2scoops

Finally got my skid plates back and going to go test em out on an elk hunt tgis weekend they only cost me $150. Also found one problem area for anyone who has a 2012 joyner to look at. Problem is that the bolts are not locktited in place and vibrate loose on the brake callipers. Allredy rattled two of my callipers untill they fell free but nothing a little BLUE LOCKTITE not red cant fix. Also if you have had this problem pay attention to the other brakes as there is a thin washer between the mounting surfaces of the calliper and the hub housing surface. Also has anyone put any interco black momba tires on their trooper? If so how ya like em?

I went to a brembo dual caliper used on motorcycles on my front calipers. Improved the braking, but still not where I want it. I had to fab some mount brakets out of plate steel for these to work. How is the braking on the 2011/2012's? Same I would imagine...they stop you but don't really provide much feel or grab?

I run 30" dominator 540's from superatv. They have been bullet proof. I don't even worry about carrying a spare. I hit a rock in Moab and felt the tire pinch hard against the rim, the kind where you cringe and wait to hear the hiss. Upon inspection I had a small cut in the sidewall, but nothing into the threads. My friends with Maxxis Bighorns have had 4-5 holes each in their sidewalls since I have owned these. They are soft though, so if you run on the road alot I would not recommend them. When we run on the slick rock in Moab I hear other tires churp on steep inclines/declines where mine just bit & stick.

Yes, if you axle is bumping against your swingarm and the shock just fits then you can't go any further back on the top mount. In this case you will actually want to go further back on the lower mount. Even if you move the mount back an inch, you will see a significant change.

New question. I was sitting on 425 over 500 on the rear. I was only getting about 9- 9.5 inches of clearance with alot of preload. I just switched to 500 over 500 and still only have 10.5 inches with alot of preload. I did notice that the main spring is compressing about an inch when let off the jack. Should I go up to a 600 lb main spring? Just seems like a lot of spring for these machines, but I cant seem to get much ride height in the rear.

You are about an 1 inch to 1.5 inches too low--right? How much preload are you currently running? One other thing I am wondering is since these machines are pretty much hand built, maybe your suspension geometry is different than mine/others. If your lower or upper shock mounts are closer to the pivot point of the swing arm it will create more leverage on your shock compressing it more. You haven't moved your shock mounts have you? You could save some money and move your upper shock mount back. You will probably need to fabricate some brackets as I did. It was one of the easier adjustments I made. You will also gain some suspension travel in the process. Just make sure you don't go too low like I did. I popped my CV shaft out in Moab 2 times because it drooped too far.

Its not really necessary unless you go to a really soft suspension set up like a dual rate spring or air shocks. With the stock shocks I would slide around corners with little body roll on open dirt roads, but when I went fast in rough terrain it was literally like trying to stay on a mechanical bull. Even going slow in places like Moab was very unpleasant for any rocks/bumps over 4 inches.

Finished the swaybar a couple of weeks ago and tested it. It worked well, but I do need to up the torsion bar diameter. I could feel the swaybar doing its job, but it was too much into the lean of the car before it started to react and level the rear end. As far as the trail ride and suspension travel I felt no change. I did engineer quick disconnects into the unit, but I doubt I will use them often. I really wanted to be able do disconnect them just in case there was a failure somewhere in my design--but swaybars break fairly often in offroad cars. Here is a picture:

we are working on building a header for the turbo, as for right now yes we use a custom built manifold.. as for the cat yes it is deletedas well as 1 O2 sensor. And where we ride we are not required to run a spark arrestor and i would avoid one if posable, any back pressure is bad for a turbo....

Goindeep, its great to see someone improving & pushing the limits of the Trooper. How do you plan to control the fuel with your kit?

I assume you want a lift because you are hanging up on stuff. The easiest way is larger tires, but I'll bet you already have larger tires. The next think I would recommend is fabricating a smooth/flat skidplate covering the entire bottom. The exposed tubes and screws hanging out of the bottom hang up on everything.

If you really need a suspension lift you will have to do what Kinarfi said. I believe there is about an inch or more of lift to be had if you just fabricate lower mounting brackets. If you want more than that you will probably have to lower your front differential. You can probably get 2 inches in the rear with the diff in the stock location since the CV's don't have to turn.

You will first need to get the measurements Kinarfi mentioned. You can push your CV's as far as you feel comfortable and they don't bind. The rear should be straight forward. As a matter of fact if you find you have a couple more inches you can raise the rear, I would just get a longer shock.

Thanks for the reply 12TrooperT2. We usually don't hear from Trooper owners until there is a problem. Good to hear you are happy with yours. Where did you buy you T2?

The stock skidplates are terrible. The screws protruding out of the bottom are even worse. I recomment a skidplate made out of UHMW.

Hey guys any one out there who has changed your suspension in the t2 whats your ride hieght now and were did you measure from front and back

Thanx charlie

With 30" tires I have 14 3/4" in front and 14" in the rear.

Well, I know many 2008 & 2009 Trooper owners unknowingly became the R&D department for Joyner. I am curious to find out how the 2011 & 2012 Troopers are holding up? Have they resolved all of the common problems? What, if any, issues have you had?

My curiosity stems from wondering to recommed to my friend buying a used Trooper (cheaper but may have problems) or a new and "improved" model.

Sounds like the Poison Spider will have more to sink his fangs into next time--lol. Glad to hear you are making it work for you. I recently went into a Polaris dealership (it was right next to a metal fab business where I was getting some square tubing) and sat in the RZR XP 900. The left foot legroom was a joke for my 6' 4" frame. Ironically as small as it was inside it felt wider than the Trooper. I realized it was probably the oversized plastics. Definately not the best trail machine. The 800 is much better for the trails. Also, aside from the plastics and the drivetrain, the fit and finish felt no better than a Trooper--plastic everywhere you look.

Well, while I was fabbing my swaybar I found a bad rear wheel bearing. I contacted Silverbullet and left a message. I don't have the patience to wait for a call back. Is there another source for the "upgraded" tapered roller bearings? I called No Limits and they said they only had stock bearings.

Glad to hear you got it up and running so quickly. Thanks for the tranny PDF.

So, I got into building my swaybar this weekend. I am using a schroeder torsion bar, aluminum arms, polyurethane mounts, and TJ swaybar links with quick disconnects. I am running the torsion bar in the small gap in front of the motor and just above the tranny. I fabbed 1 3/4" blocks for it to mount on. They will be welded on the tubes that extrapolate the transmission. My original plan was to mount it on or near the rear radiator mounts, but after mocking it up it didn't have the proper clearances. I will take pictures when I get it completed.

Decided to add to existing thread rather than start new one,

I got my new FOA shocks on and started out to give them and try and my wife says, "let's go eat first" , so we did, started raining as we ate and by the time we got back home, we were wet! the only real test so far was a speed bump, but I was impressed, by it, more soon, as it's supposed to rain tomorrow and help put out our 8 wild fires burning here in Utah. I will post an update after I have driven on them.

Ordered online on 06-18-2012($563.25)(I over paid by $40.00 because I ordered 2.5s instead of 2.0), received shocks 07-12-2012, received springs 07-13-2012 and finished mounting and cleaning up around 5:00 and went to eat. I had one issue with the way they mount and sent the following message to FOA,

I just bought a set of FOA shocks for the front of my Trooper because I think I get a good shock for a good price and I can tear them down and do my own revalving and maintenance.

Here's the problem, the bolts holding our shock on are 15mm and so is the hole in the shock mount. If I put a 1/2" bolt in the 15mm hole, the bolt moves up and down and wears the

hole out until the mount breaks, I crash and I die, maybe. When I bought my first set of FOA for the rear, they came with a spacer to make up the difference between the 15mm bolt

and the 1/2" bolt, not so on this order, so I found the extra spacers from my first order, cut them to size and finished the installation. If I hadn't saved the spacers from my first order,

I don't think I could have finished the job, extra washers would not have done the job. FOA, you need to have these spacers for buggies that have the 15mm bolts for mounting shocks.

The other thing about how these mount, and I think I like it, is that they don't squash the shock mounts in on the sides of the shock.

I got a call from them the next day and the method they said to use was get some 1/2" washers and weld them on the out of the mounting brackets, I think I would use some more substantial than washers. I think you will have the same problem with any of the other brands of shocks also. Also, since Joyners make up such a small percentage of their business, stocking the shims doesn't really make sense.

Here's is the first of several photos of how I mounted my shocks,

and the last of several which shows how I ended up mounting the reservoirs.

(FYI) The Blue box is where I carry my tools and spare parts.

PS. My rear shocks are still doing just fine and I expect my fronts to work just as well, I'm ordering a couple of sets of their shims so I can dial the rebound and compression dampening in after I see how the current valving works.

I drilled my stock holes out to 5/8" and bought some spacers with 5/8" outer and 1/2" inner. Cut them to fit--vvwwaalllaa!. You need spacers to center the shock between the mounts anyways, so it does both for you--allows you to use a 1/2" bolt and centers the shock.

The worlds largest 4x4 event (Jeep Safari) is held in Moab. It is because it is simply the most amazing terrain in the world you can put

rubber to. Need I mention the scenery?

So if I shut it off & restarted it right away it probably would have worked again.

Good to know.

Jeff, so has yours quit on you much? It wa my first experience & it was the hardest I have ever bottomed out.

I am just posting this as an FYI for those who may have purchased SuperATV's powersteering unit. From what I understand it has a thermal shutdown switch. If it over heats it will shut off until it cools down. Well, I had this happen to me last weekend. It happened right after I bottomed out really hard. I bottomed out so hard I figured I had broken the unit especially when it didn't come on after driving for several miles.

So, I parked it and looked for a severed wire or a disconnected wire--nothing. I ate lunch and it was back working again. I figured it would shut off after hitting alot of bumps in a short amount of time, but mine shut off from a single hard impact.

Let me tell you, after driving with powersteering and going back to manual...I can't even believe I drove this thing with out runnning into a tree before. It was back to holding on to the steering wheel with two hands and quickly shifting, so I could put my hands back on the steering wheel. If you ride in rocky terrain it will be the single best upgrade you make. I would rate it even before suspension.

I'd refer to banjo minnow for bolt in shocks. Have you read his posts?

For slow riding the should be fine & you can make them much softer than stock. They require

more upkeep than coilovers though. Also, be sure you factor in the price of a nitrogen servicing

set up-you will need it. A coilover is just more reliable. You can blow seals & keep riding--not the

case with an airshock. Last, I wouldn't run them if you carry heavy loads. The air doesn't provide

a consistent spring load & can settle unevenly. Try them in the front & see what you think.

If I used the high end stuff I would break the bank. I believe quantity is more important than quality on these machines. So far, everytime I have changed my diff and engine oils there has been sludge. No isssues on the tranny oil. Royal purple is great stuff though.

Prybars always worked for me. One one each side and pry in opposite directions. Make sure the axle is parallel with the ground. It makes it easier. But the first time can be tough if there is corrosion inside. Just when I think it isn't going to go....it pops out.

Joynerperformance

As dealers we recived buggy as they came.Sorry that the box was not vary well though out.But all i can say is that the kit takes about 2 1/2 hours to fab + parts so thats way we charge this price.We sell kits to many customers and had no complant.This is a hobby for me and like to make things for Joyners.

Thanks

Rick

Ahhh, so this is Rick. I thought it was Joyner USA. Did you post that somewhere or were we just supposed to know??? I was trying to beat them up for a lower price. I also thought it was weird that it looked like the exact same unit as the one you were selling when you were with Silverbullet. I think it is a high price. That is is just my opinion. I am glad you are making aftermarket stuff for Joyners. I wish there were more of you. I just think the price point is high by about $20-$30.

Way overpriced. Especially because we are only needing it because joyner put out POS system in the first place. Thanks joyner. I can

get a beautifully manufactured OX Shifter & cable for less.

Doesn't a muffler make it quieter? No thanks. I love the irony of my camoflage trooper being loud. Also, many of the trails I run are

narrow so I like that people hear me coming. Kind of like a Harley, you often hear them before you see them.