AvalancheAK

Bruceg what width are you running? I’m curious if I can get 28 or 29x11 on both the rear AND front.

I haven’t minded the heat much so far. It seems to come out of the nose from the radiation more than the engine room it feels like. When I first bought it I initially thought it was decently quiet. Then I put a roof on it, and I think that was a major factor in the sound reverberating in the cab. It was pretty obnoxious for a while. What I did that definitely helped a fair bit : insulated under the rear seat and around the sides of the rear seat with reflectx bubble wrap foil insulation. Just cut and layer pieces in there. Stuffed one in from under the bed on top of the engine as best I could, and left it long so it folds up and fits between the cab and the bed. I can’t say how much that helped, but it didn’t hurt. The other thing I did was insulated the roof, ideally I wanted to glue up acoustic foam, but didn’t want to experiment with the price tag. So I ended up zip tying in a cheap $15 sleeping bag as a headliner. And pulled the soft rear window off my Prowler and stuck it on the back. The combination of these three things made a notable difference. I’d still like it to be quieter, but we no longer cringe or wear earmuffs (and I’m pretty anal with my hearing). mine is the four seater, but you could apply all these ideas to the two seater as well.

I was excited to read this, as my machine is the same way. Get's really tight to pop out of park when on a hill (ie the park pawls in the transmission are holding a load) What you describe is exactly what I do with my Prowler, as the parking brake on that machine is just junk. Leave it in L or H if its facing downhill, leave it in R if uphill. Not sure why I didn't think of trying that with the Stampede. I tried it yesterday and my machine just rolls in gear (with the engine off of course), so no luck for me.

It's a fly by wire throttle. Not your standard cable actuated throttle valve. If it's like my Skidoo 900 ACE machines there is no TPS, since the throttle body is told by the ECU on behalf of the electronic throttle what position to hold. The codes I pulled off the machine were for a bad range on part of the electronic throttle pedal. via my googling a while back, The P2138 trouble code indicates that the Engine Control Module has detected a malfunction within the D and/or E circuits of the pedal position sensor.

Greetings all. New to this forum, seems like the Textron area is pretty quiet but I’ll give it a try anyway. I bought a 2017 Stampede 4 XTR last year, new but had been sitting on the lot here in Alaska. Been pretty happy with it so far (other than oil filter access) but it’s started having an intermittent problem recently where the check engine light will flash and the throttle pedal won’t respond properly. Both times I was still able to drive, but would top out at about 1/4-1/3 throttle. The first time it did it, I tried clearing the codes and they came back. But 20 minutes later I cleared and it’s been fine. Yesterday it happened again, and I cleared them on the first try and it was fine. Electrical connections all look fine. The code is a P2138 , electronic throttle out of range. Anyone else seen this? Ive only got about 200 miles on the machine, and I haven’t been thrashing it on a side note, I’m considering a lift kit if anyone knows a good source as the long wheelbase definitely has some limitations in rough terrain? And a front locking diff. It seems like there isn’t a lot of aftermarket support for these machines, which is a shame as it’s a pretty good setup. I really like the low range, and the engine braking. Have Gone up and down some pretty long and steep mountain grades.