This looks to be a pretty common topic and I've had issues with mine overheating since I got it back around the end of 2019. Started running hot again, thermostat was not opening and they sent me a new one. Installed that, burped the system for air all to no avail. Next in line is the water pump to replace, they sent me a water pump and when I got the old one off it was not turning freely to say the least so I'm thinking that could have been my problem. My issue now is getting the slot in the water pump shaft to line up with the tab inside the engine of the machine. Any tricks to doing this? Thanks in advance
By Joe Breaux
Has anyone tried using an external electric water pump on these machines? I watched a video on youtube of one installed on a 1000 cc side by side that had chronic overheating issues in hot weather.. He claimed that after installing a Prius electric automotive pump from junk yard, inline in the inlet hose and bypassing fan temp switch, that the engine never overheated again. .. I am considering trying it on mine...................... Anybody else done this? .................. He did not say if he removed the mechanical pump or not.. would it pump thru that pump?
i have a 2017 cub cadet challenger 750 camo, after a month of nonstop work with the pandemic i was finally getting a chance to ride it. it would not start, the battery was dead, went to charge the battery and noticed a mouse had chewed a yellow wire one of2 going to a block of some kind in battery box, it is tied into the 2 fuse relay breakers attached to the starter relay. there is a red with stripe wire that goes to a harness below the rectifier in engine compartment, it has no power to it with multimeter and the fuse block is getting real hot. other than that the dash lights up, but no readout and the gauges dont cycle, the fuel pump does not start. on the fuel pump i checked the red wires to the cdi and both have contact and are intact but one does not have power when the key is on and there is no spark i tried starting fluid. i have swapped out the cdi from my cousins same year and model, also the ecu and the main relay. i have no idea where to look now. his has broke the shim again and will not start. also i did notice that i wiggled a wire connector going to a sensor on the engine and a couple lights came on on the dash, the stirring wheel one and check engine but only did it once and i cant get it to do it again. i have looked over the harness for anymore damage and have found none.
has anyone seen this problem before, is it wiring? ground? what do i need to check next. the place i bought it has no service the guy said he could only swap parts and try. sent me to another place over an hour from me and that guy on the phone said he was covered up and didnt know when he could look at it so he must be busy lol. besides i dont want to have them charge me $3000 to replace everything on it before they get going.
my advice is do not buy a cub cadet, we thought we were getting a cub cadet and it turns out it is a cheap chinese pos. i still love my cub but wish i had known this before i bought it and i would not have.
any help would be appreciated thanks
I have a 2010 hisun 700 carb model, it was running great all spring during covid then all of a sudden it started stalling at low RPMs and now wont idle at all. It will run if i keep my foot on the gas but its just doesn't sound right so I stopped running it.
My first thought was bad fuel, we had a lot of rain this spring and thought maybe condensation so i drained the tank, changed all the filters and even got new gas line and removed the second tank just to be safe after reading about not need it, still nothing.
Cleaned the carb and still nothing
Bought a new carb just to be safe as they are cheap enough and still running rough
Found the other issue with the Second Air Supply and a hose that comes from the exhaust that was broken, bought a new one of those and tried to attach it and it disintegrated in my hands when i touched it so i tried to attach it to the 1/2 that was left just trying to see if it would complete the vacuum but still ran rough
Changed the oil and filter too just in case it was that but still nothing
Took the new carb apart and cleaned it just to be safe, took out the air/fuel cover which is the stupidest thing when they send it to you without a screw driver to take the cover off so drilled it until a screwdriver could unscrew it - turned it all the way in then backed it out 2 full turns (like everyone says is the starting point) and it ran worse.
Bought a new coil just in case the spark was the issue, installed that and getting good spark so not that.
Bought a new air filter and have to still put that in so will try that tomorrow
Anything I missing, I have tried all i know and there is not enough youtube videos on repairs on these carts so looking for you folks to see if you can assist and give me some guidance on this issue