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2008 joiner renegade t4 800cc


Newfietrucker

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hello,first time here trying this.

i have a 2008 R4 joiner renegade 800cc. the problem i'm having is.one day i started it and noticed that the gas guage, oil pressure and water temp didn't work.like the guage showing what it was when it was warm the other day.stuck in one spot. gauge won't go back to normal.i don't think 3 guages will give out at same time.fan stays on when i start it. i took off a ground wire from main shutoff and put a test light to it and it had power to it. a ground wire.i traced wire back to gas guage and gas pump.i even unhooked computer,looked at it,good. the 2 ground wires by computer.one wire had power. didn't make since.can't find any wires bad.i put test light to gas tank wire one had little power. if i hook everything up the way it was it seems to work fine when i start it.can't seem to get guages to work. thinking computer might be bad.can anyone help.not sure what to do. plus can't find ant wire to hook to a tester.need heop. tks.

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hello, having trouble with my joiner. had 3 guages stop working at same time.gas,temp,and oil psi.checked power and was good.one day i noticed fan came on and stay on when started.checked some wires, one wire that was ground that was hooked to main shut off had power to it.traced wire back to gas pump and gas tank guage. gas tank power had little power with test light. i unhook computer looked at fuse box, looked ok.2 ground wires for computer, put test light on them and found one had power to it.didn't make since.might try a guage tomorrow to see if it works.not sure if computer might be bad. can't hook to a computer, can't find a conector nowhere.front or back.what to do, need help. tks.

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Hi Newfietrucker,

Welcome to the forum.

Would you please fill out your profile so we can all get to know you a little better, who knows, maybe your just around the corner from someone who can help. I moved your post that was in the Pinned technical to here, that's why it looks like a double post.

It sounds to me like you lost a fuse, If you don't have a manual with a wiring diagram, you can get it from www.jmcmotors.us,

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Check all wire connectors by unpluging them and repluging them in. Also check the connection into the computer. I had one of the pins on mine push it to the plug body enough so it couldn't make a connection. Check your main grounds and make sure the engine is well grounded and well as the frame. Don't depend on the engine mounts to do it. The ground lead for the engine should come directly from the battery as well as the frames. Thats two ground leads going to the battery. I wouldn't be looking at the computer yet. Also ground the external box of the computer. I had a problem once and that solved it.

Lenny

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Tks for the reply. I unpluged all conectors and replug. Still the same. There's a ground wire that was at the main shutoff switch. I unhooked it and found power to it. I lose power to gauges at this time till I hook it back up. Traced wire to fuel pump and gas tank. With key on I put test light to fuel pump. It had power on both wires. Not sure if it suppose to. Another thing when I unhooked the 2 ground wires at computer I found power on a wire there. Don't make since. Unplug computer and replug it. Still the same. Checking the wires from front to back and still can't figure it out. If I had put everything back together the way it was. I could start it and drive away. Seems to work fine. Just that the 3 gauges won't work. Bad thing if something happens I wouldn't know. Can't figure where a short would be. Still thinking it might be in computer. Took cover off computer and looked at it. It looked ok. Puzzled. What do u think. Tks.

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do you have the schematic? if you look at the power for all the gauges, it comes from the key switch as ign2 or 2nd gear on some schematics, check to see if you have power to the + of the gauge and that you don't have it to the - of the gauge. Where you have power on the ground like you stated, it means that the ground wire is loose, so the voltage is passing through the gauge and showing up on the ground. you might try using a brake light filament as your test light because it will pull enough current to power up your gauge. another test would be to put one end of you tester on + and then test the ground of you gauges, if it does not light, you definitely have a loose ground.

Another problem area is inside the fuse block, look at where the fuses plug in and see if any of the plastic appears to be melted nearly melted. You may want to pull the fuse block and look at the back side for discolored wires and connectors.

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I hooked up the ground wire again to battery then I checked power on gauges + had power. Then I put test light to power on gauge and checked the ground it had power too. I looked at the back of fuse box noticed the fuse wire for fan was burnt a little. Tested all fuses they had power. Noticed when I start it the fan comes on and stays on till I turn off key. I guess that's why the wire in fuse box burnt.

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did you get your problem fixed? On the trooper, the fan and fuel pump run for a few moments, then shuts off until you start and run continuously while the engine is running, If the renegade is supposed to be the same way, you may have a stuck or welded relay, swap the fuel and fan relays and see if that problem moves from one to the other.

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i hooked up the ground wire back to where it was at the master switch. i used tester at guages, tried power.it did, put tester to power then touched the ground tester lit up. the 3 guages are stuck in one spot and the hand won't move like gas show 1/4, oil show 65, temp show 190.would guages stop working like that.hands won't move.i replaced all relays and still same. when i turn it on and not start the fan and fuel pump will start then go off. when i start renegade fan and pump will come on and stay on. a wire in fuse box for fan is burnt and fuse was milted a bit, replaced fuse. fuse gets hot because fan stays on when started. traced a lot of wires they look good. hard to figure out.

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You are going to have to get a wiring schematic and track each wire. I don't remember if the signals from the speed sensor and tack sensor go to the computer and then the computer sends the signal to the gauges or not. Maybe just start with the gas gauge, thaat should be simple. I beleive that the gas level sensor in the gas tank provides the ground for the gas gauge. The gas gauge has 12 volts that goes to it when the ignition is turned on. There is also a wire from the gague to the ground but I beleive this is only for the ground side of the gauge light. There may be another 12 volt wire for the gauge light or it may share the other 12 volts already going to the gauge. The gauge looks to the pickup in the gas tank for grounding the gauge indicating circuit. The pick up in the tank is like a variable resistor which provides more and more access to the ground as the float moves in the tank. You should be able to run a wire directly from the tank to the ground side of the gauge. If the gauge is getting 12 volts, it should read your fuel level. Forget everything else and just get the gauge working for now. You should be able to make the gauge work by running some temperary wiring. If it does work this way, then track its wiring to see why it isn't otherwise. My guess is that when you find the fuel gauge problem and correct it, the other gauges will start to work too. Its a simple circuit, battery to gauge, gauge to gas tank pickup. gas tank pickup provides a variable ground for the gauge. If you have to, take the gauge out and bring it to the gas tank and wire it in right there. The gas gauge has nothing to do with the computer at all. You have a loose, broken or shorted wire someplace, almost for sure, in your gas gauge circuit. More then likely, that loose, broken or shorted wire is effecting your other gauges too.

Lenny

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schematic is already attached, computer wiring isat the bottom of part, pieces & info, down load them and print them.

Just looked at the schematics, oil, fuel, water temperature, electric gauges definitely DO NOT have anything to do with the computer. Speed and tach signals do appear to come from the computer as a pulse width modulated signal on wire 66 (engine speed) and 39 (vehicle speed)

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The light do come on all gauges. I tried all I could think of to get them to work. Traced wires and all look good. I had the gas gauge to the tank to try to get it to work but still no luck. Crossed wires at gauge to see it would move. No luck either. Unless those 3 gauges gave out the same time. Would be strange. I did notice that the gauges had a air line crack on the back of them in the white plastic. I found a guy that has the same renagade as I do. And thinking of selling it at a good price. But I'm thinking of trying the gas gauge on his rig first to see it will work then.

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When you are checking the wires, are you just looking for a problem or are you checking them with a meter and looking for short to ground or an open wire? You should be able to run a hot wire to the hot side of the gauge and run another wire to the ground and it should move from empty to full. If it doesn't the gauge is bad. Hang in there, you will get it and learn a lot in the process. Good luck.

Lenny

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a full tank has 3 ohms to ground, empty has 110 ohms to ground, so if you just ground the wire to the fuel tank, the gauge will show full and hit the pin, 50 ohms will be near center.

Look at the part & pieces & info, there's schematics of the fuel sender unit for the early and later 2008 model troopers

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I made a new ground to gas float. And nothing happened but when I put my tester to the brown with black strip. The gas gauge moves to 1/2 full. So I got good power going to gauge, good ground, only get gauge to move when I touch the tester to the red wire at gas tank. Wish I could get someone to talk me through it. Could explain better.

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  • 3 months later...

Hello. Having trouble with speed gauge not working it cycles when key turns on but will not work when moving. I replaced fuel, oil pressure, and water temp. Because not working. All gauges work fine. Except oil gauge. When I turn key on oil temp go to bust. Not sure why. Everything seems to work fine except the 2 gauges. Tried switching wires. Still the same. Any idea? Tks.

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If you gas meter moves with the test light to ground, the gauge is probably good and the sender has opened up, you have to be able to read resistance from the output of the sender to ground, so you'll need an ohm meter, you can get a cheap one for under 10. I have autopsied a few gauges that I think had been wet and the insides runs and the magnets swell and freeze things up, so if they don't move, that may be the same story.

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