Moab Report
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By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
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By rdc
Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By MilSurpYinzer
Anyone decent with electrical work that knows a good tutorial on how to make my running lights switch off all together but also turn back on when I need too? I'd assume that my lights are hard wired to the battery or the fuse panel.
Vehicle is a Kawasaki Krx 1000
I'm looking to ad IR driving lights for night vision and short of just putting black tape over the lights I feel this would be a more efficient option and it would be cooler.
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By jugliner
I have a fuel injected UT400 that will start and idle, but surges and sputters at higher speed. It has been sitting for 2-3 months and was fine when parked in garage. I assumed it was a fuel/air problem and pulled the throttle body and cleaned it up. I've ended up replacing the injector, IAC valve, MAF Temp Pressure Sensor, and fuel filter. I've also checked the spark plug, Still surging. I reset the ECU after every component swap.
I plan to pull the throttle body again and look evrything over for any visible leaks, etc.
Any suggestions would be appreciated on next steps. The problem developing after sitting makes me think it should be something simple, but I'm stumped. BTW the fuel was fresh and treated with Stabil.
Thanks.
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