the place that overbored the one cylinder quoted me $110 over the phone, then when I got there after driving 1.5 hours, they said it would be $227 but gave no explanation why. Then when my neighbor picked it up for me when he was up that way, they charged my credit card $457 to bore an hone one lousey cylinder. I tried contacting them twice and they do not return my calls so I am disputing the charge on my credit card which should turn out alright for me. So its all good. I used the time to paint her up, convert my electric fuel pump to a vacuum one, install a digital water temp guage and wire what was the hi temp light to now be a low oil pressure light. I found a windshield and roof on FB Marketplace for $50 so will install those itmes too along with new tires and LED lighting. Will be good as new for hunting this November in PA.
  2. 1. What does the pressure switch (see pic) with one wire going to it do? I don't see an oil pressure idiot light so it must supply ground when seeing no oil pressure to either the fuel pump or the ignition. Does anyone know which system it interrupts? My fuel pump is bad so I am converting to a vacuum fuel pump but don't want to loose the no oil pressure warning feature. I could wire this pressure switch to the over temp light on the dash since I replaced this with a digital temp guage so the over temp dash light is unused at the moment. 2. Inside the crankcase, under the oil pump cover, sits a spring over a steel ball. See pics. This must regulate oil pump pressure. It seems odd to me that there is a gap between the spring and the oil pump cover. Does this gap seem correct? I guess that it could be to insure some zero pressure flow before it gets reduced by the spring???? I don't recall ever seeing another set up with a gap though. Many thanks, Mike
  3. @Travis Thanks for all the effort. I think maybe you are right that it was an option becuase it sure looks like a factory installation. I thought that all the water cooled Mules came with an over temp warning light as standard though???? Anyhow another member directed me to a great website bulbtown.com and I was able to identify two possibilites and ordered them both. If you are willing and your dealer can add any info I would love to have it but if not I think it's likely that I have a solution coming in the mail soon. I fished in Canada this June with a guy from Conroe. I lived in Houston for a year in 1993. Thanks again.
  4. @tfisher15 Many thanks. That particular bulb is too big in diameter but that is a teriffic website for bulbs. I hunted around it and ordered two possibilities that I'm almost certain one of them will work. Thanks for your help!!! Mike
  5. @Travis Yes, in the top right corner. Close up pic shows the housing that these two of the same bulb, are located in.
  6. Does anybody know where to get one of these bulbs? It is the one that lights up when the park brake is applied. Same as the one that lights up when the engine is over temperature. I have checked several places locally without success. Thanks, Mike
  7. @Travis Thanks. What a great feature. Thanks for showing it to me. I'm a little slow.
  8. @Travis Thanks but when I click on the link I don't see any models listed I just see what is in the screenshot below.
  9. My steering column bushings are worn out. I can't find replacement bushings but I can find used columns on Ebay. I would like to buy a newer one so I do not just buy another worn out one. Does anybody know what other year columns will fit a 1999 Mule 2500? Or, perhaps if the bushings on other year columns will fit my column then I could swap out the newer bushings? Thanks, Mike
  10. @Travis Well yes. The usual machine shop experience. Lots of big ego people that pretend to know everything but do not know why they say what they do. First he told me I had coated aluminum cylinder walls and he had to strip them before boring until I proved to him with a magnet that I did not. Then he said I would ruin the engine by only boring only one and not both cylinders but of course could not explain why. He finally agreed to do what I wanted then decided the price for boring one cylinder would be $227 instead of the $116 I was told over the phone. Like I said, the usual machine shop experience. Next I will be bugging them to get it done in the two weeks he promised which I am certain he will run late on. Lots of other things to work on in the mean time.
  11. @Travis Thanks. The piston comes with the bore info per pic. Looks like bore needs to be 76.50mm or .050mm larger than piston diameter.
  12. Finished the cracked hood / cowl repair. I roughed up the plastic surface with a wire wheel, cut a piece of metal much larger than the crack, roughed up the metal surfase with a cut off wheel then bonded the two together with Bondo's Bumper Repair Kit from Amazon. Looks good but only time will tell if it will hold up.
  13. No I do not have any specs. I ordered the manuals and they are due tomorrow.
  14. On further inspection of the cylinder walls after dingleberry honing (which worked really great by the way) I saw one cylinder wall has some distress most likely caused by water sitting in the cylinder of a year or more. It was difficult to see withou tmagnification but it was there and it was significant. So I will receive one .020" oversize piston tomorrow then run the new piston and block up to Millenium Technologies in Plymouth, WI to overbore the bad cylinder. I'm sure this is where the oil burning was coming from. Regarding the 295psi compression test the only area of heavy carbon deposits or any deposits in the cylinder for that matter was in the dimples of the exhaust valves. They were complete filled in. Now that they are cleaned out and I am anxious to take another reading. I used this down time to clean and coat the inside of the gas tank, bleed brakes, install new tires and repaint. Looks like the engine will go back together the first week of Sep and I should be back on the road by mid Sep. Will install a windshield and roof top too. Thanks for the follow up. Mike
  15. @Travis Many thanks again. Will do. Also, thanks for the psot the other day about kawasakipartshouse.com. That is where I bought my engine repair parts from. Good prices. Shipping isn;t the fastest becuase I guess they do not stock the items themselves but not bad. A good value. Thanks again, Mike

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