Much to be Gained with X3 6 Arm Clutching - as much as P Drive
-
Similar Topics
-
By esmarkey
Hi, I purchased a used Cub Cadet 750 Challenger that seemed like the belt was slipping so I put a new belt in. It still acts like the belt is slipping but now I am thinking it is the clutch?
What is the best way to remedy this problem?
Can the clutch be rebuilt?
Are there aftermarket clutches available?
-
By Rmillerdesigns
Hello. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU 500. I was putting on a lightbar and i screwed up and didn't disconnect the battery so when i was taking of the positive cable to put on the power from the lightbar it sparked and now the utv has no power. I turn the key over and all i hear is a chirp. No lights or anything. Everything that comes from the battery to the jumper box up by the battery shows voltage but anything coming out does not such as to the winch or anything like that
-
By MilSurpYinzer
Hey all, I was just wondering what you guys consider a necessary upgrade or spare part to have or mod onto your machine.
I'm going for a kind of shtf survival rig that's not going to be SUPER heavy and I'm looking at getting:
A spare belt (I keep seeing this mentioned everywhere I look so it must be important)
A spare tire and mount( So would I need a jack like one from an old jeep or something else?)
Tire chains for the winter
And maybe a cargo bed upgrade so things don't slide out.
Bumpers because duh.
I already installed high output lights and have a windshield, roof, back window, and winch. And I outfitted a Molle panel for the back of my passenger seat with extra supplies like food, first aid, and spare mags.
Any advise on increasing durability, longevity, and having something on hand because it's absolutely necessary would be a plus.
Thanks so much!
-
-
By Andy Dickerson
So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines.
I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there.
I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.