Quantcast
Jump to content


Location of Computer and O2 Sensors.


Recommended Posts

Where is the computer located on the T4, my intention is to do a test this weekend, and most likely will need to swap the computer where we are testing at. Also recommended tools to replace the computer.

Second question oxygen sensors I also want to test disconnecting them, What I though I heard is there are 2 of them on the exaust manifold.

Pictures would be very helpful, since the manual doesn't show a good location.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

The location of the computer is behind the drivers seat or on the T4 it should be behind the seat behind the drivers seat. You will need a 10mm socket with short extension with rachet driver and a 10mm box or open end wrench. To remove the plug from the computer, pull the grab tab or end of the plug, you will see wha tI mean, out the end about 3/4" and this will release the plug. Yes there are 2 oxygen sensors, one in the exhaust manifold before the cat converter and the other is after. You can just unplug them. Keep in mind that the computer uses the oxygen sensor information to determine if the air fuel ratio is correct for the moment by moment operation of the engine based on various conditions. The computer looks at various sensors like temperature, tps, manifold pressure, barometric pressure, etc. and controls spark timing and injector pulse width based on values in a table. The computer then looks at the oxygen sensor to see if the air fuel mixture matches the table and if not, it ajdust accordingly. The oxygen sensor sends a voltage signal to the computer telling it what the ratio is so the computer is looking for a value in x volts. Can't remember which way it is but if it's looking for say 3 volts and it gets 0 volts or 5 volts (maybe considered a default value) then the computer may attempt to adjust accordingly and cause a running problem. Not sure if the computer will know if there is no signal and not consider the sensor ratio and do nothing. In this case it should run ok otherwise it could be a problem. Someone else maybe has tried it and can respond. Good luck.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have disconnected my o2 sensors in the past first it will run very rich, very hard to start when cold. Then as time passes 1 or 2 months it will start to show other signs of odd running, stumbeling when you shift and possibly surging between 2000 and 3000 RPM. I hooked the o2 sensor before the cat back up and left the one after disconnected. The sensor before the cat is the main one, it tells the ECM what amount of fuel to give the engine and also where the timming should be. The signal it sends for timming is critical that is where the surge will come from. The one after the cat is for emmisions( gov. regs) you don't need it and it won't affect your ECM or the way it runs. All this is what I found out on my own T2 yours might act differiently so it is up to you what you do. I spent a lot of money trying to correct the problems that arose from my dissconecting the o2 sensors instead of just hooking them back up. I was just to hard headed for my own good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Randyh79
      Has anyone had to replace the dash light on their Highsun?
    • By BOYD
      I have a 2004 KUBOTA RTV 900 DIESEL and I need to replace both front cv axels.I have been online looking at them and there seems to be a lot of different manufactures to choose from. My question is who makes a good aftermarket set of cv axels for this KUBOTA. I have read horror stories of people buying the  cheap Chinese brand only to find out they don't fit or they don't last very long and fail again. I hate to have to spend over $200 a shaft to get OEM from KUBOTA when I'm sure there is a company out there who probably makes it for them or makes comparable to OEM. Thanks for your help.
    • By Greg Kilgore
      I would really like to know what you guys think about this. I'll try not to ramble and make it as clear as I can.
       
      I took this new job with companyX as a fiber splicer a year ago. I have a 45' bucket truck and 10or12 x 8 ft enclosed splice trailer I have to take home. Within the last 6 months all the management in the splice dept left. Now the power/construction management and higher ups are filling in. Just recently we were told travel to our 1st job is not payable even though we are in a company vehicle. 
      We are union so I asked the union business manager about this. His reply was be grateful you were paid travel as long as you were and that you don't have to drive your POV to the job.
       
      Last week I had 50hr total. The job area is 4-4.5 hrs away. My time was reduced to 44.5 hrs since we were told this travel thing on Tuesday of that week. I wasn't hired for this area. I was hired for area a lot closer to home. 
       
      Pay is good. Work is not hard. Insurance is through the union and so far pretty good.
      But I hate the thought of having to work extra just to make a 40hr paycheck. Anyone who has to drive as part of their job knows windshield time is not easy.
       
      Anyway what do you guys think. Should I look for a different job or just suck it up because of the decent pay and health insurance.
    • By Randyh79
      Does the transmission share the crank case oil with the engine or does it have its own oil seperate from the engine?
    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
×
×
  • Create New...