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Posted

Hi,

I have been away from the forums for awhile, just enjoying my Trooper......

I have about 1500 miles on my '08 T2. I do not race, jump or otherwise beat it up except when it is put into extreme 'situations' (which I always manage to get into!) I have all the factory mods plus had a turbo installed by Scott at Unleashed in Cottonwood, AZ. It has been a terrific, bascially trouble-free vehicle so far.

On my last trip, (lake Pleasant to Crown King) the rear wheel lugnuts loosened up, I retightened and later on, the wheel actually wobbled completly off! I guess the bearing had gone and the wobble undid the lugnuts.

The issue is when I replaced my drivers side rear wheel bearing, the OEM replacement I was able to get from SilverBullet in Yuma just pushed right into the hub. I was expecting they would need to be pressed in. I am worried that perhaps the hub is 'worn' or otherwise part of the problem. I could not compare to the other side because I could not get the other axle nut off! Has anyone had some experience in this area they could pass along?

Thanks

Randy

Guest Lenny
Posted

If the bearing fit in close enough, you could use loctite 272. Be sure to clean the surfaces good and slightly roughen with sandpaper. If the bore is too loose then you will need to have it slightly bored to clean it up and then have a thin sleeve made so everything presses together. If it's loose in there, it will get worse and you will end up replacing the bearing again and boring it anyway. When I replaced mine, I converted to tapered roller bearings. This required a lot of custom fitting but provides about 2-1/2 times the holding strength against side sliding forces which are the destructive forces causing the problem. The Joyner bearing is far too narrow to hold side forces. To get the nut off the other side, use a 3/4" socket drive with braker bar with a pipe. Hold the hub form turning by putting a bar between two lug bolts and to the ground. The nut can be very tight.

Lenny

Posted

If I remember correctly, when I took mine off, the wheel does go on and off by hand, no pressing, but the axle nut needs a whole lot of torque, I borrowed some sockets from Checker Auto and 1/2 breaker bar and 5 feet of pipe to torque mine down, no problems yet, be sure to put the cotter pin in.

Kinarfi

Posted

Kinarfi,

Is there a 'spec' on torque somewhere? There does not seem to be anyplace to 'bottom out' the axle nut to, so how do I know when it is tight enough?

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