Kinarfi

A WORD TO THE WISE, WHEN WELDING ON ANYTHING THAT HAS A COMPUTER DISCONECT THE BATTERY OR TURN THE MASTER SWITCH OFF.

That sounds really wise and like something easily overlooked, Thanks

Jeff

Be careful welding on a gas tank. Have done it but didn't like it. Even if it is empty, it can explode.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I always fill it with water, but not wet the area being soldered/welded and then ignite any vapors prior to starting. At worst, you may get a small woosh as you burn off what ever vapor is left, and since it is controlled and expected, it is relatively safe. If memory serves me, 1 gal gas, properly mixed with air, is equal to 8 sticks of dynamite.

Thanks,

Jeff

Will do on the rubber mounts, but I think I'll run the stock mounts and monitor them until the break and then have the sturdy L bracket like your's welded on.

Thanks

Jeff

Mail it to me and if I can, I'll fix, shipping charges only. I enjoy messing with things like this and if I get my capacitive fuel gauge working, I'll build some extra ones. PM me for my address if you want to do this.

Jeff

Pulled the old tank & took the fuel gauge apart to see what makes it tick. It turns out that it has 5 reading, empty for the last 2 inches, 1/4 for about 1 1/2 inches, 1/2 for about 1 1/2 inches, 3/4 for about 1 1/2 inches and full for about 2 inches. Some other detail are: when full the resistance is 3 ohms and .3 volts when empty it has 110 ohms and 4.6 volts. It is grounded internally, poorly in my opinion, mine had started leaking if I stacked the tank, so I epoxied it to seal it up.

As the gas level rises, a magnet floats up closing the reed switches, there is a stop for the float about 3/4 inch from full.

Just got my new fuel tank in, wow, what a long filler neck , I guess things do improve with age, no wait, it's the newer the better, oh I just don't know, guess it really doesn't matter. Take a look at the photos, , just for fun, I'm going to design & build a capacitive fuel gauge sender for it and make mod similar to flatbed's so the engine doesn't die when going down hill with low fuel. I'll take more photos

Now that I don't ski anymore, no reason for winter. Just a warm weather bird. I can play in the monsoons for a little mud and the temp is normally around 75-80 during the rain.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Pretty much a ditto here, except for the temperature, it's cold here, maybe I'll have to come visit AZ so I can get some playing done. In the mean time, I'll do a few things to my Trooper, maybe even a wash and wax. I do love fall season though.

I went for a ride yesterday and the top a arm came out of the spindle and pulled the cv apart. Nothing broken just put it back together but check the bolts so it does not happen to you. It does well in the snow as long as its not to deep. I think it might float if I could get 33s under it but they wont fit unfortunately. It did go over hard crusted snow.

I dropped an upper A arm ball joint myself, after studying the way it's put together, I recommend replace the stock bolt with one that has some unthreaded shank on it and grade 8 hardeness. Everyone should at least check the torque on theirs. The ball joint has a notch in the spindle that allows the bolt to pass and should make it unable to come out, but it wallows the threads off and falls out. The longer shank would resist this. While you have it apart, put some good boots on it.

Yes, the picture is of tie rod, but I bet the boots will fit ball joints also, Checker Auto#13566

Happy Day after Thanksgiving. Watching Indiana Jones and playing on computer. It is cold outside, 62 degrees.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I hope to get one more cold day like that before winter sets in, I have an aversion to going out below 55 and I AINT been out lately. Just wish it was 60+ up here. (up being north). Still eating turkey? we are.

I've got 2 rear Trooper tires & wheels. These are take-offs. slightly used. $100 each plus shipping. A.

Just curious, what did you replace them with. got photos?

for heat.... it would be a little more expensive but using the engine coolant run thruogh a heater core would be better. I've looked at universal kits for around $300. The only problem with heat from the exhaust might be the fumes pushed into the cab. .... just my thoughts. A.

Been thinking about that and it would take a hole in the header pipes to get gassed, other concern might be sucking up dust that gets in the engine compartment. The good part is your only moving air, not liquid.

I've been thinking about a heater to go with an enclosure or to just keep my feet warm. Aircraft use the heat off the exhaust pipe to heat the air and blow it into the cabin. I was think of a shroud or something over the headers and suck air from there up through the area above the front driveling and blow it out on my feet with a muffin fan or something.

Any ideas or comments?

Thanks

Jeff

I think I'm going to go for the roof rack, since I have very little rain here, and I like to take long hauls if possible. I want to do a coast to coast run in Mexico next fall with some friends. We would start in San Felipe, and go over to Ensenada and back. Would use a lot of the roads used by the BAJA races, and the extra space will be necessary to carry extra tires, gas, camping gear and such.

With the roof rack it looks like just 6 bolts or so connect it for the t4, so should be easy enough to take on and off, since I have only 3 inch cleareance coming into my garage at this time.

Now that sounds like a fun ride, is it open to others? I've been watching the baja 1000, my son and friend just ran it, I he said he finished 8th in class and 52nd overall & just over 19 hours, 275x, motorcycle > 250,

I wonder how my tires would last on a trip like that.

You teach me mechanics & I'll teach you pictures, Do you have Microsoft photo editor, I find a photo, copy it, paste as new image into ms photo editor & save, then use paint brush to label it, open http://community.webshots.com/user/TrooperFolk, add the photo, click on the photo, click on the post in a forum link, copy, post in my message. EASY

I just found a diff site that I found interesting, I doubt any of us trooper drivers will use it, but you never know, lots of photos

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...ficial%26sa%3DN

after browsing through this link, I don't think my suggestion to move ring and pinion from front to back has any merit at all, and if I do say so my self, what a stupid idea!!!! To much work to get the correct mesh.

The teeth on the ring gear are curved. so if you picture yourself making a turn in the road the inside lane is shorter than the outside lane. The outside is curve of the tooth is longer. Sorta like water on a dam, it is curved for strength, the water bares on the long side of the dam.

L stands for long

S stands for short

Did I get it right?

and I'm still not convinced that they don't use the same ring & pinion front & rear, the diffs are rotated 180 degrees (the opening on rear is on the right and on the left for the front. As I see it, if the rear pinion is turning the front of the rear ring downward, then the front pinion will be turning the back of the front ring upward, because the diffs are rotated. (still looking for info).

Thanks for not taking my money, don't have any anyway, just spent it on a spot. You did give me something to think about though.

PS what is the long side of the tooth on the gears

I bet they're the same, any mechanics out there that know for sure?

Not a cure and probably no help, but if you put the front diff in the back or at least the ring and pinion and then make the ring and pinion so they don't damage any thing else and enjoy driving your trooper without the advantage of front wheel drive. My dealer suggested stay in two wheel drive until I NEED 4 X 4 and it surprises me how far I go.

OOH, Shudder, Let us know how it turns out, please.

Isn't that called Rodding?

Did you get any photos?, can you get some photos? Will you post some photos, Please.

Especially how you supported the muffler.

Anylizer, by chance do let you customers know about this site?

QUOTE (Kinarfi @ Nov 3 2008, 11:09 PM) New tires on 11-03-08

They look big on the front, but a little small on the back, but I think they'll do great.

Took my new tires out for a ride today, cold, 64.8 km 40.3 mi. They seem to perform great, they are a little harder to turn when not moving, larger contact patch, they didn't seem to float around as bad the stockers did, they were smoother, no lugs, I don't think I spun the wheels as much, and they didn't throw rocks as bad as the stockers and what rocks it did throw were small and what little mud I got into didn't get slung as bad. I expect these tires to last a lot longer than stock also. I did some hill climbing and fire roading and no roads and down hills and quad trails.

I give these tires and A+ and would rather have them than stock. I also think they will do better in sand than stock.

Went out again today to test my tires , hah, I went for a ride because the weather was good. Went to a place called 5 mile pass and then went to the top following the ridge, the "road" was mostly shale and very very rocky, the square type, and the tires and the trooper just putted and roared right up. Didn't see any damage from the nasty rocks and they held their traction just great, I like this tires.

SXS Shoot out

http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/pgi/sidexsideaction_200804/

Correct: 2 mounted used tires for one mounted new tire that meets my specifications, said was a good deal.

Plumber, do you need some wheels for those tires, or maybe some extra wheels? I got another deal for someone, at present I have my old rear tire mounted on top for my spare. I like my new tires that are mounted on 14 X 6 in. wheels and would like a 5th one. If someone wants two (2) used rear tires on the 14 X 8 wheels with tubes, I'll trade for one General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL tire mounted on a stock 14 X 6 in wheel.

The tire in the center, one of the wheels had a rock lodge between the brake and the inside of the wheel. It caused a scratch all the way around and finally caused a shallow dent inwards as the rock shattered. This caused a leak and was repaired using JB Weld epoxy to seal the hole, both inside and out, it worked fine, the tube was put in later when the tire developed a leak in the side wall. Photos later.

Tire shipped to me $98.92

Wheel shipped to me $105.74

Mount tire locally $12.50

Total for (2) used rear tires on the 14 X 8 wheels with tubes $217.16 + shipping.

https://teamjoynerusa.3dcartstores.com/14-x...nt_p_9-117.html

https://teamjoynerusa.3dcartstores.com/14-x...ar_p_9-118.html

Got another deal for someone, at present I have my old rear tire mounted on top for my spare. I like my new tires that are mounted on 14 X 6 in. wheels and would like a 5th one. If someone wants two (2) used rear tires on the 14 X 8 wheels with tubes, I'll trade for one General Grabber AT2 27x8.50 R14 95Q 6PR OWL tire mounted on a stock 14 X 6 in wheel.

The tire in the center, one of the wheels had a rock lodge between the brake and the inside of the wheel. It caused a scratch all the way around and finally caused a shallow dent inwards as the rock shattered. This caused a leak and was repaired using JB Weld epoxy to seal the hole, both inside and out, it worked fine, the tube was put in later when the tire developed a leak in the side wall. Photos later.

Tire shipped to me $98.92

Wheel shipped to me $105.74

Mount tire locally $12.50

Total for (2) used rear tires on the 14 X 8 wheels with tubes $217.16 + shipping.

https://teamjoynerusa.3dcartstores.com/14-x...nt_p_9-117.html