Gorj

A couple of buss bars make sense. What I did for all the 12 volt things is I ran a heavy cable from the battery to under the hood and connected everything there through a fuse panel.

Have not used my four wheel drive for over a year. Today when I flipped the switch to 4 wheel drive all I got was blinking four wheel drive icon but no front wheels pulling. I have not checked anything. Thought I would ask first here. Suggestions?

That is almost exactly like my set up except I did not replace the small 12 volt battery because it was new about 6 months ago. But I might consider moving it up like you did. The next time I replace it, I will go with a lithium battery. I do not think you would see any advantage with buss bars between the batteries because the original cables are a very heavy gauge. I had installed a voltage gauge several years ago and it works great for monitoring the batteries.

You are partially correct about the amps. But wattage is amps time volts. Thus the batteries are putting out 51.2 volts combined and that equals 5120 Wh.

According to the printed specs it has 110 amp continuous output. And 2560 Wh. combined. I bought these as a set so BMS in each battery talks to each other. In the manual it warns against using other brands of batteries with these. I am using a smart 48 volt charger. As with anything, time will tell if this was a good move.

After much thought and reading I have finally removed the very heavy Discover lead acid batteries and replaced them with much lighter Humsienk Lithium batteries. The process took most of the day with a lunch break and a few other breaks. I rigged up a winch in rear and ran the cable over a pulley mounted over the batteries. Made the removal of the 65 pound batteries much easier for this 80 year old! Installed the four lithium batteries inboard to be able to use the existing cables. Used heavy duty rubber bungee as tie downs. Connected all the cables and fired it up and took it out for a test drive. Wow, what a difference. More power than when new. Climbed the hills on my place with ease. Should have done this sooner. The dash voltage gauge I installed shows 56.1 volts after riding it all over my 20 acres and up hills. You may ask why the four 12 volt and not just one 48 volt battery. For two reasons the 48 volt battery is really heavy and difficult for me to maneuver into place, and secondly, if one of the 12 volt batteries goes out, I only have one battery to replace. But if the 48 volt battery goes bad I will have a much larger expense to replace it. One thing I noticed, the E1 is about 1.5" to 2" taller! Humsienk has a five year warranty and the batteries generally last ten years. I will post an update down the road.

Was just interested because that was same thing I did but for a different reason. I did not want to lift that heavy 51 volt battery into the buggy. I was bad enough getting the eight Discovery batteries out!

So you have four Allion GC2 lithium batteries? Each one of those should have its own BMS. So I would guess that the charger is faulty or the battery's BMS is not communicating correctly. Is there a reason you decided on multiple batteries and not one 48 volt battery?

I have never seen it refer to anything other than the motor controller. Here is a wiring diagram.

The toggle switch activated the the motor controller. So the issue is either in the switch or the controller. There can also be issues with the batteries.

The E1 has no gear change. You just change the range by the switch on the dash. The switch changes the amount of power going to the electric motor.

The Lithium batteries have a bult in BMS and I read that one can re program the charger for Lithium batteries.

I did check that fuse. I think what ever knocked out the Delta Q also took out the DC to DC device. I was curious what may have happened to the Delta Q, so I opened it up - it is really sealed well - and found a major short on its printed circuit board. Fortunately the motor controller had no issues!

A few years ago my Delta Q charger stopped working. I replaced it with a generic golf cart charger which is still working. But when I did that the 12 volt battery stopped charging and I had to add a separate 12 volt charger. It could have been that the DC to DC converter went out too, but I had a 12 charger and it was an easy install. Its AC side is connected to the AC of the 48 volt charger so that both are charging when plugged in. To get the power cord out of the glovebox I installed a covered male 110 volt socket on the side below the windshield for easy plug-in charging like on my EV.

Those who have converted to lithium batteries and not using the Delta IQ charger, how are you charging your 12 volt battery?

I replaced the defective battery and everything is back to normal. Installed digital volt meter shows 51.9 volts when fully charged. Am again able to climb the steep hills on my property. I did not replace the expensive Discovery battery. I used a deep cycle marine 6 volt battery.

I was able to do a load test on the Discover batteries and seven of the eight batteries passed. It was the defective battery that was the problem. I am replacing it soon and expect things will be back to normal.

I am going to replace the batteries in my E1. I am not interested in the high cost Lithium or the expensive 6 volt dry batteries. I am considering four 12 volt deep charge marine batteries. I have a source for 810 amp units for about $100 each. I have no worries about reprograming the charger because it went out a few years ago and I replaced it with generic golf cart charger. When I decide to do this, I'll keep you posted on the results.

I am into five years of ownership of my electric side by side and I am noticing some deterioration of power. Although I measured the voltage at over 49 volts, I believe the batteries are beginning to fail. I charge them about twice a week. Last year the charger went out and I replaced it with a 48 volt golf cart charger. What has been your experience with the batteries?

I have not installed it yet. But it would need to be installed where it can be accessed by hand with two brake lines run to a brake line going to the UTV's brake line. It would be like cutting the brake line and installing the valve. How it works is you put pressure on the brake fluid with the brake pedal, activate the valve and it holds the pressure, thus holding the brakes, until you depress the brake pedal again that releases the valve and thus releases the brakes when you let up on the pedal.

I AGREE. The E1 is, for me, a very useful tool. I do not like small gas engines, so the electric engine is great. Around my 20 ac. I do not need anything more.

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No, I don't have any problem with the brake light switch.

The parking brake is a piece of CRAP! I recently purchased a brake line switch/valve that will lock up the brakes when activated. Race cars use them. I am going to install it in the Spring when it is warmer. Right now I do not park it on any inclines without putting a block under a wheel!

Yep. Replaced the battery charger with a 48 volt charger from a golf cart. Found one on eBay. Works like a charm. Did not mount it where the old charger was mounted because it was difficult to get to so I mounted it in the area under the hood. I also cut a hole in the frounk for better air flow.