2scoops

I heard he was just about to be promoted to "Super Duper Moderator", but he just shot himself in the foot. Thats just too bad.

Silverbullet.

All you guys who are porting your heads.Thear is a good book on how to port heads.Just email me at [email protected] Matching ports is a good thing but thear are things you should due.And things you should not due.The info is free.

How about a price quote for members on a port & cams package? If we were to send you our head & manifolds.

I wonder how many Troopers have been sold in the U.S. and if anyone on this forum would know? Next time I talk to Joyner USA I will ask, but I wonder with all the changeover there if they know???

I know the members on this site equal just a fraction of the owners.

I would like to get these numbers because there are a few performance shops I would like to pitch the 1100cc motor to. BUT, if they can't make any money then they just wouldn't waste their time. If we can create the demand the supply will follow. Now I don't want to bag on any of the aftermarket support out there we currently have, but none of them have really dug into the potential of the motor (like Lenny has).

I can only imagine how many buggys are running the 1100cc powerplant worldwide.

Does anyone know any numbers?

Grrrr, the proximity is in the realm of possibility for me, but I have to work that weekend...one day. I will be in Moab on memorial weekend if anyone will be there let me know.

I checked with the warehouse where I bought the tires (Chaparrel in Ca.) they want me to send the tires back of course at my expense then it will take a month for them to get back to me. I know that they will be pro rated for any refund or exchange and they are almost 1 year old so I think that I won't bother because it will end up costing me more than if I just buy new tires. You can bet it won't be from Chaparrel again.

Have you checked with Maxxis directly? When I got my BFG's pro-rated for cracks in the sidewalls I just took them to Discount Tire. They called BFG and I was able to use the pro-rated money on new tires at their store. It shouldn't matter where you bought them; however, I am not sure if Maxxis' warranty is a good as BFG's. BFG just wanted a tire "expert" to verify the damage so the warranty system isn't abused.

Check with these guys if you are interested in a fuel controller:

Dobeck Performance

Have you checked with Silverbullet Motorsports to see if they have any performance upgrades for the 800cc motor?

Here we are fixing to go thru tech for round 2 of the UTVRR series, all went fairly well until lap 3, it had began raining about 20 min before and when in the technical section of the mountain cliffs i caught a 4" small tree stump with left tie rod and spun me counterclockwise down the hill flipped up onto my passenger door backwards on the trail. Another racer coming down couldn't stop and hit me head on and actually rightsided me up and into a dig out in the side of the mountain!!!!!!!!!

From that point on i limped it back with a bent tie rod and parked for the evening, the rain was terrible and the attrition rate was pretty bad. but all- in-all everyone came home in good health but alot of carnage!

Gota find some tork for my 800cc motor these hills and mountains kills this little motor, need some cams for the 800, i know silver bullet makes'um for the 1100cc. Anyone know how much timing these motors can take if you could adjust the timing?

Well that's it for the moment, may have a few more pics to put up later this week!

Thanks, Mike

Wow! Sounds like fun.

Having a manual transmission puts us at a disadvantage when trying to maintain speed up hills. Although I don't plan on changing I would love to test drive a Trooper with a CVT just to see the difference.

Troopers are really heavy, I am not sure about the buggy's. Is there any weight you can eliminate?

Correct me if I am wrong, but I do believe your car has the same rear end as the Troopers & Renegades??? If it does, I would assume your buggy has the Renegade gearing which is lower that the Troopers gearing (better low end torque), but I am not certain. If you do have the same rear end as the Troopers/Renegades it would be a good idea to go through it if you haven't already. Especially with as hard as you drive. There is an upgrade kit for these rear-ends. While going through it you could verify what gearing you have.

I assume you need to stay naturally aspirated in your class??? Have you considered an aftermarket fuel controller? Lots of options there, but you would have to research.

Last, there may be a CVT out there for your Joyner if interested. Check with Klung motors on this forum. He recently informed me they have just come out with a CVT for the Trooper. I would miss jamming gears though...

Well just got the shocks revolved to 40 60 I am headed to Moab in the morning, so I guess I will get a good test ride.

Good luck & have fun! Take some good video.

When I talked to the guys at Fox, they told me that you can only preload to coil bind. This is where the air space between coils is less than the amount of stroke left. I think I am close to this point now, I am pretty sure I should use a little heavier spring. I run from anywhere from 8 -15 psi depending on what I am doing. From what I can tell I should probably change the valving to a 40/60 in the rear, but what about up front?

Yes, coil bind is a concern, but I believe you should be able to preload more. I know you are a smart dude so if you haven't measured yet (I ask this because you said "I think"), measure the space between the coils and compare it to you shaft length remaining. I though I was close too, but when I reviewed some slow motion video I could see I had a lot of space between the coils even when I bottomed out.

How much droop do you currently have front & rear? Jack it up so the tires are just barely touching & take measurements from the bottom of the skidplates to the ground. Also, take a measurment of the amount of shock shaft showing if you don't already know this number. Then downjack it, start it up and move it back and forth until you are comfortable it has settled in, then remeasure. Your travel in the back has increased with the new shocks, so I would recommend at least 1" of droop on the shock itself which will probably equal about 3-4 inches of droop in the rear. Allowing at least 1" of compression in the shock helps it to operate in its optimally designed range.

Once I hear back from you on the front droop I will address that. Remember, I am running dual rate in front, so I will help you out the best I can. Also, I have not played with my valving yet, so I have no idea what I am set at because I bought these shocks used. They came off of a 800lb mini-rail, so they are definately on the soft side for a 1800lb trooper. But I have no complaints on rocky trails & Moab which is what I do most. If I did alot of duning and big whoops I would need to firm up my compression & rebound.

I believe you are still running 27" tires. Is that correct? Are they the stock tires? I am running about 5-7 psi in my 30" tires. What tire & psi will make a big difference in your suspension too. Unless you have the exact same tires as me we are, to some degree, comparing apples to oranges.

Wish I could make it. I imagine looking into the engine bay if Lenny's trooper is something like looking into the engine bay of the car from the movie THE WRAITH.

http://www.thewraithmovie.com/p/wraith-car.html

The legend continues...

Add more preload in the rear. For every 1/2" of preload you will gain about an inch of ground clearance. You should be fine going up to 2.5-3" of preload. I believe your valving is too firm. Remember though, the softer you go, the more sway/slinky you will get in turns. What psi are you running in your tires?

Always interested in more power. There is a kit on Ebay for $1700(without intercooler). I think it is being sold be Tobefast or Nolimits.

How does your kit compare? What rpm does the turbo spool up? Can t run on pump gas? How is the fuel controlled

(fmu or computer)?

Thanks

Would do any of the mentioned,, can't find any on ebay,, would love to get yours Roc, then pay Lenny to do upgrade, would be set,, but? Don't know how to make happen,,,

Still on Ebay. Item 150693498940

I saw one on Ebay. $989

2scoops has these tires. http://www.superatv....l-P963C709.aspx

They also offer a 28.5

My only warning is that these tires are much heavier than stock, but any 6 ply 30" ATV tire will be. I believe the 30x10x14 were 10lbs heavier a piece per tire than the stock, and the 30x12x14 were 15lbs heavier. That is a siginificant difference mainly due to the stock tires being made of paper mache and recycled road tar. By the time I changed them out the stock tires had more tire plugs and slime in them than air. I added Silverbullets fuel controller and it offset any powerloss and them some.

The benefits:

I can run them at low ATV pressures 5-10psi. This will impove your offroad ride alot. I think the stock tires call for around 30 psi???

I haven't had a flat yet (desert & mountain trail riding)

Traction is awesome in all areas.

The 30" size allows me to roll over much bigger rocks & bumps with ease. This helps me maintain my momentum which is a huge benefit with at stick shift.

The ground clearance with 30" tires is much better.

The price was good.

Most importantly--they look badass

The cons:

They don't balance worth a damn. I had a little steering wheel shimmy before I added the powersteering kit (now there is none).

They wear quickly, but that is inherent of an ATV tire. I think these may wear slightly quicker because the rubber is pretty soft. BUT this is why they stick to the rocks so well.

Off the line acceleration is a slightly slower, but top speed is higher.

Well I felt pretty good about the first guy that did the dyno tuning on my trooper. After all, he knew more then I did and he did get more horse power and torque. Little did I know until today that there were others that knew much more then he did. Now I feel double dumb. Anyway here is what I ended up with. We limited the RPMs to 5700. The horsepower was still climbing at this point without showing any sign yet of beginnig to decrease it's rate of climb. However, that is where the chart ended. Really don't know where it would actually peak but I don't really care anymore. At 5700 RPMs the horse power was an outstanding 121.2hp at the rear axels. This was done on a DynaPack dyno which hooks directly to the rear axels after removing the wheels. Wow, didn't expect that. Guess when I was told this guy (Shawn Church of Church Automotive in California) was one of the top tuners in the country, I wasn't being lied to. He did it in half the time too. The torque is now also an astonishing 120.3 lb/ft. The other dyno guy (Desert Preformance in Boulder, NV) only got about 72 hp and 68 lb/ft of torque. This is about where it was at when Rocmoc drove it. Just got home and It's getting late so will wait till tomorrow to unload and drive it. Gosh, I putting the stock engine hp out at about 3000 rpms and I'm above 110 lb/ft of torque all the way from 3000 rpms on up 5700. I'll report tomorrow after my first ride. Might not be able to sleep tonight. Wife said that I'm acting like 14 year old that saw a naked woman for the first time. She may be right.

Lenny

I am damn jealous. Glad to see all your hard work paid off.

If I recall right your previous posts said you were running at 5-6psi. So you essentially doubled it? I don't think Silverbullets design will supply enough fuel for that much pressure. We would need an aftermarket fuel pump and injectors

The price including clutch and gearbox ,DHL shipping cost is 1800USD.

This CVT transmission is for 800cc and 1100cc chery engine

That is all the info Klungmotors gave to me...more to come.

I received this PM from Klungmotors yesterday:

"Hi,My friend, We checked with the supplier of new CVT transmission for 1100cc chery motor.

they say now they are available.

let us know if you guys are still interested"

I asked him to get these answers for me:

Will it bolt into the Trooper"

Will the 4x4 still work with it?

How much is the transmission?

How much to ship to the U.S.?

I will keep everyone posted on what I hear.

Pm sent

I built one from scratch. Idon't think that boring the stock one out is possible to 52mm. I would look for a after market one. You probably don't need 52mm,maybe 45mm or so would be fine in an unboosted situation. Another problem I ran across with the 52mm is that throttling smooth off idle was touchy as it got a lot of air quickly. I ended up making the throttle wire cam, on the throttle, body to an ellipse. It starts out about 4" away from the shaft then rolls smoothly to the stock distance out. Helped a lot. I would flip the intake. If you have a Trooper the bolts lineup failry good with only a couple needing attention. I welded an extra tab to the side to catch one hole. I ljust got some gasket material from the auto parts store and made my own. Basically clamp it to the surface and carefully tap it around the edges with a ball peen hammer to cut it to the shape, same with the holes. Use a sensor safe gasket sealer. Your probably right on the long runners as the longer they are, the more resistance to flow they have. At low rpms, the air isn't flowing enough to provide a ram effect which it does at higher rpms and this engine was set up to scream at high rpms. Then again, I'm not an engine guy but I am pretty good at physics and do what makes sence. Sounds like you know a lot more about engines then I. You might want to confer with someone who has played with intake runners. there some good sites on Google that talk about it. I'm not as smart as some think I am but I have Google. Flipping the intask makes everything easier to get at and reduces the intake overall length.

Lenny

Lenny

Lenny,

When you flip the intake, how high does it stick up above the rear chassis tubing? I am running a rear seat and I have a sheet of lexan that sits flush on the top of the rear tubing (I removed the rear dump bed all together). I am concerned It will be in the way of the intake if I flip it.

Also, it is necessary to weld an extra tab for the intake? Silverbullet is selling the supercharger kit which will require the intake to be flipped and I have not heard any mention of welding another tab on the intake.

silverbullet

We have come to pricing this unit.For the first 5 systems 2,500.They will come with 27x7x3.5 inter cooler and every thing to install. We have a controler that will work fine with supercharger.With Lennys help we will have a vary reliable system.With lots of toque on the low end.This price is better than a turbocharger system.This Price will only be on the first 5 units.The price will be 3,000.When sold out of the first 5.Call me 928 344 2117

Can we get some pictures of the set up?

Interested in the rear end for the right price. What did you want for it?

Sorry not for me at that price. I will try adapting a Honda, Toyota or some kind of engine to the trans that has more raw power first. OR drive it tells it dies!!!

rocmoc n AZ

Well, I guess that is the million dollar question...what drive train? I would be up for an engine & drivetrain swap if there was something that made sense. I don't want to go any heavier and I definately don't want to lose 4x4. The only thing I can think of that would be lighter, more powerfull, and offer 4x4 would be the drivetrain out of a RZR XP 900 or the turbo'd weber MPE 750. Both of which will cost 2-3 times as much as just supercharging/turboing ours. IMHO, pound for pound the Chery 1100 is a good little engine and the transmission/transfercase is as light of a design you are going to find in an automotive type set up.

Sounds to me like dedub has found him a supercharger for a 3.8 V6 he is using. Please keep us posted dedub!

Time to break the silence, because I don't know when the guys at Silverbullet will get the time to post on this website and I was tired of waiting.

So, like they said they have made all of the brackets. The delay is due to trying to get a fuel controller, one just like they sell and many of us have purchased, to work with the supercharger. It didn't sound like the current one they are selling will work with the supercharger because it doesn't have a boost port. They are also trying to make it work with the stock injectors and fuel pump at 5 psi. If you want more pressure you will likely need to go to bigger injectors & an aftermarket fuel pump. Also, it sounds as though they are going to offer a couple of different price packages--eventually. A cheaper version may come with an FMU instead of the piggyback fuel controller. They mentioned possibly one with a intercooler & one without, but as Lenny would attest roots superchargers run hot so an intercooler is highly recommended.

Best news I heard was Rick knows how cheap we Trooper folks are so I believe they will price it as low as possible. People on this forum will get first crack at owning one at a discounted rate to get them on the market. Now, don't quote me cause I hope they sell for $1, but from all I could tell I expect the price to be $3k-4k. If it ends up being a well running, well performing, and reliable set up that can run on pump gas, I think the $3k ballpark would be a steal.

So, is anybody saving up for this?

The cantilever setup is fine. Had the same setup in my race car with a screw knob in the cockpit which allowed me to adjust the proportioning thu-out a race or before a race. Worked really well ! Where they screwed up is with the crisscrossing of the brake lines. This setup works only when one master cylinder controls the front brakes and the other controls the rear, IMHO. This is an easy fix if there is enough length to switch the lines to the proper master cylinder. Will complete by next week. To make things worse it in the first 50 Troopers, of which my is one, they installed 8" rotors. Later they gave me the upgrade to the larger rotors that everyone else got later. BUT they said I had to pay for linstall or do it myself. Well I upgraded the rear rotors when I installed the new bearings and have never got around to upgrading the fronts. SO I have a LOT of rear bias. BUT the really great thing is when they gave me the upgrade, they include two NEW master cylinders so I have spares.

rocmoc n AZ

Roc,

Have you switched your brake lines yet? Any results?