Jump to content


I been working on my Trooper, all the live long day

Recommended Posts

Seems that's all I do, But then I don't have too many other things to do and I don't do them very fast.

Different set up on the dash front cover, new fenders, new skid plate, some dirt shields to keep the sand, dirt, dust, and hopefully the weeds from blowing down the drive line tunnel. Because my power steering unit has a really really high gain amplifier in it, I have found that any plug & receptacle in the line causes problems, so it's a straight line and soldered connections.

Here's the first of 20, Enjoy 2634376150104110397Mqsxts_th.jpg

I write on a lot of my pictures, to explain what the pict is about.

Working on a new top cover that's retractable. Then maybe a heater, then maybe a windshield, then maybe some doors, Maybe I'll even fix my smoking engine.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff, nice work. I have done something similar to your Inner Firewall Apron on a new Renegade. Its intention was to stop cow crap plastering all over the wires on the inside of the dash. I used the rubber packing mats that come with the UTVs in the crate and tie-on straps, but didn't look as good as yours. You have done a good job here, however I hope those magnets dont move to much with all the vibration. 10 out of 10 for thinking outside the box. If they fail, try some Velcro. That way you can still get in. I think this subject deserves its own thread.

The Dirt shield is a good idea too and the new guards are an improvement from last time & will do the job.

Here is an idea that you might want to contemplate. The new 2011 Troopers (when they are released) with have an oil cooler added, an air scoop on the side and a new modular safari bed. All three improvements are to help the engine run cooler. My idea for the current models is to incorporate a air scoop in the front to ram air onto the engine and or into the air filter. One hose for on-top of engine and one for the air filter. You have your Air filter moved up like a snorkel so no need to ram air into it from the front. It would not be too hard with flexi hose, even with a bonnet(hood) that opens like yours to put an air scoop on-top of the bonnet. Thats just in case you're looking for a new project, after you finish this one Jeff.

Keep me up to date with your retractable top cover, who knows your design might be picked up.

Cheers Mike.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the retractable sun screen done for the most part, Now all I have to do is find someone to help me sell it

When my wife I go for a ride in my Yukon, I can never see what's up above us on her side. When we started going in the Trooper, it was so nice to be able to look up, but I messed that up with a top cover/sun screen, now I can have which ever I want most. The fabric is off my airplane and has rib pockets sewn into it which I can put stiffener in, but it may leak in the rain, we'll see. Because it is quite flexible, at speed, the back kind of bulges up with the wind, no big deal. So far, I like it.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Robbie Wyre
      I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles.  I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge.   Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out?   Any suggestions please and thank you.
    • By dalerio007
      i have a 2017 cub cadet challenger 750 camo, after a month of nonstop work with the pandemic i was finally getting a chance to ride it. it would not start, the battery was dead, went to charge the battery and noticed a mouse had chewed a yellow wire one of2 going to a block of some kind in battery box, it is tied into the 2 fuse relay breakers  attached to the starter relay. there is a red with stripe wire that goes to a harness below the rectifier in engine compartment, it has no power to it with multimeter and the fuse block is getting real hot. other than that the dash lights up, but no readout and the gauges dont cycle, the fuel pump does not start. on the fuel pump i checked the red wires to the cdi and both have contact and are intact but one does  not have power when the key is on and there is no spark  i tried starting fluid. i have swapped out the cdi from my cousins  same year and model, also the ecu and the main relay. i have no idea where to look now. his has broke the shim again and will not start. also i did notice that i wiggled a wire connector going to a sensor on the engine and a couple lights came on on the dash, the stirring wheel one and check engine but only did it once and i cant get it to do it again. i have looked over the harness for anymore damage and have found none.
      has anyone seen this problem before, is it wiring? ground? what do i need to check next. the place i bought it has no service the guy said he could only swap parts and try. sent me to another place over an hour from me  and that guy on the phone said he was covered up and didnt know when he could look at it so he must be busy lol. besides i dont want to have them charge me $3000 to replace everything on it before they get going.
      my advice is do not buy a cub cadet, we thought we were getting a cub cadet and it turns out it is a cheap chinese pos. i still love my cub but wish i had known this before i bought it and i would not have.
      any help would be appreciated thanks
    • By paraord
      Hey guys,

      While installing the High lifter lift kit in my 2015 Mule 4010 I nicked the piston, strut rod, the shiney rod in the middle that I cant remember the name (no coffee yet this morning). I knew the nick was deep enough to eventually tear up the seal and she'd let loose. Well 3 months or so down the road here we are, its blown out. 
      My question is how do I know which strut I have? I see 2 listed in the exploded 45023-1006 and the 45023-7503. The difference is the spring rate or K value. Seeing as I have high lifter springs does it matter the K value? And if that's the case can I use any of the 45023 prefix struts from various other models? 

      Thanks all,
    • By josephb
      I've had to remove and replace a couple axles in the past. Now I just can't remember how I did it. Yes, the spindle and hub is removed. Any trick to help would be greatly appreciated. T I A.
    • By Joey Miller
      Hey I finally found a joyner I could afford lol I just bought a 2008 joyner sand viper 800cc I like it but it needs work that's not the issue me being a mechanic issue is I can't seem to find the parts I need like everything else I've worked on I'm not even sure what would work so I need advice from some one who has been there for now the things I need the most are rear shocks , I need the upper and lower ball joints or Johnny joints whatever they are called and I'm sure this had a fuel pressure regulator before now it just has some random inline pump no filter runs good for 15 mins or so then runs pretty crappy but if I let it sit a bit same thing I know it's going out but I need to know what I can do to sub for the factory pump and what psi requirement it has that's it for now any help would be appreciated

  • Create New...