BuggyBoy

Just to be clear, removing the brake pedal switch doesn't fully remove regen, it just stops it activating alongside the brakes - if you fo down a hill over 10 kmh in low, regen will still activate. You don't actually have to physically remove the switch either. If you get down and look at the break pedal closely you will see a very small reed switch and two wires coming out of it and going through the bulkhead. If you then trace/identify those two wires coming out of the other side of the bulkhead, from memory all you have to do is cut them and join them together with a connector block. This permanently completes the circuit (the reed switch works by breaking the circuit when you brake). This worked for me, but i'm not an electrician or expert so cant gaurantee it will work for you...! if it doesn't work, you can simply connect the wires back up using the connector block as you haven't removed the switch.

I had a problem with regen braking tripping the battery BMS's at max regen down a step hill - the whole system would shut off and would only reset with ignition on/off. Would also somehow throw the batteries out of sync and they then wouldn't charge properly with the onboard DeltaQ charger, had to buy a cheap $100 48v separate charger that didn't care about voltage differences and would bring them all back up to 52v. The DeltaQ would then charge as normal. Fixed the issue by removing the regen brake pedal switch - still have regen if i go over 10kmh, but means i can now control when i want regen (i.e. batteries are very low). Had no issues since, but do miss the extra braking power down the very steep hill. One thing i miss about the old AGM's - no sensitive BMU to shut off batteries if current/heat exceeds limits, but better to extend battery lifr in the long run of course...

What does that do?

Great, cheers

What’s the Polaris peddle lock solution? Need this as well - truley a crap design on the Hisun! any links available to it?

After a bit of experimenting it would seem to be after max discharge rate is reached. If I go up the hill in low then all is fine - external battery monitor shows charging to 100%, battery lights all show 100%. If go up in high then i get batteries discharged to different levels and charging shows odd readings. I suspect some of the batteries are exceeding thier 10sec 400a discharge and becoming a unbalanced with the rest of the pack. The onboard charger then thinks the lower batteries are two low to charge and wont charge. Isolating the batteries and then using an external charger that can charge from a low state of discharge to bring them back up seems to work. The Delta charger then brings the pack back up to 100%. I think I need a 5th battery to deal with the very steep hill and spread the load, and keep it in low. Should solve the issue.

They fit directly into the current battery box. Would have had to cut out sections and move controllers etc.. to fit one large unit. Also better when one battery fails you are just replacing one battery and the buggy will still work with three - just looses a bit of range - until the battery is replaced, I.e no down time. charger - same issue with onboard or external, so unlikely it’s the charger. BMS’s most likely as already had to change one. Seems to always happen after a steep hill climb using around 350a-400a draw, sometimes ok but other times one battery will indicate under 10% and the others much higher. Seems like they discharge/charge at different rates, not sure how that is possible as all connected. I thought the BMS’s and canbus connections were supposed to balance it all out. Possible the voltage difference becomes to much and the BMMS’s refuse to charge?

So have Allion GC2 batteries which are great. Chosen a charging profile which should suit them but get really odd charging scenarios. According to the lights on each battery, one battery will be under 20%, one fully charged, and the others at random levels. Sometimes all fully charged, and then after a few minutes back to random levels again. The battery monitor (Allion) gauge also shows random states of charge flicking between say 10% then 80% and all over the place. Clearly an issue somewhere - cables are slightly oversized and don’t get hot, all connections solid. 12v battery seems fine. Anyone else experienced this?

Well, now I'm wanting to easily disable the regen as don't need it and it keeps tripping the battery BMS's when fully charged going down a hill (too much current, nowhere to go) as i suspected it would. I've attached two pics - on the one called 'Microswitch' is this the switch that activates the regen based on pedal positions (looks like it breaks a circuit when brake pedal is pressed?). Presumably, if that switch stayed closed the regen wouldn't activate when braking? (assume the speed-based regen would still kick in at some point though). The other pic is of a what i thought was the wiring/connector from the microswitch. I unplugged it, the ATV went a few meters then stopped. Plugged it in, and it went again. Any idea what this connecter is?

I'm wanting to easily disable the regen as don't need it and it keeps tripping the battery BMS's when fully charged going down a hill (too much current, nowhere to go). I've attached two pics - on the one called 'Microswitch' is this the switch you are referring to that activates the regen based on pedal positions (looks like it breaks a circuit when brake pedal is pressed?). Presumably, if that switch stayed closed the regen wouldn't activate when braking? (assume the speed-based regen would still kick in at some point though). The other pic is of a what i thought was the wiring/connector from the microswitch. I unplugged it, the ATV went a few meters then stopped. Plugged it in, and it went again. Any idea what this connecter is?

That’s correct.

Yeah about right. But remember I can double the capacity from the four batts I have if I needed more, can fit another four in the empty slots. I’m at minimum batts.

So did 4km and battery went from 98% to 85%....

Might be a while - we have a short drive up a very steep hill, doesn’t do much else apart from that. All I can tell you is it uses 5% of battery to do that round trip of 1k - using that logic range would be 20k’s, but it would obviously be using more to pull a family and shopping up the hill than one person going down the hill, even with regen. I’ve got a 3k flat-ish circuit where we live, might try that. Just fitted the Allion battery gauge, so can finally see the proper state of batt charge and amps being pulled.

No, that’s what I’m getting - but original Discover batts never even got to 400a. 2 kids, 2 adults…it’s a squeeze but it’s only for about 5 mins from water to top of island we live on.