By Robbie Wyre
I'm working on a 2005 Cub Cadet side by side and I'm trying to remove the front two axles. I have a slide hammer puller on the inner joint and with all my strength they will not budge. Anyone have the same issues and is there something I'm missing or a trick of some sort to pull these out? Any suggestions please and thank you.
i have a 2017 cub cadet challenger 750 camo, after a month of nonstop work with the pandemic i was finally getting a chance to ride it. it would not start, the battery was dead, went to charge the battery and noticed a mouse had chewed a yellow wire one of2 going to a block of some kind in battery box, it is tied into the 2 fuse relay breakers attached to the starter relay. there is a red with stripe wire that goes to a harness below the rectifier in engine compartment, it has no power to it with multimeter and the fuse block is getting real hot. other than that the dash lights up, but no readout and the gauges dont cycle, the fuel pump does not start. on the fuel pump i checked the red wires to the cdi and both have contact and are intact but one does not have power when the key is on and there is no spark i tried starting fluid. i have swapped out the cdi from my cousins same year and model, also the ecu and the main relay. i have no idea where to look now. his has broke the shim again and will not start. also i did notice that i wiggled a wire connector going to a sensor on the engine and a couple lights came on on the dash, the stirring wheel one and check engine but only did it once and i cant get it to do it again. i have looked over the harness for anymore damage and have found none.
has anyone seen this problem before, is it wiring? ground? what do i need to check next. the place i bought it has no service the guy said he could only swap parts and try. sent me to another place over an hour from me and that guy on the phone said he was covered up and didnt know when he could look at it so he must be busy lol. besides i dont want to have them charge me $3000 to replace everything on it before they get going.
my advice is do not buy a cub cadet, we thought we were getting a cub cadet and it turns out it is a cheap chinese pos. i still love my cub but wish i had known this before i bought it and i would not have.
any help would be appreciated thanks
While installing the High lifter lift kit in my 2015 Mule 4010 I nicked the piston, strut rod, the shiney rod in the middle that I cant remember the name (no coffee yet this morning). I knew the nick was deep enough to eventually tear up the seal and she'd let loose. Well 3 months or so down the road here we are, its blown out.
My question is how do I know which strut I have? I see 2 listed in the exploded 45023-1006 and the 45023-7503. The difference is the spring rate or K value. Seeing as I have high lifter springs does it matter the K value? And if that's the case can I use any of the 45023 prefix struts from various other models?
By Joey Miller
Hey I finally found a joyner I could afford lol I just bought a 2008 joyner sand viper 800cc I like it but it needs work that's not the issue me being a mechanic issue is I can't seem to find the parts I need like everything else I've worked on I'm not even sure what would work so I need advice from some one who has been there for now the things I need the most are rear shocks , I need the upper and lower ball joints or Johnny joints whatever they are called and I'm sure this had a fuel pressure regulator before now it just has some random inline pump no filter runs good for 15 mins or so then runs pretty crappy but if I let it sit a bit same thing I know it's going out but I need to know what I can do to sub for the factory pump and what psi requirement it has that's it for now any help would be appreciated