Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi Jim,

I think what you believe to be a vacuum lne is just a drain line from the carb bowl. If you look closely from the backside of carb {flywheel side) you will see a small screw that is really a valve. What model do you have (UTV not engine) and where are you located?

bbirder

Posted

Not sure about Vin #. Didn't get a title with mine. You probably have an older model 700. Does it have single wheel drive , 2 wheel and 4 wheel also. That engine is no longer being made or sold and parts are hard to come by. If you need anything post on here or send me a message. I'll try to help. I'm in South Louisiana.

Posted

Jim

I'm going to attempt to post the valve adj portion of the manual only. hope it works. Watch closely to ID which cyl is #1 and which is #2. Also be very careful wiring up the coils. The wire coming out from them is the kill wire and the key switch connect it to grd to stop engine. *****IF 12V HITS THAT WIRE IT WILL FRY THE COILS . i know because my grandson was helping me and made that mistake. Took me forever to find two coils and they were used and expensive.

valve.adj.eh65.pdf

Posted

Jim, I"ve only seen the double barrel. Saw the single in thge book but not sure if ASW ever used it. The Nikki double barrel is used by severa;l enginde mfg such as Briggs and Kohler. Simple to work on but the carbs are configured differently for other mfgs.Question.......Is your engine running? If it is, I would leave well enough alone until you need to get into it. Sometimes we want to take things apart and clean them and create a bigger problem than we had. Only go after troubles!

Posted

Ooooh-kay. Video sheds a different light on things. Did you strip body panels or did you get it w/o the wrap? TGhose may not be avai;lab ler and if so yhou vcan probably buy a new u nit for what they will cost you. Sounds like trash in the carb `or possibly the governor sertting is off. When removing carb go easy on the four all thread rods that hold it in place. They strip easy in the manifold .I have a book on that carb, I'll find it and send to you. I've never had to change a jet but the orings may go bad. Did you get the repair manual ordered?

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Ryan

I don't see where it would be any different than any other engine. Ask Redbeard. Google him on youtube. I know he runs some and he likes to remove the governor.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 9/2/2023 at 5:12 PM, W B said:

Ooooh-kay. Video sheds a different light on things. Did you strip body panels or did you get it w/o the wrap? TGhose may not be avai;lab ler and if so yhou vcan probably buy a new u nit for what they will cost you. Sounds like trash in the carb `or possibly the governor sertting is off. When removing carb go easy on the four all thread rods that hold it in place. They strip easy in the manifold .I have a book on that carb, I'll find it and send to you. I've never had to change a jet but the orings may go bad. Did you get the repair manual ordered?

Could you send possibly send me the link for the book on this carb

Posted

@EGY

Merry Christmas !

Couldn't find the one I was looking for but these should help you. One thing I can tell you is they are almost identical to the Nikki used on the Briggs engines.except if you can find one for the Subaru it might be 300 bucks and you can find Briggs Carbs in the aftermarket for 35 dollars. I have taken a briggs carb and drilled out the shafts to move to the opposite side to make it fit subaru linkage and moved the intake tube for fuel also. You can buy overhaul kits very reasonable for briggs that will work on the Sub. Mostly just gaskets and o-rings.

Try these links

https://www.partstree.com/models/eh650db8010-eh65-subaru-robin-engine/640-fuel-lubricant-6/

https://youtu.be/bjAjSrpouDc?si=ee0mHe5qP_tZBdJH

https://youtu.be/1K-dEik7Z-0?si=InduVX76UAfVDwZJ

 

WB

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 8/26/2023 at 7:05 PM, W B said:

Not sure about Vin #. Didn't get a title with mine. You probably have an older model 700. Does it have single wheel drive , 2 wheel and 4 wheel also. That engine is no longer being made or sold and parts are hard to come by. If you need anything post on here or send me a message. I'll try to help. I'm in South Louisiana.

Hello, looking for a needle or a float valve on the Subaru 653. Any help? Ty 

Posted
On 12/24/2024 at 10:04 PM, W B said:

@EGY

Merry Christmas !

Couldn't find the one I was looking for but these should help you. One thing I can tell you is they are almost identical to the Nikki used on the Briggs engines.except if you can find one for the Subaru it might be 300 bucks and you can find Briggs Carbs in the aftermarket for 35 dollars. I have taken a briggs carb and drilled out the shafts to move to the opposite side to make it fit subaru linkage and moved the intake tube for fuel also. You can buy overhaul kits very reasonable for briggs that will work on the Sub. Mostly just gaskets and o-rings.

Try these links

https://www.partstree.com/models/eh650db8010-eh65-subaru-robin-engine/640-fuel-lubricant-6/

https://youtu.be/bjAjSrpouDc?si=ee0mHe5qP_tZBdJH

https://youtu.be/1K-dEik7Z-0?si=InduVX76UAfVDwZJ

 

WB

Could you possibly send me pictures of your modified carburetor, please. I’m thinking I really only need the needle or the float valve. 

Posted
7 hours ago, EGY said:

Could you possibly send me pictures of your modified carburetor, please. I’m thinking I really only need the needle or the float valve. 

Do you have the single throat or two barrel carb? What is it doing that makes you think it is the needle valve? I would have to tear into it more than I want to for pics of the detail. If you can't look at it and see what is required I don't recommend you attempting it. Again, what is it doing that makes you think it is the needle valve. You can get overhaul kit for briggs two barrel online relatively inexpensive and the internal parts should fit the Subaru carb. Another thing you can try is lapping your needle valve with a small amount of toothpaste. Sometimes that will fix it up.

  • 2 months later...
  • 9 months later...
Posted

Late to the conversation. We have this engine but won’t keep running. Changed fuel pump, lines, filters. Choke on or off, it won’t stay running after using engine starter. WB, we are in south Louisiana,as well. Would love to find someone close to help us. Thanks

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By jertex
      I bought a 2017 Stampede 900 last fall that was new, old stock with less than 5 hours on it thinking that I would be getting a relatively trouble free UTV as compared to buying a used Polaris or CanAm, or Honda, etc. It's been a little quirky, but reliable. What I thought was just a minor issue with this model, the difficulty in shifting between R, N, L, H, etc., was just a characteristic of this model is now a big problem. I had to climb two very steep trails to get to the upper meadow of our hunting property, which seemed to stress the UTV more than usual since I was carrying some lumber to work on a platform for a hunting blind, and when I went to shift into park, I felt something give and it would not shift out of low, but it did move up into high gear.  I couldn't get it to shift at all at that point and the shifter felt mushy for lack of a better word. I was able to get it down to the lodge and when I investigated, I discovered that the straight, metal tube portion of the shift cable had bent to almost 90 degrees (see pics). I'm positive that it had already had some deformation that had happened previously and it had the right amount of resistance to bend to the point where it was unusable. 
      I have two questions:
      1. I suspect that there must be some other issues that makes this UTV difficult to shift, and I'm wondering if this is a common problem and if someone could enlighten me on what could cause this to be difficult to shift?
      2. Have any of you had this happen and if so, how difficult is it to replace the shifter cable?
      Any other advice is welcome, this is the first UTV that I've ever owned, so I don't know much about working on these or maintaining them. I'm relatively capable when it comes to working on my own vehicles in general, and I'm not afraid to take things apart and get my hands dirty.
      Thanks in advance for any insight, I'll be traveling most the day so I won't get a chance to look at replies until this evening.


       
    • By lincolnsq175
      Ive searched and cannot find any performance parts that fit my machine.
      I have a 2020 coleman ut400.
      Im looking for machined sheave kit, programmers, cdi, exhaust and intake.
      I know these are yamaha rhino clones but are they rhino 450 clones?
       
      Any info is appreciated.
    • By Surfalia
      Just purchased this Old Hisun and it included with a box with a brand new EPS kit. I found YouTube University installation videos and it looks doabke, but maybe the kit is made for newer models because mine doesn't have any extra open plug and play wires I see in the videos that woukd allow me to seamlessly connect the EPS wiring harness too. Has anyone ever retrofitted an EPS kit to a 16 year old model?
      Thank you for any usable input offered. 
      Sincerely, 
      Surfalia
×
×
  • Create New...