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Posts posted by 2scoops
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Glad to hear you got it fixed. Good post.
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I am pretty certain an 8" shock with limit straps will work great in the front. Also I would go 250lb spring in front--i did the math on the front for a single rate at one time. Not sure on the rear for a single rate. My guess would be 500-550. Banjo Minnow had a lot on here about his experience with single rate springs.
I run dual rate both front and rear. And with mods have 12+ inches of travel in the front and 14-15" in the rear. Mine is a crawling machine, but is not set up for big jumps-- way too soft. I really would not recommend air shocks, but if you do plan to install air socks install a sway bar or too.
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I don't remember, but it is on here. Have you searched for the answer? There is also a plethora about shocks. I am sure all of your questions can be answered if you do some searching.
Are you thinking single or dual rate shocks?
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Lol, I still have the noisy stock exhaust remember. People hear me coming!
I would be very interested in an electronic throttle or brake control somehow mounted to the steering wheel for rock crawling. That possible?
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It will have V bracing front & rear and one tube running down the centerline of the roof.
Then I will eventually add an aluminum roof.
The measuring & bending is easy. Its the notching that is time consuming and monotonous. If you look at a lot of aftermarket cages the usually have less complex notching surfaces. The do this on purpose so they can hit it with a tube notchet and don't have to spend much time grinding & grinding again.
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I honestly think our intakes are a pretty good design they just need to be port matched. The long runners allow for torque which I think is what most of us are after. One day I will get around to flipping my intake & getting rid of the lame rubber tubing.
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I will get measurements on the size I am using. It is some tube I had laying around for awhile and I don't want to give you a guess. The OD is 1 3/4 and sleeves perfectly over the stock tube. It is somewhere between .95 & .110 wall. I can tell you 1 3/4 .120 won't slide over without grinding. I am going to weld it at the tube connectors then rosett weld it a few times down the length of the tube.
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Likely internal. If Lenny doesn't chime in your best bet is calling a transmission place and asking them. I haven't had any issues with my tranny yet... knock on wood.
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I don't think its 1.50, but very close. I believe it is a metric size to be exact, but very close to 1.50". I think the wall diameter is close to .065...pretty thin.
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I my 2008 Trooper dialed in so well I trust it more my 2012 Wildcat--no joke
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Yes it does. Those are very minor. Good to hear it is holding up. The guys on the Wildcat forum have all kinds of crazy problems big and small. I just bent a tie rod on my Wildcat that would have never happened on the Trooper. They used flimsy aluminum tie rods to save weight. The Trooper isn't light but it is stout.
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Settings for Joyner Trooper:
http://www.electronicjetkit.com/UTV/viewproduct.asp?partnumber=9340001
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Pull the handle. I do it all the time. Matter of fact I that is my copilot's job if I have one. Its nice to use it just to slow me in technical downhills.
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I think that's a great price for a 2011. I believe many of the bugs were worked out on the 2011's and up.
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Fuel economy goes way down, and will be basically in line with a RZR, but it is worth it.
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A fuel controller will bring it up pretty close to the advertised 85 HP, but the trooper is heavy. I don't know about the Renali. I beat my buddies rzr4 no problem on a flat road with stock tire and pre-fuel controller, if it were up a hill I am sure it would have been different.
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Go uhmw. If I ever get around to it I am going to take mine to a local plastics company & have them form fit some Uhmw to the rocker panels in their oven, but I haven't really needed to yet. Yes the are scratched and have a few cracks, but nothing I can't deal with so far.
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Welcome. Keep us updated on how the new models hold up. Early ones had some issues.
Waterproof the electric 4x4 box on the front diff. Just take it apart and run a bead if silicone between the halves then reassemble.
The stock tires are junk and prone to getting holes easily.
Buy the fuel controller. It bumps it up to a true 85hp. Don't pay over $300 for it or you are getting ripped IMO.
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Do any lurkers have post 2011 models? I would like to hear how they are holding up?
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I almost forgot about the cams. So are you saying that Schneider should still have the specs? I was just thinking of trying to find a reputable machine shop here in Utah I could drop my head off at & get in ported, polished, & cams ground for torque.
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How is that turbo working? Did you get it tuned? I am thinking of doing one, but I don't want to lose the low end torque if I remove the fuel controller. I need as much low end as possible for rock crawling between 500-1500 rpms.
Fuel Controller
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
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No issues with mine.
Reset the Ecu? I don't believe this is an option with Joyner's. Can you do it on yours?