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By lonerider98
At the end of last year my Coleman UT 500 will not go into reverse. I can hold it over toward the reverse to move it nut it won't lock into reverse. Anyone have this problem? Winter is just about over and going to have to get this resolved. Thank You!
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By moonrover
Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them. This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch.
Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator? Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator? If the answer is yes, I want to drain or extract some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out
Thank you.
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By alevins
Good day all,
searching here but cannot find the answer, Hisun been working fine and now reverse limiter seems to be engaging and cannot back up, cannot find a clear solution to disable the limiter. found a possible relay? not sure which one or to cuut a wire at ecu but a picture or diagram would be helpful
thank you for any help in advance
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By Rizzguy
Don’t waste your time everybody with rpm motorsports, Omaha. They are people that don’t even work on sxs’s. Trying to tell you how to install things.
Completely uneducated guy tried to tell me I did not install a mid pipe correctly when it won’t install correctly; that was the reason for the video and the complaint that I called him about.
This mid pipe has a 1 inch gap at the rear, and the only way to close it up is with a longer bolt, and to stretch the flex at the Exhaust
After one ride, the rear bolts have disappeared, because how much tension there is on the flex
And the bolts does not line up at the flange
Have a video before and after. And they are telling me that it’s my fault because it does not fit
wtf.!
What kind of idiotic people are even answering the phones these days.?
This guy has probably only read a book and never even driven a motorcycle in his life
Don’t waste your time with this bullshit products
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