By Jon Spruill
Hey Guys, I have been chasing a stalling condition for about two weeks now. The bike will crank up and idle fine, then after about 20 seconds it will fall on its face and stall. It happens at both idle and while running at various rpms. You can turn the key off, turn it back on and it will fire right back up without trouble. I have verified spark on both cylinders with a spark tester. I have also added an inline fuel filter, and pulled the injectors to verify proper pulse on each. Things I have replaced - (relearn procedure performed after each component replaced): spark plugs, ECU, relay/fuse box, fuel pump, & throttle position sensor - all with no improvement of the condition. The only warning light I get when the condition occurs is the oil lamp. The bike only has 14 miles. I am at a loss and appreciate any help and suggestions! Thanks
By Bill Hughes
Looking for tips on the engine oil change . First oil change is coming up in a month. Any tips from Buck 450 owners?
If you pay any attention to your UT400, you have probably noticed that the right front wheel tips in at the top a LOT. The left fronts seem to be about right from what I've seen. I look at them all when I'm at different stores just to see if they're all that way, and yes, they all seem to be that way.
There "should" be adjustments on either the ball joints or the inner pivot points, but these are solid, not way to adjust them.
I have the UT400 up on my 2-post lift and the right spindle seems to be around 3-deg tipped in at the top and the left spindle is about straight or maybe half a degree tipped in. This is at full suspension drop, not ride height. I took the shocks off and rotated the spindles from bottom travel to full max up travel, way more than the shocks will allow. The higher the spindle lift, the more tip in there is on both spindles. This is true because of the unequal upper and lower A-arms. It's just the nature of of the dual A-arms and them being unequal in length.
I took the inner pivot 8mm bolts out and inserted a lot smaller 1/4" bolts and pushed the lower A-arm inward and the angle on the spindle decreased. I then took the top inner bolts out and did the same thing, but pulled out instead. This got the spindle equal to angle of camber on the left side. I used the offset in the holes to see how much I need to go on the lower alone. I was also concerned about bottoming out the axle assembly because the spindle centerline will not be a bit closer to the front diff. But as it all turned out, it was not close to bottoming out.
I cut about 1/4" out of the two 1" A-arm tubes as they were welded to the lower ball joint mount casting. I tack welded them back together and trial fit it all together. That seemed to be about right. I took it all back apart and welded it up solid. Now it all looks to match the left side quite well.
Also want to use this in our yard and the stock tires are NOT turf friendly, especially with the solid "spool" rear differential. I found these on Amazon, 25x12-12" and 25x8-12" hard pack race tires as they're called. They're 6-ply and tubeless. The initial probably I had was that the size rating was not even close to the actual size. They said, install and then recheck the diameters and I did. They did get larger, but the rears are more than 1" smaller in diameter than the side wall stamping. Instead of 25", they're 23.75" tall. What I DON'T WANT are shorter tires. I had already purchased the used wheels at 12" to match the original factory diameter, but in hindsight I would now opt for 14" wheels with 4x110mm bolt pattern and would have been able to find a tire in the 27" diameter range a lot easier and cheaper. Live and learn they say.
Here are some pictures of before and after.
DO NOT BUY ANY THING FROM HISUN Period! I had the axis 700 for 2 months when a rat or squirrel ate both wiring harnesses. (Main & ECM)Wanna know why? Because the manufacture of these things in their infinite wisdom use either, a soybean oil or a peanut oil to run the wires through the the wire loom. Hmmm i wonder why they would be inclined to eat the wires. So now I have $10K machine that I've only had for 2 months when all this happened and they will not warranty it at all. It is going to cost me $800 to $1000 to get this fixed. Here is a link to a video showing where we took our Hisun notice how many are there:
So counting mine, there are 16 of Hisun Axis on the lot that i took in for authorized dealer, with the exact same problem, plus other troubles that the mechanic explained to me. This particular place told me they are not going to work on them anymore. I will be posting this in as many places as possible to reach the masses. I hope its worth Hisun!