Quantcast
Jump to content

Stupid Stunts


Kinarfi
 Share

Recommended Posts

Tempted to Pin this topic so we can warn each other of what NOT to do and things that shouldn't be done.

My most recent was trying to fix a leak in the gas tank.

When I put my skid plate on, I used long bolts so I could get them all started, then run all the bolts in tight,2486523550104282158ZfQShM_th.jpg I checked the clearances and all was good, then ran over some rock and drove the long bolts up against the gas tank 2029212100104282158mfjiKa_th.jpg which deformed the tank and caused a leak where the aluminum could not flex. 2327948430104282158FwbRUU_th.jpg When I went to fixing it, I assumed the leak was where the bolt had hit the tank,2419160460104282158ZnGTtV_th.jpg WRONG! When I filled it back up, still had the leak, so I pulled it out and blew some air into the tank and started squirting it with soapy water so I could see the leak in the bubbles, the pressure was too great so all I did was feel the the air, no bubbles, but I found the leak, plugged it with JB Weld and put in in and filled it up again, This time the leak was in a different area and worse. Pulled the tank again and found the and patched it and put it back in and went to Panquich, Utah to do some riding with Lenny, I left the tank empty until I got there (so did Lenny, only I filled my tank, Lenny didn't and ran out of gas :lol: ). It appears that I forgot to take a picture of the fix using JB Weld, the two part epoxy mix, what I did was mix the epoxy, cover the leak and apply vacuum which pulled the epoxy inside and filling the hole from inside to outside. Rode for over a 100 miles and not leaks.

Lesson Learned!!!!

Don't use compressed air to pressurize the aluminum fuel tank, use the exhaust of a vacuum cleaner. I swelled the top and bottom, probably the sides too, and the swelling caused the welded seems to stretch and open, Dumb, Really Dumb!!!!!

Klinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Steve Vanvelzen
      I Recently purchased a Massimo T-Boss 550F last fall with their 60" snow thrower because I couldn't find a decent UTV here in Southern Ontario; nothing in stock anywhere. I am having really bad buyer's remorse after spending time on it and reading all the bad online reviews. The company boasts the fact that it is built in Texas, USA, so I was hoping to do the right thing by buying, "Made In North America" but it is still Chinese Junk, assembled in the USA. and I am starting to realize that I am going to have a lot of difficulty getting parts for this thing; I can't even get an oil filter, finally bought a "Hisun" filter and hope it fits. i busted the shear pins in the snow thrower and can't find replacements for that either. The thing is so hard to change gears most of the time; I am terrified I am going to wreck something. The place I purchased it from is absolutely useless. Can I adjust something myself? Anyone out there have this problem and have some advice (besides selling it and buying a good brand)?
    • By Hisun .500
      So my hisun 500 is tore up and all the wiring is wasted i was wondering can i pull out all the wiring and just put in the. Basics .please help
    • By Alex
      Its maker has affectionately dubbed it Teslaris, for obvious reasons.
      The Polaris RZR RS1 UTV has a one-liter, two-cylinder engine that from the factory has around 100 horsepower, making the 1,383-pound (627-kilogram) UTV very quick. But there’s always room for more power in one of these vehicles, and instead of fettling with its engine, one dune vehicle aficionado decided to swap in the rear drive motor out of a Tesla Model 3 / Model Y.
      We don’t know how many of the battery modules the put in the vehicle, but it doesn’t appear to be much heavier than stock and it goes up sand dunes with remarkable ease. Depending on which version of Model 3 was the motor donor, the drive unit could have either 261 or 325 horsepower, as long as the battery pack can supply enough wattage and voltage.
      Judging by how easily it flies up the steep sand dune, almost lifting the front wheels off the ground under harder acceleration, it’s safe to say it looks like a real hoot. The steep grade you see it tackling in the video uploaded by the electric UTV’s creator, Ron Cobbley, is located in the St. Anthony, Idaho sand dunes.
      We found more videos on vehicle’s official Instagram account and aside from how interesting it is to see an electric powertrain in an application like this (and how it changes the vehicle), we also noticed that you really hear the tires on the sand more. Usually, this sound is drowned out by the engine.

      The sound’s tone and pitch probably change with speed, giving the driver audible information to help him or her gauge their speed. You don’t really get this in a road-going EV driven on tarmac, which is why it’s trickier to drive an EV quickly - specifically because you have no way of knowing how fast you’re going just by ear.
      Source: https://insideevs.com/news/559789/polaris-utv-tesla-motor-dunes/
    • By Rick McGill
      I thought the problem was electrical but I just found this in the oil filler tube. Does anyone recognize the part? I know I'll have to tear down the whole engine, and maybe I'll find the rest of it in there. Something beg enough to seize up the engine. That was the problem I was trying to diagnose.... 'Cause it's locked up. 
      Thanks in advance.
      Rick
       

       

       
       
    • eManualOnline
    • By Travis
      I'm getting a small area of rust starting behind each front wheel, (where the cow pies get slung). I'm pleased with the job POR15 did in the bed, so i will just repeat the process in that area. however, i'm not sure how POR15 will hold up to cow crap getting slung on it.. and my reasoning  is Cow poo is somewhat acidic, and when left too long with out cleaning off, starts to lift paint, so i don't know how that will affect POR15. what i'm thinking of doing getting steel sheeting with aluminum finish, or a stainless steel sheet  and bend it and fit it to the inside of the wheel well to form somewhat of a "splash/splatter" guard  to protect the actual frame and sheet metal from further corrosion as well as were I ....there are several places where i could tack weld it to the frame underneath...
       
       
  • Gallery Images


×
×
  • Create New...