Quantcast
Jump to content

yowaysc

Cold Start Problem

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

We're new to this forum and looking for some help.

We have a 2008 Joyner Renegade R4 800cc. For about a month, we have had trouble starting it when its cold. When the engine is warm, it starts fine. Once we got is started on Saturday, we were out all day and had no problems until Sunday morning when we could not get it started it at all. It's in the shop now and they cannot figure out what is the problem.

There was a lot of sand/dirt in the intake manifold which was cleaned. There is no diagnostic hookup on the machine even though the manual says there is one.

The only other thing that may be worth mentioning is that it overheated a couple of months ago when water hit the fuse box and shorted out the fuse for the fan.

Any help we can get would be very much appreciated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Welcome to the forum, sounds familiar for both Renegades and Troopers, I have the Trooper and have the same problem. Not cured yet, but I'm working on it. If you come with a fix, Please post it.

Again, Welcome to the Forum, a lot of good, helpful people here that are interested in helping and being friendly.

Kinarfi

PS So we can all get to know you a little better, please fill out the profile.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi yowaysc and welcome to UTV Boards. I love the Renegades and good to see a few more owners popping up here.

I have had a problem with starting a Renegade before when cold and it was fuel pressure. Turn your key enough to run the fan and fuel pump once and see what the fuel pressure is. Then do the same another 3 or 4 times without starting and check again. You can wait to see if it drops but I would just go ahead and start it and if this is the problem it will fire up. This problem resolved itself after I took off and reconnect all fuel lines.

I have had two 08 R2s that had the fuel lines plumbed wrong so next time check the routing from the tank onto the Carbon can control valve and fuel filter through to the fuel regulator. Mine would not start and nor should yours if it is plumbed wrong but you never know so still check and while you are there make sure all connections are tight.

I would also check your voltage on your battery. This was the cause of my Trooper not starting. The battery seemed fine, just a little weak but as soon as I replaced with a new battery, away she went. The stock batteries on the 08 models are very average.

Lastly, it could be a failing fuel pump. Hopefully the shop will sort it out for you.

Now, if I'm not mistaking, on the first run of Renegades up to half way through 08, the diagnostic connector wasn't routed back to where it's supposed to be near the ecu (as shown in the Renegades owners manual). Anylizer (a UTV Board member) posted all the good oil on this somewhere so will try and find it for you, but there is most certainly a diagnostic connector.

Cheers Mike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Found it................... Joyner Forum

Cheers Mike

Edit, kinarfi

by Anylizer

after many hours chasing wires, I found the diagnostic connector routed clear up by the fuse/relay box under R/H front fender. Joyner said it should be near the ECU "not". On the mid production 08 models it is, but on the first run of machine they forgot to re-route it to the back. This is a 3 wire connector that doesn't have any thing hooked to it. It is only usefull if you have the scanner. This info is mostly aimed at dealers who might be having trouble finding the diag. port. I also had to remove 2 of the 3 wires from the connector to get data to flow. The center and one of the 2 end ones. I had to trace wire color from ECU to determine which wire was diag. lead. On this particular machine it is the yellow wire, disconect the other two. Good luck A.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By mixfixdave
      I had been wanting to install power steering on my T4 for years so I went to the salvage yard last weekend and bought a complete column (minus airbag) out of a 2009 Nissan Versa for $125 with the ECU.
      It was a fairly simple install. The long shaft that fits to the Joyner steering rack actually fit perfectly into the Nissan column. Had to weld up a U joint on the Nissan column to make it a straight shaft and fab up one simple bracket. Connect power and ground plus a switched 12v and now I can steer with one hand!

       
    • By etimc
      I suspect I have a faulty temp sensor but at the cost of the sensor plus 50 percent tariff plus the shipping cost to Costa Rica, i would like to confirm it - the Hisun 800 has 2 sensors - one in the radiator appears to be a fully open or fully closed bi-metal contact switch similar to the old household thermostats for your heating system. - My fans turn on and off automatically as they should and a jumper across the connector also triggers the fan - appears to be a simple logic circuit back to the computer that then trips a relay for the fans.  The second sensor is on the back cylinder almost hidden by the throttle body and idle control system - I have unplugged it, sprayed it with contact cleaner, checked the pins, tried to get a resistance reading across the sensor, reconnected it and still get a blinking red light on the display panel warning of high temperature - this occurs even when the buggy is still cold having just started it in the morning - I have not been able to trace out the other end of the cable on the display panel since it appears i will have to remove the entire front plastic to get to it - hoping i could confirm the resistance before i go to that step (this is the same buggy originally posted by Jim Magnuson last September when the spark arrestor overheated and burned the plastic pickup bed - I fixed that by removing and cleaning the spark arrestor and it has never glowed red again.  I would really like to put a guage in place of the digital idiot light since (from experience in automobiles) by the time the idiot light goes on you have already damaged the engine - Which brings the second question - would it be advisable to swap the front radiator sensor for a real sensor and then jumper the fans to always on condition at the connector so the computer contentedly thinks everything is working and it is doing its job ?
       
    • By blissman20
      Hey guys, just to give you a bit of back story here first.  I used to ride big mud machines and SxS in the swamp.  Went through a divorce and lost almost everything.  What I got to keep was a snowmobile that I had for years and never rode anymore and wasn’t worth much to me so I decided to try trading it for more or less any UTV/SxS I could.  Well that landed me here, I just traded it for a 2008 Kandi KD650 which is a direct clone of the Joyner Commando 650.  The machine is in rough shape but runs and drives.  I have a few things to repair on it. (Seized choke cable, seized Ignition, and needs a voltage regulator). Going to to princess auto today to pick up a choke cable, and ignition, I have a voltage regulator from an old project that I will wire in.  
      The only thing I am wondering about is the rear end.  The guy I traded it for told me only one rear tire will spin when in 2 wd.  Is that the way all of these are is do  I need to rip it apart.  Also is there any aftermarket support for rear axles or axles that will fit that can be cut down and sleeved and rewelded.  Buddy there did some rednecking with a Polaris axle but not sure how strong it is. 




    • By dewillia
      I have a Joyner 1100cc Sand Viper in need of repair.  Does anyone know a repair shop or mechanic that services these in southern California?
    • By rh242603
      Hello-
       
      New to the forum so luckily there is some help out there lol. Recently bought a 2008 Joyner 1600cc sand viper and loving it. Took it out and had a little accident with a tree stump lol. The stump hit directly on my passenger side tie rod end and broke the heim joint that connects the tie rod end to the wheel. Does anyone know the size of the adjustable heim joint so I can order one? I am having a hard time sourcing one quickly. I am also guessing since it is an outter tie rod end, that it is LH pitched rather than RH? thanks for any help anyone can provide. This is again for the outter tie rod end heim joint that snapped. Thanks


×
×
  • Create New...