Quantcast
Jump to content

Randy

T-2 Rear Wheel Bearing

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have been away from the forums for awhile, just enjoying my Trooper......

I have about 1500 miles on my '08 T2. I do not race, jump or otherwise beat it up except when it is put into extreme 'situations' (which I always manage to get into!) I have all the factory mods plus had a turbo installed by Scott at Unleashed in Cottonwood, AZ. It has been a terrific, bascially trouble-free vehicle so far.

On my last trip, (lake Pleasant to Crown King) the rear wheel lugnuts loosened up, I retightened and later on, the wheel actually wobbled completly off! I guess the bearing had gone and the wobble undid the lugnuts.

The issue is when I replaced my drivers side rear wheel bearing, the OEM replacement I was able to get from SilverBullet in Yuma just pushed right into the hub. I was expecting they would need to be pressed in. I am worried that perhaps the hub is 'worn' or otherwise part of the problem. I could not compare to the other side because I could not get the other axle nut off! Has anyone had some experience in this area they could pass along?

Thanks

Randy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


If the bearing fit in close enough, you could use loctite 272. Be sure to clean the surfaces good and slightly roughen with sandpaper. If the bore is too loose then you will need to have it slightly bored to clean it up and then have a thin sleeve made so everything presses together. If it's loose in there, it will get worse and you will end up replacing the bearing again and boring it anyway. When I replaced mine, I converted to tapered roller bearings. This required a lot of custom fitting but provides about 2-1/2 times the holding strength against side sliding forces which are the destructive forces causing the problem. The Joyner bearing is far too narrow to hold side forces. To get the nut off the other side, use a 3/4" socket drive with braker bar with a pipe. Hold the hub form turning by putting a bar between two lug bolts and to the ground. The nut can be very tight.

Lenny

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Lenny. I did use locktite when I reassembled. I use offset wheels (2-5) for the sand which probably amplifies the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I remember correctly, when I took mine off, the wheel does go on and off by hand, no pressing, but the axle nut needs a whole lot of torque, I borrowed some sockets from Checker Auto and 1/2 breaker bar and 5 feet of pipe to torque mine down, no problems yet, be sure to put the cotter pin in.

Kinarfi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Kinarfi,

Is there a 'spec' on torque somewhere? There does not seem to be anyplace to 'bottom out' the axle nut to, so how do I know when it is tight enough?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Chad Rice
      HELP - my wife and i just bought a 2013 joyner trooper 1100 and we rode for 2 evenings with no problems. Went to ride last night and all of a sudden it acted like something was catching up and it didn't want to move easily. Whatever it was must've broke and now it moves with no problem but is making a rubbing/grinding noise somewhere in the backend. Could it be wheel bearing, differential, or something in cv shaft. Any info or similar experiences is appreciated. 
    • By Anthony Butler
      Soo for my second problem lol, 2009 trooper 1100 5 speed , will not engage 5th gear , all others work fine but seems like 5th doesn't engage completely and wont grab the gear. Any idea on where to start looking for issues, or what to look for in regards to linkage. 
    • By Kelly Stump
      Just put new rings in my joyner trooper 1100 and it still smokes. I dont know what else to do. Can some one tell me why?
    • By Anthony Butler
      So my rear diff lock cable is seized on a 2009 trooper 1100 T2 . How do i remove the end that goes into the diff ? 
    • By Neil Wilson
      I just bought a 2008 Trooper T2 not knowing much about them. On this one the owner said the horn doesn't work, the winch never did work and during inspection the rear brake lights didn't work. He said he replaced the rear light pods recently and the brake lights worked before. He said the fuse module is corroded so he bypassed it and rigged up his own switches for the fuel pump and radiator fan. I see in the wiring diagram the horn and rear brake lights are on the same circuit. Now I am worried the problem is in the wiring harness.
      I have the wiring diagram from the online manual but I can't make any sense of it. I see lots of posts about wiring issues and I am feeling a bit overwhelmed with all the issues I see with these machines and am regretting buying it.
      For now my main concern is to get the brake lights working so I can drive it to some nearby trails. I would appreciate any advice on how to go about diagnosing the problem or workarounds. Also if there is a better wiring diagram out there that might help. I would consider hiring someone local to diagnose it so any recommendations are welcome.
      TIA.


×
×
  • Create New...