Neil Wilson

Actually I just replaced both switches which had deteriorated. The pump is working fine as can be shown by the pressure at the injector rail.

One more clue may be the PCV. The previous owner has disconnected the hoses to the fuel recovery canister. The ends of the hoses are plugged. The PCV is still connected to the wire harness so as far as I know it is still providing a functional signal to the ECU. Since the problem is intermittent I can't see why the engine would ever function properly if there were a problem here. Why would it work sometimes and not others?

As far as I can tell all the grounds look solid at the battery and chassis by the ECU. I don't know where else to check. What do you recommend?

I am wondering about the fuel pump relay. The previous owner bypassed the pump and fan relays and hotwired them to toggle switches. This was because he had problems with corrosion in the fuse box. In my review of the ECU and injector system I see the injectors are wired to the pump relay. I don't understand why. I don't know if there is a way to test the relay or the circuit. Any ideas? PS, I am getting good pressure at the injector rail so I know the pump and pressure regulator are doing their jobs.

Still can't figure out what is wrong. I've recently replaced the ECU and the IAT/MAP sensor but the problem persists (I have also ordered a CO2 sensor but it hasn't arrived yet). I've replaced the fuel pump and have tested the pressure and checked the injectors so I know it is not a fuel issue. I know it has spark. I know it has air (bypassed the air filter). I know it has compression (tested). When it runs it runs fine so I know all the fundamentals are there. My only conclusion is it is a bad sensor or a bad wire. The last time I drove it the speedometer gauge started jumping erratically as I drove. There were no other symptoms in the machine as I drove so I decided I would deal with it later and ignored it. After an hour or so of driving is suddenly just crapped out on a road. I got it to fire up a couple of times and had to give it throttle to keep it going but then it would sputter and die. Eventually I could not get it started at all so I towed it home. I let it sit overnight and tried again the next day and still no go. That is when I decided it would be cheaper to start replacing parts to eliminate as many possibilities as practical. After sitting for a week or so the machine started again but I have to give it throttle to get it started. Once it starts it runs rough and wants to stall when I give it throttle. After a few seconds of coaxing it to stay running it settles down and behaves normally. At first the speed gauge acts erratic as before, but after the engine stabilizes it drops to zero and stays there, though it still jumps every so often. I want to believe the speed gauge symptom is related but in the past the gauge was fine when the machine would act up. I've studied the EFI system in the manual and I see there are ways to test all the sensors, but in some cases it requires inserting a meter into the wiring system at the ECU. I don't have a means to do that. Also I cannot find a diagnostic port in the wiring system so there is no way to run diagnostics. I am at a point where I have to tow it to a local shop and pay them to see if they can figure it out, which without a diagnostic port and lack of familiarity with these machines I suspect is going to be futile. I could order all the rest of the sensors from China and wait another month or so to get them and replace all the sensors and see if that solves it. If that fails then I am left with replacing the wire harnesses which I am not able to do. That will be a very expensive solution if I have buy the harnesses and to pay a shop to install them. The final option is to just sell it as a mechanic special and take a huge loss.

So it looks like you got something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Empi-00-3734-0-Slip-Spark-Arrstor/dp/B00BBJTNZW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=spark+arrestor+vw&qid=1597347283&sr=8-4 I have a secondary muffler that was added by the previous owner. I'm not sure of the size of the outlet pipe. Hopefully I can make this work. Thanks for the info..very helpful.

Hey Dan, could you post a link to one so I can see what you are talking about?

I stumbled on this post about how to check the injectors: This should be a good test.

I recently bought an 08 Trooper T2. As far as I can tell there is no spark arrester on these machines. I found an old post about this but I need more info. The previous owner added a secondary muffler to my machine. I am hoping I can find an easy way to add an arrester to it. I have no idea how to go about finding one.

i'll have a look and post back if it helps. thanks.

I ran some tests. I have spark (got bit holding the plug wire to the coil). I have fuel (gas spews out of the hose at the injector rail). I know I have compression (auto shop checked that). Only thing that comes to mind is the injectors are not letting the fuel into the engine. That could mean a bad ECU. I ordered a new ECU from china. It will take a few weeks to arrive. It is cheaper throw parts at it than paying a shop to run tests (ecu plus shipping is $112). Also ordered an O2 sensor for about $20.

Alibaba is not an ecommerce service. In other words you can't just purchase an item on Alibaba. It is more of a directory for Chinese vendors. If you are a wholesaler you might find and make deals with vendors through Alibaba. Aliexpress is more like ebay or Walmart where you can purchase products from vendors who are vetted by the service. Alibaba and Aliexpress are run by the same company. Here is a link that explains it: https://mywifequitherjob.com/is-aliexpress-safe/

Problem not solved. It happened again today. Had to tow it home. Totally frustrating. Now I suspect it is a random electrical issue, maybe a bad ground, who knows.

Per the parts manual the part number for the head is 472-1003010. Do a search for that part number and you will find vendors selling it. It is for a chery engine so it is not exclusive to Joyner. The same applies for many other parts.

Thanks but I am sure it is not a ground issue. The behavior is not triggered by vibration and I can get the car to run again if I let it sit for a few minutes.

From what I have seen, Alibaba is oriented toward wholesalers who buy in bulk quantities. Most of the products I've seen have minimum order quantities that are well beyond what a consumer needs. You can't buy 1 or 2 shock absorbers for example. You have to buy 4 or more.

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Maybe put it up on jacks and listen to where the sound is coming from.

Update: I have been experiencing a problem where the engine will suddenly start lagging like it is not getting fuel. It will sputter and stall when giving throttle and cannot be driven when it is doing this. At first it seemed to happen when it was hot. I took it to a local auto repair shop and they ran several tests while it was acting up. They started looking at the ignition and thought it was bad spark wires or a coil. Then they put a pressure gauge on the fuel line on the input to the fuel injector rail and found it was inconsistent, so they recommended I replace the fuel pump, filters and pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator gauge is constant at around 7 (=70 psi?). I went ahead and installed a new fuel pump and it seemed to run well, so I figured it was fixed. However today the behavior happened again. I was not doing anything to stress the engine and it was not hot. I noticed the oil pressure warning light had come on when it happened. The oil pressure gauge is always at the very low end when it is running, ever since I got the machine. I originally assumed the sender unit was not working properly, but after running the machine a few times it seems to be giving consistent readings. Now I am wondering if the engine has problems. The oil was very black when I got it and when I changed it there was a lot of metal on the drain plug. I don't know if there is some sort of safety mechanism that puts the engine in Limp Mode when the oil pressure is low. At this point I am clueless as to how to solve this problem. It seems the auto shop doesn't know what to do either. There are too many unknowns. There are unknown issues with the wiring (previous owner says the fuse block is corroded). I don't know the history of the vehicle, i.e. how has it been maintained and what the default oil pressure should be. I don't know the intricacies of the electrical/mechanical system and I don't know the common defects. I am hoping there are others who have experienced this and have an answer. One more thing to note: the previous owner installed an auxiliary fuel tank under the front cowling. It is connected to the the main fuel tank via a hose and T fitting on top. This T fitting is the one that originally connected the bypass fuel line from pressure regulator. He disconnected the bypass line and plugged it so as to use the T for the auxiliary tank connection. This may be the cause of the problem, but I doubt it since he would have experienced problems from the time he set it up and would have addressed it then.

There are some old discussions in the Joyner forum regarding ball joints. I recall seeing some users mention alternate products that worked for them. You can also look for the part numbers in the parts catalog and do a Google search to find them. If the parts are not specifically made by Joyner they often turn up under other manufacturer brand names.

I just purchased a starter for $168. The way I found it was by doing a Google search for the part number that is in the parts manual. I also found a fuel pump this way. The starter I purchased claims to be a newer improved version of starter vs. the original. I will be installing it tomorrow.

I drilled a 3.5" hole with a hole saw. I can get my hand through. I already had to use it after overfilling the oil. It is important to get your hand in because the drain plug is at an angle so not easy to thread it using a socket. I installed the clip nuts like you did but I couldn't use them on the 2 rear holes since they wouldn't align with the holes on the plate. At least I won't have to remove it any more.

PS, I was able to get a title online over the phone. You have to set up an MVD Now account. Once set up you can send and receive your documents via the account. You call MVD and they will walk you through the process. It took almost 2 hours for someone to answer the phone so I called while sitting by the phone at work. Once I got connected the agent promised to stay with me until the process was completed.

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