Quantcast
Jump to content

Location of Computer and O2 Sensors.


Detbohica

Recommended Posts

Where is the computer located on the T4, my intention is to do a test this weekend, and most likely will need to swap the computer where we are testing at. Also recommended tools to replace the computer.

Second question oxygen sensors I also want to test disconnecting them, What I though I heard is there are 2 of them on the exaust manifold.

Pictures would be very helpful, since the manual doesn't show a good location.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

The location of the computer is behind the drivers seat or on the T4 it should be behind the seat behind the drivers seat. You will need a 10mm socket with short extension with rachet driver and a 10mm box or open end wrench. To remove the plug from the computer, pull the grab tab or end of the plug, you will see wha tI mean, out the end about 3/4" and this will release the plug. Yes there are 2 oxygen sensors, one in the exhaust manifold before the cat converter and the other is after. You can just unplug them. Keep in mind that the computer uses the oxygen sensor information to determine if the air fuel ratio is correct for the moment by moment operation of the engine based on various conditions. The computer looks at various sensors like temperature, tps, manifold pressure, barometric pressure, etc. and controls spark timing and injector pulse width based on values in a table. The computer then looks at the oxygen sensor to see if the air fuel mixture matches the table and if not, it ajdust accordingly. The oxygen sensor sends a voltage signal to the computer telling it what the ratio is so the computer is looking for a value in x volts. Can't remember which way it is but if it's looking for say 3 volts and it gets 0 volts or 5 volts (maybe considered a default value) then the computer may attempt to adjust accordingly and cause a running problem. Not sure if the computer will know if there is no signal and not consider the sensor ratio and do nothing. In this case it should run ok otherwise it could be a problem. Someone else maybe has tried it and can respond. Good luck.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have disconnected my o2 sensors in the past first it will run very rich, very hard to start when cold. Then as time passes 1 or 2 months it will start to show other signs of odd running, stumbeling when you shift and possibly surging between 2000 and 3000 RPM. I hooked the o2 sensor before the cat back up and left the one after disconnected. The sensor before the cat is the main one, it tells the ECM what amount of fuel to give the engine and also where the timming should be. The signal it sends for timming is critical that is where the surge will come from. The one after the cat is for emmisions( gov. regs) you don't need it and it won't affect your ECM or the way it runs. All this is what I found out on my own T2 yours might act differiently so it is up to you what you do. I spent a lot of money trying to correct the problems that arose from my dissconecting the o2 sensors instead of just hooking them back up. I was just to hard headed for my own good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SteveMO
      Folks:

      I live on 11 acres that demands a bit of maintenance, and co-own a large farm a couple of hours away that I hunt on (professionals do the farming).   My mowing/brush control/trail maintenance duties are handled by a 57" rough cut mower (Kunz brand), and I also drag logs and pull sprayers and seeders for food plots and such.
      I've been using a  pair of ATV's for decades to handle this work - a 750 for when I need real power (or need both machines at the same time when I have help) and a 500 cc with fixed rear axle for most duties.

      Some of the places I need to work are VERY rough, and very three-dimensional, with steep ups and downs and some side-hilling I've learned the hard way not to try with my independent rear suspension 750, but handle with ease with my fixed rear suspension 500.

      I've decided I want to sell the 750 and replace it with a UTV that I hope to use as my main workhorse.  If anyone makes a working UTV that fits my specs that's what I'm gonna do.  This is an all-work machine, I don't do any recreational riding so don't care about things like top speed.

      So looking for advice on what models might handle what I'm looking for:

      Gotta have:
      2 passenger (1 row)
      selectable 4wd
      Power steering
      Selectable gearing (not CVT)
      Power-assisted dump bed
      Engine cooling adequate for all-day slow-speed work in the summertime.  Like towing a 700lb mower at 4mph all day in 100° weather)
      Beefy tow rating, including tonque weight.  Nobody ever mentions tongue weight because that exposes how crappy independent rear suspension is for towing safely in rough terrain.

      Really want:
      Selectable locking diff
      Fixed rear axle (Isolates tongue weight from rear suspension.  Holds more stable & consistent center of gravity than IRS over side-slopes and other complex terrain, and keeps geometry and suspension response consistent over wide range of tongue-weight of towed loads)
      Slow speed cruise control (Factory option or aftermarket, covering at least 4mph - 10mph. For calibrated spraying and controlled mowing speed.
      Muffler designed for quiet operation for comfortable all-day use, and to minimize disturbance for getting to hunting grounds.  Not concerned about normal motor noise, but don't want something specifically piped to "sound fun".

      Any advice on brands or models I'm most likely to have luck with?
       
    • By Spencer Marks
      Hello all, 
      I just finished replacing my front and rear drive shafts. I drained and put new dif fluid in the rear dif. I went to the local dealer and they told me the fill capacity of the front and the transmission as I want to replcae that as well but they could not tell me how to access the fill. One how do I access the fill for front dif and 2 is the transmission fill the same as the rear dif? I don't see a dip stick or fill for the transmission but all in same area.

      Also, anyone can suggest a good shop/service manual for this bike?

      Thanks

      Spencer
    • By Steve Yancey
      Hi all,
      I run an independent service shop. I'm curious to know what y'all use for diagnostic tools. I'd like to find an 'agnostic' tool - something not tied to any one manufacturer and that I can use for any UTV/ATV/bike & snowmobile. I'm willing to pay a little more if it's a good one - something with automatic updates to stay current. Bonus if it comes with training on how to use it. Any ideas you can offer are appreciated. Thanks!
    • By Rainman
      2021 Coleman 400 UTV
      So it seems I've been smelling exhaust, but I have a super sensitive sense of smell. So I went around the UTV today after running it a little and after shutting it off, I noticed some smoke vapors slowly coming out the tailpipe. I also noticed a couple spots above the exhaust pipe that had some carbon deposits on it, which looked like the muffler was leaking out exhaust just above where the back plate bolts into the back of the muffler. I then looked in the tailpipe and it was completely covered with black soot.
      Is there an adjustment to make, as it seems this is running way too rich?
    • By Stephanie
      The dump box on my machine doesn’t work. I think it’s the fuse but cannot remember where it’s located. Please help. 
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...